Paint suggestions

Most old cars have silicone in the pores of the metal. This will cause "fisheyes" if the primer and preventer is not effective. All paint and primers should be from the same manufacturer. We did my '47 convertible with color coat/clear coat material. As discussed above, isocyanate paint is poisonous, The cyanate is cyanide, and requires special protective gear. This type of paint is not a "back yard" material. Unless your car isn't worth the investment, I'd find a professional to do the job.
 
I will second Sherwin Williams. I used a custom color match for my rims & the price for a QT was $20.00. Single stage ,easy to use & good gloss.
Check out their farm & machinery line. first pic was the tire just laying on the rim to see what it would look like.
When the time comes I will use it to paint this car. The black now is just the jell coat.
 

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Fibber, if your going to bare metal be sure you use a 2 part catylist primer first before any bodywork. And as we all say.. fresh air, exhaust, and squeaky clean everything will get nice results. good luck
 
Now that I have my new compressor and paint gun it's time to buy the paint. Does anyone know the PPG paint code for Cayuga Blue?
 
Fans, filters, garage door closed, open, inside, outside.....whatever...

You can never spend "too much" for a respirator.... nuff' said
 
Fibber, if you're going down to bare metal you'll want to apply epoxy primer first. A quart which will not do the whole car is around $100. They will help you out at the store with everything you need including matching the color.
 
waterboychuck said:
Fibber, if you're going down to bare metal you'll want to apply epoxy primer first. A quart which will not do the whole car is around $100. They will help you out at the store with everything you need including matching the color.
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I'm going to go to metal and I'm going to try and get all the right paints. Right now I'm trying to find a PPG paint Store in my area and then time to go there.
 
I just painted a pickup, inside and out, less the bed. Used PPG single stage and I used 1.5 gal.

Hope you can do your car with a gal, but would like to hear about it if you can. Maybe I'm doin' something wrong...

Thanks, Gordon
 
I have used summit racing epoxy primer and there high build primer on my last three cars. Very happy with results. I used ppg base coat clear coat over top. There prices are very reasonable, and very fast shipping. I have also used ppg concept single stage over these primer.
 
malpais said:
I just painted a pickup, inside and out, less the bed. Used PPG single stage and I used 1.5 gal.

Hope you can do your car with a gal, but would like to hear about it if you can. Maybe I'm doin' something wrong...

Thanks, Gordon
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Your not doing anything wrong as long as you are satisfied with the results.
Coverage is based on many things. Type of gun. Air pressure. Gun tip size. Color of paint. etc....... Mixing ratios are just a guideline as well. I find that I generally use less reducer than is recommended. So that gallon does not always go as far as is stated.
I will be doing a pick up truck inside and out as well as the bed and I am planning on 2 gallons.
I have been painting since the 70's and we used to allow 1 gallon for a complete paint job as long as it wasn't a color change and we didn't have to cut in the doors. Under the hood and trunk and so forth.
Torchie.
 
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Torchie,

Thanks for shairing your experience. I painted a little as a kid with a bad air source (actually hooked to a natural gas line on our oil well, believe it or not) and a bad gun.

This time I bought a good DeVilbiss HVLP gun, compressor with air filters and drier.

Cause I'm not skilled at painting, got some "dry" spots and some orange peel, but per excellent advice on Ford barn, put enuf on to color sand out these issues.

Just hope Fibber can paint a whole car with a gallon. Maybe he's using tinted primer like I've
read about.

Gordon
 
51 MERC-CT said:
Find the term "back in the 70's" to be amusing ( to me that's like yesterday ) I also lean towards single stage urethane and think that Imron is overkill.
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X2 The amount of color to have available is based on many factors. The least of which is what somebody else used to paint their car. Any color can be a poor hider sometimes requiring a specific tinted sealer or additional coats or both. The rate of reduction and number of coats according to the product information sheet is critical. Trying to outguess the paint maker is asking for expensive trouble. This isn't the time to choke up over the cost of materials. It's best to have some color left for future use.
Dirt, bugs and airflow will be the challenges.
 
I contacted a PPG dealer today and gave him the Ford codes and the PPG codes and he couldn't find the Cayuga Blue color on his computer. He says he'll get back to me. Now I have two choices of Urethane, he said there is their premium line for $600 a gallon ,including hardener and reducer or their shop line for $300 a gallon including the above. Has any any experience with the shop line?
 
Fibber Mcgee said:
I contacted a PPG dealer today and gave him the Ford codes and the PPG codes and he couldn't find the Cayuga Blue color on his computer. He says he'll get back to me. Now I have two choices of Urethane, he said there is their premium line for $600 a gallon ,including hardener and reducer or their shop line for $300 a gallon including the above. Has any any experience with the shop line?
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Are you building a show car or a daily driver? I know which way I would go.
 
Cecil/WV said:
I wouldn't use anything but an air supplied respirator and in my opinion, Urethane single stage is far superior to Imron. Imron is better than Acrylic enamel which is better than Alkyd enamel.
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yes i agree 100% an air repirator is the only safe bet
 
Most likely the failure of your present paint is due to poor quality primers that were available back when it was painted. New products are superior. The price is WAY higher! don't be shocked. You do need to remove all the old product. If it were me I would use a catalyzed primer/sealer similar to the PPG DP products on the bare metal. This is a non sanding primer that you cover with a high build catalyzed sandable primer surfacer, then a urethane color. I have found that the stores that sell PPG usually have a high build primer surfacer called European that costs only $100/gal including catalyst. It sands easy and costs about 1/4 of what the PPG high build sandable primers cost and is as durable.

Also, I can buy paint and supplies cheaper from TCP Global then my local stores even with shipping. You might check them out.
 
It's going to be a driver. My main concern is durability. We are going to the bare metal to eliminate the chance of it being a bad primer.
 
I used a PPG product call ESSS-A. Defleet Essential.
In cream color it was $76/gal. Hardener & activator
was $33.

I liked how it went on and covered, but I'm
a real amature. Some won't use cause its
for commercial use.

I used Shopline on a practice truck and I like the
ESSS better.

Gordon
 
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