Weird, with the pan off I could see and feel the ends of the holes, especially the one on the right side, in fact there was a glob of sludge I brushed off. But anyhoo it has definitely fixed my weep around the bolt heads issue I had.
Pan Gasket
- Thread starter johnr9q@yahoo.com
- Start date
Weird, with the pan off I could see and feel the ends of the holes, especially the one on the right side, in fact there was a glob of sludge I brushed off. But anyhoo it has definitely fixed my weep around the bolt heads issue I had.
Werner
Well-known member
Tom,
https://translate.google.com/about/?hl=de
https://policies.google.com/?hl=dehttps://support.google.com/translate/?hl=dehttps://www.google.com/about?hl=de
That's right, cork gaskets do "seed" a little, and that was intentional for their function. Before I switched to the lubricating oil industry, I worked in quality control at the Ford plant. For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Beispielsweise wurden in den 1970er Jahren die Korkventildeckeldichtungen für die V4- und V6-Motoren zunächst beidseitig mit Fett versehen.
For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets on the V-4 and V-6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Beispielsweise wurden in den 1970er Jahren die Korkventildeckeldichtungen der V4- und V6-Motoren zunächst beidseitig mit Fett versehen.
Because this proved cumbersome in rapid mass production, they were later coated only with talc during production. However, the routine inspection procedure still specified grease fitting. Rubber gaskets were also used briefly. They didn't work well with the additives in the new heavy-duty oil grades. The gaskets first swelled up, then became brittle and leaked. On a slightly different note: Incidentally, the leaf springs in the factory hall were also coated with graphite and MoS2. Later, they were fitted with plastic inserts. Just briefly mentioned because it is very often recommended that leaf springs should not be lubricated.
Feedback geben
https://translate.google.com/about/?hl=de
https://policies.google.com/?hl=dehttps://support.google.com/translate/?hl=dehttps://www.google.com/about?hl=de
That's right, cork gaskets do "seed" a little, and that was intentional for their function. Before I switched to the lubricating oil industry, I worked in quality control at the Ford plant. For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Beispielsweise wurden in den 1970er Jahren die Korkventildeckeldichtungen für die V4- und V6-Motoren zunächst beidseitig mit Fett versehen.
For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets on the V-4 and V-6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Beispielsweise wurden in den 1970er Jahren die Korkventildeckeldichtungen der V4- und V6-Motoren zunächst beidseitig mit Fett versehen.
Because this proved cumbersome in rapid mass production, they were later coated only with talc during production. However, the routine inspection procedure still specified grease fitting. Rubber gaskets were also used briefly. They didn't work well with the additives in the new heavy-duty oil grades. The gaskets first swelled up, then became brittle and leaked. On a slightly different note: Incidentally, the leaf springs in the factory hall were also coated with graphite and MoS2. Later, they were fitted with plastic inserts. Just briefly mentioned because it is very often recommended that leaf springs should not be lubricated.
Feedback geben
Werner
Well-known member
Tom,
that's right, cork gaskets do "seed" a little, and that was intentional for their function. Before I switched to the lubricating oil industry, I worked in quality control at the Ford plant. For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Because this proved cumbersome in rapid mass production, they were later coated only with talc during production. However, the routine inspection procedure still specified grease fitting.
Rubber gaskets were also used briefly. They didn't work well with the additives in the new HD oil grades. The gaskets first swelled up, then became brittle and leaked. -
On a slightly different note:
Incidentally, the leaf springs in the factory mounting hall were also coated with graphite and MoS2. Later, they were fitted with plastic inserts.
Just briefly mentioned because it is very often recommended that leaf springs should not be lubricated.
that's right, cork gaskets do "seed" a little, and that was intentional for their function. Before I switched to the lubricating oil industry, I worked in quality control at the Ford plant. For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Because this proved cumbersome in rapid mass production, they were later coated only with talc during production. However, the routine inspection procedure still specified grease fitting.
Rubber gaskets were also used briefly. They didn't work well with the additives in the new HD oil grades. The gaskets first swelled up, then became brittle and leaked. -
On a slightly different note:
Incidentally, the leaf springs in the factory mounting hall were also coated with graphite and MoS2. Later, they were fitted with plastic inserts.
Just briefly mentioned because it is very often recommended that leaf springs should not be lubricated.
Very true.
Have you found drops of oil dripping from the oil pan bolts ( over entire side of oil pan front to rear of oil pan) on oil pump side of engine, after sealing the bolts as mentioned above?
Oil will drip from these 1/2 inch oil pan bolts IF oil leaks from the front timing gear cover!
