Painting Engine While IN Car

[sethkestenbaum]

What tips/tricks have folks used when painting/touching up engines that are in service. I REFUSE to remove the engine from my car or take it apart but also refuse to let the bars leak stains (noted in a prior post) remain on them. Thoughts?

 

[CarlG]

Clean it good, wire brush it, get a can of engine paint from Bert's and a cheap brush at Home Depot and have a ball!

 

[Fullraceflathead]

I did mine while in car. I used spray on engine degreasers several times and a soft bristle brush. Rinse with garden hose several times. Once I could no longer see any grease buildup I sprayed all surfaces with simple green and rinsed with water two more times. I then dried everything off with compressed air. Once all surfaces were dry I masked off areas I did not want painted Rock Moss green and started spray painting. Once dry I masked off the freshly painted surfaces and began to spray paint the items that are gloss black. My engine turned out very well for not being removed from my truck. The detail is in the masking/ preparation and all surfaces must be Grease and oil free.

 

[larrys40]

Seth,

If the engine is in the car I prefer using the brush method on the cast iron surfaces. You can clean the entire engine compartment... frame, firewall, and engine areas with GOJO creme ( NOn pumice) hand cleaner. it's amazing how it will clean up the grease, oil, grime, is easy on the paint and does an excellent job. if you need to use a soft paint brush to get the nooks and cranny's. wipe it down good... a little water and a towel on the engine to wipe away any residue stuff and you're ready to paint. If your head nuts are plated you can use masking tape around them to tape them off... and use a foam brush or smaller 1-inch paint brush on the engine areas. trying to spray paint is a mess and hazard to everything surrounding and not as controllable as the brush method at least for in the car. You can also use this for the frame area, crossmember etc to clean things up. If you want to replace the head nuts you can do them one at a time..... just know there's risk in doing that. Stud breakage...retorque, etc. If the manifolds need surfaced or other service done it's the perfect time./ Also removing the starter and generator on makes for a nicer job as well. You can check them out while off as well making sure brushes, drive, etc are good. Service as required.
Best of luck.

Larry Shepard

 

[Mitch//pa]

use a brush and not a spray can or youll have overspray all over your car..
i guess you figured out its best to get the car running good first and flowed before adding additives..
thats how we learn no big deal
this should be your biggest problem

 

[sethkestenbaum]

The good news is that everything is fairly clean to start. The engine was rebuilt recently and the stains occurred when I had the cap off the radiator (so I could monitor the temp with a thermometer during engine break-in). The in-line thermostat opened and the pressure of the flow was more than I had anticipated. I had not yet put the hood back on the car so when the coolant "fountained" out of the open radiator, it poured over everything including the fan blade which splattered it all over the place. I'll likely leave the studs/nuts/etc all on the car (for now).

 

[duke36]

Many of the engine paints are formulated to go on thin, so just brush on the minimum to get coverage. The engine running is supposed to cure the paint. I've used a thin piece of cardboard, etc. to mask as I proceed and sometimes a long handle artist brush helps to get at tough areas. Also mix completely as the pigments settle out , so that future touch up will be consistent. If you want to do more detailing (engine in car), a small Badger or other brand airbrush is great for black surfaces.

 

[30ccpickup]

Clean it well, rough it up bit, use a degreaser, paint or bush, take your time. I am sure it will turn out nicer then if it was hired out, just in the fact it is yours and you will do your best. It is a minner "live and learn" compared to some of my "what was I thinking"

Paul

 

[WestCoast]

aluminum foil is great for masking off parts you don't want painted, quicker than masking paper and tape

 

[glenn in camino]

The next time someone asks, did you restore that yourself? you can proudly say YES.

 

[Jim Mason]

Cover anything you don't want paint on...then paint everything that isn't covered. .like you didn't know that

 

[john hamilton]

A handy tip for masking off complex things like distributors or even that oil pipe is to wrap them in aluminum foil. Much easier than tape and very effective.

 

[sethkestenbaum]

I've got plenty of foil and masking tape. I was hoping for more tips such as "a bottle cap would cover X perfectly" or "be certain to not paint Y". As I plan to do a "frame off" full car paint job within the next 5 to 10 years, I am going to try to clean/scuff and act like this is just a second coat (as opposed to bringing the engine to bare metal and then etch/priming/painting as a professional painter would highly recommend).

I'm trying to also treat this incident as an opportunity. There is a local buxom artist with a steady hand. I've invited her to join for a "bikini optional engine painting party". I doubt she will take me up on the offer, but it would be rude if I didn't at least ask her.

The Hirsch paint is being ordered today and I plan to get started once the heatwave breaks.

 

[burner31]

Don't pop that first beer UNTIL your done.

 

[tinkirk]

so
you're saying that you have rust stains splattered around on fresh paint I'm assuming!
i would probably try a little snow bowl toilet bowl cleaner sparingly maybe with a rag first and try wiping it off should not heard the paint, if that works you can brush it on let sit for a little bit and then hose it off very good a couple times as long as there is no exposed aluminum
good luck

 

[sethkestenbaum]

not rust stains..... "liquid glass". This is silica crystal deposits that lock onto EVERYTHING permanently. They don't come off without a good scrubbing and the process of scrubbing damages the paint where the crystals do come off.

 

[Gil Sissons]

Recently I was dealing with stains on a recently rebuilt engine. I had very good results taking the spray can and spraying it into a small plastic cap....and then taking one of those foam on a stick things and dipping it into the paint to touch up the engine.
(foam thing on a stick ....from hoby shop).
No runs. No hits. No errors. Happy camper!
Gil NoCal

 

[bdave_mcc]

Don't pop that first beer UNTIL your done.

Good advice! haha.

 

[pgerhardt]

I did mine while in car. I used spray on engine degreasers several times and a soft bristle brush. Rinse with garden hose several times. Once I could no longer see any grease buildup I sprayed all surfaces with simple green and rinsed with water two more times. I then dried everything off with compressed air. Once all surfaces were dry I masked off areas I did not want painted Rock Moss green and started spray painting. Once dry I masked off the freshly painted surfaces and began to spray paint the items that are gloss black. My engine turned out very well for not being removed from my truck. The detail is in the masking/ preparation and all surfaces must be Grease and oil free.

The model A engine was NOT painted rock moss green (picture 1). Rock moss green is very dark close to black. Used along with vagabond green it was a common 1929 color combination (picture 2).

Bill Hirsh carries the correct Ford Green engine paint: http://www.hirschauto.com/ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EE-QUART/FOR%20GRN/

NOTE: The above link takes you to Hirsh engine paint page. You have to choose Ford Green from the drop down menu.

Also Eastwood has a cadmium plate simulation paint that you can use to freshen up your head nuts without replacing them. I used it on my rear axle (picture 3). They also have a "zinc oxide" paint that is a good match for the Ford "raven finish" used on many bolts (picture 4).

 

[30ccpickup]

Not advice, but it is just me. I pulled the head so there would be no paint on the head gasket. Looks more proper "like it really matters on my car" but it might on yours.