Painting with Rustoleum?

Brad Hole

Brad Hole

Member
Has anyone had any luck using Rustoleum paint for the exterior? I used it to paint the bed of my tow truck last year, but this year I'm replacing a lot of sheet metal in the front end and need to repaint the cab as well. The color that I found was nearly an exact match to the "original" color of the truck, so if it's possible I would like to stick with it. I'm on a fairly tight budget, so if possible I'd like to avoid paying for automotive paint (the color is Regal Red, and of course red has to be the expensive paint color).

So...does anyone have any tips, tricks, thoughts, or alternative ideas? They have the paint both as enamel and in a rattle can. I know it won't be the shiniest paint in the world, but I'm not looking for a mirror finish on it. I plan on clear-coating over the top, and then polishing/waxing it as need be (usually I'll buff it a few times a year and wax before a show).

I know it won't be a "forever" paint and I don't expect it to have the same quality as regular automotive paint, but if it lasts me long enough to be able to afford a better, complete restoration, then I'm all for it.
 
I have paint a bunch of stuff with it. One trick is use acetone to thin it. It drys very fast so you have to keep thinning it. Dont worrie about orange peel. I go back and wet sand it then buff it starting with heavy duty compound.

It looks ok for awhile but it will get dull and chalky.

All the the professional painters will give you a million reasons not to do it.

Its perfect for a budget and its easy to touch up.


Sometime if it blinds the sandpaper you need to let it dry a couple more days. Park it in the sun
 
Don't see any problem with painting to your satisfaction using Rustoleum BUT Rustoleum is an enamel type paint and takes a long time, if ever, to fully cure/dry.
Putting catalyzed clear coat (if that's what you are planning on doing) over it may or may not present a problem.
 
I suspect if you clear coat it chances are it may not get dull and oxidize. Use Rustoleum clear.
 
The acetone, it will be dry in less then 8hr. If you use mineral spirits maybe a week. Makes a big difference
 
skidmarks said:
It looks ok for awhile but it will get dull and chalky.
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How long do you classify as "awhile?" Just out of curiosity. I'd like for it to last me for a few years if I'm lucky without any major repainting needed. If I'm lucky, that is (I doubt I will be)
 
And I suppose I should have described my plan a bit better in the original post.

I plan on using a hardner with it - Valspar 4625 as I have used it on a few of my hit and miss engines is the past and it seemed to cure the "never-dry/hard" problem of using enamel paint.
I also plan on using an HVLP gun to paint it, as the desired effect should be much better than brushing or rolling the paint on.

I'm hoping the CC may help to alleviate some of the fade/chalking that comes along, but I guess only time - or experience - can tell
 
The hardner will help. Keep it inside out the sun and weather will help. Cant really give you a time frame on it fading or getting chalky.

Clear coat will help to
 
There were some threads on the HAMB awhile back on painting cars with Rustoleum ... results were generally pretty good. One thread was on painting a car with Rustoleum using hot dog rollers ....
 
I have painted a lot of trailer/truck bodies/ and a 48 F1 with rustoleum, use enamel reducer not anything else and depending on temp of where you are spraying there are varying types of this product. I have added hardener. the 48 looks great for a cheap paint job and still shines after 5 years. I also use tractor paint from tractor supply, their reducer and their hardener with good results
 
One thing not mentioned is that when you decide to repaint it with automotive paint you will probably have to strip the Rustolum off.

Charlie Stephens
 
I painted a '48 Jeep CJ2 with tan (sand) color rustoleum and it came out fairly well and was a durable finish. No noticible change after a year or so, always garaged. Have since sold the Jeep so can't answer for longer than that. I did the hood with rattle cans and brushed the rest of the body. Brush marks still showed in the body but not too apparent in that color. The hood came out pretty good. No reducers used and paint applied over a bead blasted body with epoxy primer underneath. Jeeps had farm equipment type finishes from the factory, so the patina of the RO paint looked ok to my eye and also good to the eventual buyer who was taking it to a hunt camp.


RO is sure a lot cheaper than automotive class A finishing. I still use a lot of their black on appropriate parts for my phaeton. Good luck with your project.
 

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I've used Rustoleum on under car parts where it is out of direct sunlight with good results.
Painted suspension on my '41 23 yrs ago and still looked good & cheap to repaint if necessary. I used satin black.
 
Painted the underside of the floor on my AV8 with black rustoleum, came out nice and is still looking good, I thinned it and sprayed in with a gun.
 
What else would you paint a truck with? :) I've used it for 40 years. Yes it gets dull, especially the red. I often use corn starch or talc added to the rustoleum to speed this process up. No, I have never played like the other kids, but in the last ten years 'patina' has gotten cool. If you want your rustoleum paint job to stay shiney, just park it indoors when not in use. It is a really high quality enamel compared to the cheaper 'off brands'. End of rant.
 
I painted my coupe with Rustoleum Charleston Green right out of the can! It's almost identical to the original Vineyard Green. Just remember, I was going for a finish that looked like it was in a field for 40 years.
 

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jrvariel48 said:
I painted my coupe with Rustoleum Charleston Green right out of the can! It's almost identical to the original Vineyard Green. Just remember, I was going for a finish that looked like it was in a field for 40 years.
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That looks good!
 
I use Rustoleum when painting the frame all the time. Use one quart of gloss and one quart of dull. Mix them together and a very nice Simi gloss that perfect and easy to touch up. I have done this for years. Try this and you will love it!
 
Use it all the time . Acetone for a flat older looking paint job , Japan drier with naphtha as thinner for a shiny faster than normal drying time . Acetone is the fastest but ...
 
Well; Out West the stores are sell WATER Based Rustoleum... It is Junk... painted a trailer with it and it wants to flake off a year later. Read the can!!!! Newc
 
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