About ready to paint the frame. Would appreciate knowing what type of primer and finish you used? Many years ago I know Korlar epoxy primer was good on steel and you could top coat it with about anything. Also are you using the same paint/ primer on all of the car? Thanks
Paint Question
- Thread starter DWMOONEY
- Start date
I would use PPG DPLF90. It is a high end two part epoxy primer. I sandblast a frame and almost immediately epoxy prime it to prevent flash rusting especially if there is high humidity. If you are going for authenticity, the frames were satin finished originally. I have heard, but never tried to just spary two or three costs of DPLF90 as it has a satin finish and leave it. DPLF90 is not UV resistant, however the frame doesn't see direct sun, unless it is sitting out in the sun before the body is installed, which shouldn't happen. Otherwise black two part Concept black with a flattener added, could be used as a top coat. BTW, the first time I painted a frame I used Rustoleum and it didn't holed up at all. It would scratch and crape off very easily. I resandblasted the frame (a dirty job) and used an epoxy paint.
Rusty Nelson
Rusty Nelson
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I also would use PPG DP-90 and top coat with DCC 9000 with some flattener added.
When you go to all the work of taking a car apart to restore it, you don't want to use cheap paint.
When you go to all the work of taking a car apart to restore it, you don't want to use cheap paint.
marc silva
Senior Member
I agree with Tom. I know paint is expensive but if you take the time then spend the money. I have "cheaped out" on many things only to reflect back and think why did I do it that way? Sometimes having to do it again. Small brackets you can get away with Rustoleum but the complete frame needs a quality paint. Just my opinion. You cant go wrong with professional paint.
Marc
Marc
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
>Clean the frame to bare metal.
>Photo and make a tracing of the original VIN stamped into the frame.
>Inspect for square and straighten as necessary.
>Fix any cracks in the front crossmember.
>Repair / replace any bent or cracked brackets. Test fit the running boards and adjust the running board brackets.
>Fix / replace defective, loose / missing rivets.
>Clean the frame with Dawn & warm water, or Simple Green and warm water, and followup with a petroleum solvent cleaner like lacquer thinner.
>Brush-on two thin coats of POR-15 Chassis Black.
>Top coat with a gloss black fuel resistant paint of your choice.
>Burnish to bare metal a circular area around the battery ground strap connection to the frame.
>Photo and make a tracing of the original VIN stamped into the frame.
>Inspect for square and straighten as necessary.
>Fix any cracks in the front crossmember.
>Repair / replace any bent or cracked brackets. Test fit the running boards and adjust the running board brackets.
>Fix / replace defective, loose / missing rivets.
>Clean the frame with Dawn & warm water, or Simple Green and warm water, and followup with a petroleum solvent cleaner like lacquer thinner.
>Brush-on two thin coats of POR-15 Chassis Black.
>Top coat with a gloss black fuel resistant paint of your choice.
>Burnish to bare metal a circular area around the battery ground strap connection to the frame.
Attachments
texas webb
Well-known member
Por-15 does not like the sun.Any exposed section will chalk.Check the POR specs on top coat.
bdave_mcc
Senior Member
POR15 is not a topcoat and weather will fade it over time, it will become almost chalky looking if exposed to the weather. Anytime I want a glossy black finish, PPG aue-100 and the catalyst aue-101 is the go to. Its an extremely durable industrial finish. Its used in painting large industrial equipment. Also works on properly prepared bare steel, no need for primer, etc.