Painting SS Radiator Shell

[Doug in NJ]

Hello,

My '31 radiator shell has the non-insert stainless steel bottom panel. Does anyone have advice on how to paint the stainless so that the paint won't easily scrape off?

Also, will the upper (plain steel) insert look right if it is painted satin, like the Paint and Refinish Guide says?

Thanks,
Doug

 

[Bob V]

Mask it off and lightly sand blast with fine sand the area you want it paint. Primer and paint will never come off. Duct tape or rubber tape are needed for masking since the sand will eat right through paper masking tape.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Hello,

My '31 radiator shell has the non-insert stainless steel bottom panel. Does anyone have advice on how to paint the stainless so that the paint won't easily scrape off?

Also, will the upper (plain steel) insert look right if it is painted satin, like the Paint and Refinish Guide says?

Thanks,
Doug

Actually, it looks very stunning. These pix are hard to tell due to the size but I chose them to see the difference between the two Brewster Green gloss levels.

.

 

[Doug in NJ]

Actually, it looks very stunning. These pix are hard to tell due to the size but I chose them to see the difference between the two Brewster Green gloss levels.

.

Thanks for posting the photos! You also answered my next question, which was: On the radiator emblem, do both the lettering and the outside oval get painted black?

For painting the emblem, can I be sort of generous with the paint, and then wipe off any excess from the non-recessed areas?

Doug

 

[Doug in NJ]

Mask it off and lightly sand blast with fine sand the area you want it paint. Primer and paint will never come off. Duct tape or rubber tape are needed for masking since the sand will eat right through paper masking tape.

That's what I did for the plain steel top insert. After sanding and buffing the shell as a whole, I used "Gorilla Tape: to cover the stainless right up to the edge of the insert, and I carefully bead-blasted the insert. It worked fine.

"Gorilla Tape" is like duct tape on steriods. Very nice stuff. It's from the same people who sell "Gorilla Glue".

Doug

 

[Logan]

Stainless steel: take a grey or red scotch brite and scuff the crap out of it, no shiny at all. Then get an etching primer that you can directy put a finish coat of paint on top of or direct to metal primer and prime the area. Then 400 grit or grey scotch brite the primed area and shoot your paint on top of it. I've done a few this way, and it has worked for me.

 

[Doug in NJ]

I painted my emblem (after polishing it) by spraying it with black epoxy spray paint, and wiping off the excess. I am pretty pleased with how it came out.
Less work than I expected!

Doug

 

[Ed Saniewski]

Doug, was the black paint from a rattle can,or a spray gun? Thanks Ed Saniewski

 

[Doug in NJ]

Doug, was the black paint from a rattle can,or a spray gun? Thanks Ed Saniewski

The paint was rattle-can: Eastwood Extreme gloss black epoxy chassis paint.
Certainly no need for a real spray gun. You could probably even slop some paint on it with a Q-tip, and shake off the excess.

I wiped the majority of the extra paint off right after spraying, and after a couple of hours I used a cloth moistened with acetone to get the rest off.

These '31 emblems were never like a fancy porcelain style: the paint is nowhere near thick enough to be flush with the surface.

Doug

 

[Ed Saniewski]

Thanks, mine is starting to look a little ratty, this gives me a little incentive to fix it up. Ed Saniewski

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

This is one of those areas where sometimes I get criticized for being a 'purist' in restoration but may I suggest that y'all look at an original emblem first and study the paint depth, the textures, and the sheen.

I do agree that paint with a paint brush would accomplish getting paint onto the emblem but with the same effort, the emblem can be cleaned and then a light coat of Black lacquer can be sprayed where it will look just like it originally did. It is my opinion the "rattle can" paint job will last another 30-40 years with one, or maybe a second coat quickly applied to fill-in the script lettering. The intent is to make the mil thickness as small as possible as this promotes adhesion. Then once it is almost dry, use lacquer thinner on a paper towel (not a cloth rag) to wipe/rub the edges to provide the clean crisp edges around the script.

On the edges of the shell inserts, when you study the procedure of how it was sprayed originally there was a template used that did not create a crisp edge, but instead was a feathered edge. This can be mimicked several ways but one is to use 1/8" layout tape to first define the edge and then move a tad closer towards the area to be painted using 1/2" tape with one side rolled up allowing the paint to be softened on the edges. We actually use a small -core sticky foam on a roll that is used when quickie-shops are taping up cars for paint and want to keep the paint out of the door jamb area.