The engine tilts 3 degrees toward the rear so oil runs down side of oil pan (from front to rear).
There are TWO places where oil leaks originate from.
1. From the 7 bolts on FRONT of timing cover (one bolt is hidden in recess near generator mounting bolt)
2. Also the two bolts which hold the small SIDE timing cover on.
SEALING threads as mentioned above will cure this problem.
Last edited:
CT Jack
Well-known member
A helpful tip when installing the pan. Take 2 or 3 #5 sholder screws 1-1/2" long and cut the heads off and install one midpoint on each side of block mounting surface. These will be used as guide pins for precisely locating the pan. Install the rear gasket with your favorite sealant. Place a thin film of sealant on the pan mounting surface and place the pan gasket on top. Then apply a thin film of sealant either to the top of the gasket or the mounting surface on the block. Raise the pan, align it with the 2 locating pins, raise into position, and install pan bolts.
ModelA29
Well-known member
Big hammer
Well-known member
X-2 , reusable many times if you don’t over toque the bolts !
1crosscut
Well-known member
When it comes to sealing the threads of bolts that penetrate into the block I have always used Indian Head shellac. Works very well and doesn't have nearly as much potential to create a blob on the end of the bolt inside of the block that then could break free and cause issues with oil passages.
I also use the shellac to seal both side of the paper gaskets on the timing gear covers and water pump.
For the valve cover I use the Indian Head shellac to stick a cork gasket to the valve cover but leave the face of the gasket to the block dry so it can be removed easily.
On the pan I use a cork gasket with no sealant except a dab of RTV at the ends of the gaskets where they join at the rear main and on the ends of the rope gaskets at the front.
For the cork gasket that goes into the grove on the rear main cap I put a thin coat of the shellac in the grove and allow it to get very tacky before placing the cork gasket into the grove. This helps keep the gasket from pulling free while placing the pan into place.
Sometimes this gasket is a bugger to get into the grove. I routinely place this gasket into my bench vice and squeeze it firmly and then quickly put it into the grove. Works well for me.
If using the Indian Head shellac on the paper gaskets you will have a thin bead of it squeeze out after tightening things up. Resist the urge to wipe it off as it will smear all over your nice new paint job. Instead wait a couple of days to allow it to dry and then using a sharp object it will scrape off easily.
I also use the shellac to seal both side of the paper gaskets on the timing gear covers and water pump.
For the valve cover I use the Indian Head shellac to stick a cork gasket to the valve cover but leave the face of the gasket to the block dry so it can be removed easily.
On the pan I use a cork gasket with no sealant except a dab of RTV at the ends of the gaskets where they join at the rear main and on the ends of the rope gaskets at the front.
For the cork gasket that goes into the grove on the rear main cap I put a thin coat of the shellac in the grove and allow it to get very tacky before placing the cork gasket into the grove. This helps keep the gasket from pulling free while placing the pan into place.
Sometimes this gasket is a bugger to get into the grove. I routinely place this gasket into my bench vice and squeeze it firmly and then quickly put it into the grove. Works well for me.
If using the Indian Head shellac on the paper gaskets you will have a thin bead of it squeeze out after tightening things up. Resist the urge to wipe it off as it will smear all over your nice new paint job. Instead wait a couple of days to allow it to dry and then using a sharp object it will scrape off easily.
Werner
Well-known member
Guten Abend, Dave.
Are we talking about the same material?
You wrote "Indian Head shellac." Here, we only know shellac as a way to finish wood surfaces. It's an old, dying craft, used, for example, on particularly expensive pianos.
It's cochineal dissolved in alcohol and very thin, like water. It's applied in several layers, with long drying times between each layer, and polished layer by layer.
Using the lacquer for sealing? That's completely new to me. Did I understod right?
Are we talking about the same material?
You wrote "Indian Head shellac." Here, we only know shellac as a way to finish wood surfaces. It's an old, dying craft, used, for example, on particularly expensive pianos.
It's cochineal dissolved in alcohol and very thin, like water. It's applied in several layers, with long drying times between each layer, and polished layer by layer.
Using the lacquer for sealing? That's completely new to me. Did I understod right?
1crosscut
Well-known member
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
I am struggling with the cork seal at the rear main bearing cap. I have soaked it in water and that must be making it springy and hard to squeeze into its groove in the cap. Currently, I have it drying in my vise to narrow it.
Any other tips?
It was easier the other two times I installed it.
Any other tips?
It was easier the other two times I installed it.
I soak mine in hot water, then let it dry inside of an empty quart yogurt/sour cream container, that's just about the right diameter.