pan gasket and babbet adjustment

1928Pickuppain

1928Pickuppain

Senior Member
This week i plan on pulling my oil pan to fix a massive oil leak i pulled it two years ago to remove sludge and was never able to put a new rear gasket on while working on the grownd. i am (hopefuly) going to use a buddies lift to change the pan gasket. While i have the pan off i want to adjust the bearings can you guys give me a quick how to rundown. like what do i use for a feeler guage to find out how much of a tolerance i need to have between the bearing cap and crank shaft ect, just a general step by step rundown i have not done this before.
 
I just watched my friends the other night replace 4 piston rods. You cut a small piece of the plastigage and lay it across the cap. Then tighten up the castle nuts to 35 ft. lbs. Then remove the nuts and cap. take the wrapper and compare the different size marking to the squashed plastic on the cap. Make sure that you wipe all the oil off the crank before you start .
 
The foil method will be easier to do "in the chassis", no need to worry about the weight of the crank and flywheel, and the interpation of the readings is simple --crank turns, crank doesn't turn
 
I agree with Kurt, in car I'd use the foil method, and with the engine upside down on a stand I'd use the plastigage.

Soak the cork seal in warm water for a few minutes, then you can curve it and tuck it into the rear bearing cap groove. Be sure to glue the side seals in place first since the cork should fit over the ends of the side seals. On the front I cut a curve into the side seal to fit around the rope seal. You may have to trim the cork if it's too long. I put a dab of silicone gasket selaer in each of the 4 corners.

I always install the front rope seal dry and fit it to shape by tapping a socket (the same size as the pulley surface) into the rope to shape it. I allow plenty of rope seal to allow for the side gasket thickness, plus some to squeeze tight when the pan is bolted up, but I still have to trim some off the ends. I then oil the rope and smear a lot of grease on it to prevent a dry start.
 
Ok guys thanks for the advice i have hurd of the aluminum foil method but forget what its about so a quick run though of the aluminum foil method w ill be good too. thanks guys
 
Cut a strip of foil and fold it in two so you have a double layer. Use a micrometer to measure the thickness, then place it in the cap and bolt it up. If the foil is .001" thickness, then remove shims (evenly side to side) until you can no longer turn the crank with the foil installed. Once the foil is removed the crank should turn and have .001" clearance. Ideally you want about .001" to .0015" clearance.
 
Just a thought.

The tin foil thickness has been getting thinner in some cases. The quick way to adapt to increasing commodity prices is to reduce how much they give you.

My wife has some foil she got that was so thin it would not wrap bowls nicely.

So we can not assume the stuff we get from the store is what it used to be.
 
There are innumberable posts on Plastigage, foil and pan installation, more than you want. Hit the Search function.
 
Tom - I will be doing the foil method soon, and I have the procedure on file. What is not clear is the width and length the piece of foil should be. I have seen multiple dimensions printed.

I was wondering if you could tell me the foil dimensions you use when applying this method of clearance adjustment.

Thanks, Ron/IA
 
Ron/IA said:
Tom - I will be doing the foil method soon, and I have the procedure on file. What is not clear is the width and length the piece of foil should be. I have seen multiple dimensions printed.

I was wondering if you could tell me the foil dimensions you use when applying this method of clearance adjustment.

Thanks, Ron/IA
Click to expand...

Size doesn't matter, just the thickness.
 
I fold a piece of alum foil several times until its .002 & about 1/2" wide & width of brg & lay it in cap & tighten it up.If crank wont turn with hand crank,then adjustment is OK with foil removed.
 
Kurt & Tom, what is the reason for the tin foil? If you still have to bolt the cap up, torque it and take it down, why not just use plastigage when the engine is in the car?
 
Ed Saniewski said:
Kurt & Tom, what is the reason for the tin foil? If you still have to bolt the cap up, torque it and take it down, why not just use plastigage when the engine is in the car?
Click to expand...
Ed. you can use plasti-guage on the rods in or out of the car. Mains are done with the foil in the car because of the weight of the flywheel. The mains can be done with plasti-guage with the motor out of the car and pan rails up.

I also do the gasket like Tom except I don't soak the cork main seal or trim the rail gaskets at the front seal.
 
Ed Saniewski said:
Kurt & Tom, what is the reason for the tin foil? If you still have to bolt the cap up, torque it and take it down, why not just use plastigage when the engine is in the car?
Click to expand...

I have used plstigage while the engine is in the car, but then I need to jack UP on the crankshaft, so it's tight to the upper bearing, otherwise the weight of the flywheel and crankshaft will squish the plastigage and give a false reading.

The foil method gives a mechanical lock-up when the clearance is too small, thus the removal of foil gives a good clearance of .001" to .002".
 
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