Painting bumper bolts and spacers

montanafordman

montanafordman

Well-known member
Hello everyone, I have a question about painting the bumper end bolts and spacers. I'm hoping for a simple and inexpensive solution just to paint the bolts and spacers but if there's a better way, or if something just wont hold up I'm all ears. Will rustoleum hold up ok? How about adhesion and UV resistance? Also what do you recommend to prep or etch the metal bolts and spacers? Thanks
 
Aaron, look at it from this perspective, ...if you are seeking a top-notch job, -you need to use top-notch methods & materials!

The next question is are you using repro bolts and spacers or original ones? Many repro bolts have a cadmium finish (...and an incorrect shape) that will affect longevity of paint adhesion. If you are using original hardware, how did you clean it?
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Aaron, look at it from this perspective, ...if you are seeking a top-notch job, -you need to use top-notch methods & materials!

The next question is are you using repro bolts and spacers or original ones? Many repro bolts have a cadmium finish (...and an incorrect shape) that will affect longevity of paint adhesion. If you are using original hardware, how did you clean it?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Brent. Perhaps I should give a little more detail on what I'm trying to accomplish. I have been going through the entire car and have rebuilt all the mechanicals in the chassis and will mostly leave no stone unturned in my amateur restoration. This is the first car I've done and at my age (34), budget, and time constraints my realistic expectation is to build a good solid driver with some decent attention to detail. I'm using the judging standards to get the correct finishes and parts whenever able and I would love to have an educated person such as yourself to look at what I've done and note that I've certainly made an attempt to put it together "right" and use original parts whenever possible and have the correct finish on the various hardware and parts. I'm not trying for blue ribbon (at this time) as I believe that is a little beyond my budget and ability at this time. I also plan to drive the wheels off it when I'm done. :D

Unfortunately I do not have original hardware for the bumpers and the cad finish was my concern with paint adhesion in conjunction with using the proper paint or how I should prep the metal. Since as you state the repro hardware doesn't have the correct shape I would love to put that on my list to correct "some day" but I also want to drive and enjoy the car, and since the bumpers are external and easily accessible/interchangeable that will probably go to the bottom of the priority list. My grandfather had the bumpers rechromed and when that was accomplished the back side was polished as well:o. So with that in mind I already know that is going to cost some to correct. Like I said considering the nature and location of bumpers and the ease of correcting after the car is completed its really last on my to do list for the car. I'd like to hang the bumpers I have on the chassis to get them out of the way for one, and they look fine to the uninformed and will suffice until I can find some other good originals (with hardware) and/or find a way to rechrome these and replicate the dull finish and mill scale on the back side.

With that in mind, I realize I have a lot of research and learning to do when it comes to (paint) materials available. I have some DP90 which is crazy expensive (in my mind) but am not even sure if it would have the right glossiness or need to be top coated, or if that is even the right stuff to use. I'd rather save the expensive stuff for when I plan to shoot paint on a few more things to make it worth my while to mix up $100 worth of paint. For a couple bolts that I might very well eventually change anyway rustoleum or another simple/inexpensive option would be great to fit the bill, but if its going to look terrible in 1 year after driving though a few rainstorms and a couple thousand miles I won't bother and I'll use something more durable. I appreciate any further advice! :)
 
The spacers from snyders are powdercoated. BRATTONS and some of the other suppliers are not so you need to ask. You can then spray rustoleum the bolt heads and nuts or even pc them at a pc shop.
 
Spray rustolium on them and be done with it. If you were doing a frame off, but & bolt restoration I'd say use some quality single stage and get it done right. But you're not, so no need to waste a couple hours prepping and painting 6 bolts and spacers. I know lots of cars that have gone through judging with rattle canned end bolts and it's gone un noticed
 
Actually FWIW it is a frame off nut and bolt restoration...;) I'm not building a points car but I'm trying to follow the RG&JS and use as much original hardware and parts as possible. I have recently reassembled my chassis after powdercoat and am looking for options to reassemble my bumpers. Since they were polished on the backside however and I do not have original end bolts I'll probably do something like rustoleum just so I can put the bumpers on the car and address that after I finish the body/interior/fenders and have the car driving again. I'm more concerned about saving my money for paint and sheet metal work at this point than spending $500+ on correct bumpers when mine look fine for a driver. Its something that can be easily corrected later but I'd like whatever I use in the mean time to hold up.
 
Aaron,

I believe the originals were dipped , no primer etc . Honestly you're probably over thinking this and beating it up a little too much , paint them with a quality automotive black or rust oleum if you choose . If you choose to paint with automotive black enamel which is what I use you load a small touch up gun with a small amount and give them a couple of Coates.
If you using the repos I would blast or sand the cad finish off first for adhesion

Keep it simple... As this one really is
Larry s
 
larrys40 said:
Aaron,

I believe the originals were dipped , no primer etc . Honestly you're probably over thinking this and beating it up a little too much , paint them with a quality automotive black or rust oleum if you choose . If you choose to paint with automotive black enamel which is what I use you load a small touch up gun with a small amount and give them a couple of Coates.
If you using the repos I would blast or sand the cad finish off first for adhesion

Keep it simple... As this one really is
Larry s
Click to expand...

Perfect. That's pretty much the advice that I was looking for. I was mainly concerned rattle can paint would chip/flake off or fade in the sun in short order due to the exposure on the bumpers. Then again if it does its a simple fix to use something else.
 
I used Krylon Gloss Black Enamel 30 or so years ago on my 1929 Standard Coupe's original bolts and spacers and they still look good.

I agree with larrys40...you are beating yourself up over this.

Email me.

Pluck
 
I don't know what type of finish was on the original hardware, glossy, flat or satin. If satin is OK, I have used Rustoleum 7777 Satin Black for just about any black surface that I have needed. I don't have a Model A yet but have a '65 Corvair and '69 Kaiser M715 army truck. The Rustoleum paint dries slowly and stays soft for a while. It will chip like any other paint but it does not seem to flake off ... ever. And it is easy to find and the price is right ~$3-4 a can. I have used the Rustoleum Glossy Black also but where I needed black (usually automotive) it just looked too shiny. But again, the Model A may have come that way. I would never be ashamed of using Rustoleum paint.

And as mentioned above, Krylon has been around for decades and I have used that as well with excellent success. It too is available at places like Home Depot, Lowes and Wal Mart. Very reasonable in price too.
 
I find that the finish on the "new" hardware does not accept paint worth a hoot. What I do is use a piece of wire to dip the hardware in a 50/50 solution of Muratic acid and water. Usually takes less than a minute to strip them clean. If you have a several washers on a piece of wire jiggle them while in the solution and you can hear the tone of the jingle change from a dull note to a higher note when they are done. Like I said it only takes a short amount of time to strip them. Rinse well.
I like to warm my small parts with a propane torch just prior to painting. I think the paint sticks and lasts a long time doing this. Just remember warm not hot.
 
This works for a very durable finish.
1.Strip cad with muriatic acid and neutralize in a solution of water,clothes detergent and baking soda. Rinse with clear water and dry. ( Use acid strip out doors with face and hand protection!)
2. Sandblast. Aluminum oxide media will be better than glass beads.
3. Parkerize. Parkerizing solutions are available from gun suppliers. Easy to do. All you need is a hot plate and a stainless steel pot. A parkerized finish makes for the the greatest primer. The first coat of paint actually soaks in to the surface. The parkerizing is also very rust resistant. Neutralize with the same solution. Clear rinse and dry.
4. Ready for paint. Use Rustoleum gloss black 2X paint primer. Only two coats. More than two coats and you increase the chance of chips.
5. Let air dry for a couple of hours. Then bake in your kitchen oven for 1 hour @ 250 degrees. (Do this with adequate ventilation and with the Mrs. out shopping.)
6. Cool down in the oven. The next day your ready for assembly.
This method is only for the anal but works great.
 
Not familiar with repro bumper bolts, but other repro bolts I have been improving. This also works to make rusty or buggered over heads look presentable.

Using a battery powered drill I chuck the fastener up and use a file to adjust the shape.
The I use various grit papers to dress up the head.
The sandpaper leaves a little scratch to give the paint something to attach to the head.

Rustoleum has been used on a number of high points cars. So do not discount its use. The problem with Rustoleum is how long it takes to get fairly hard.
 
Etching the finish of new hardware would certainly help the paint to adhere. And using the oven to dry is an excellent idea. I only have cats living with me now, no wife or significant other so using the oven is not a problem ;)
 
Baking freshly-painted items (those that are small enough to fit in the oven) is a great idea. I do it whenever possible. An hour of baking is as good as a month of room-temperature curing. Just let the paint dry for a couple of hours at room temperature, until most of the solvents have evaporated, and don't rest the items on the oven racks, or the paint will get marked, or maybe stick to the racks.

I am sure the factory did this a lot: time is money.

Doug
 
harleytoprock said:
This works for a very durable finish.
1.Strip cad with muriatic acid and neutralize in a solution of water,clothes detergent and baking soda. Rinse with clear water and dry. ( Use acid strip out doors with face and hand protection!)
Click to expand...

I think that most of the "cadmium" on repro hardware is actually zinc. But muriatic acid takes it off in a flash.

Painting zinc-plated parts is a waste of time: the paint is guaranteed to fall off.

Doug
 
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