Paint info, help needed

I'm a retired PPG Auto Paint jobber who did amateur work on my own toys. Figure out what you want and what your budget can stand. If you want to do it yourself find a jobber who cares and has a capable tech person. Then, listen. Learn about the products before you start. Follow directions. Products expensive and sometimes complicated so pay attention and think. Follow the wisdom stated previous posts above. Preparation is everything! Decide what you want. If you want show winning work you may want to hire a real pro with a proven record. However, I have seen patient amateurs get great results.

Here is my 29 tudor which I painted in my front yard in 1964--lacquer--with a diaphragm compressor with a pressure cup gun. It is a 20 footer. It has worn well and still turns heads and makes me and other folks happy who look past the warts and the garage wear and enjoy and effect. Driven weekly for 52 years. I made do with what I had on a limited budget when I was 23 years old. The car was never taken completely apart, and was driven to work everyday back then. It was the right choice for me at the time. I love it dearly, and it will never win a trophy.
 

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I have painted a few projects in the past, mostly motorcycles and sidecars. Stuff that I can use small equipment on. I have usually had good success. As always prep is key. If the budget permits I send it off to someone who knows what they are doing.

I am planning to paint my current project myself. I mostly use Acrylic Lacquers when I paint. This is because I do not have a good place to paint, I need to use the same shop that I weld in, do woodworking projects etc. I think that the faster dry times from the lacquer minimizes the risk of contamination from dust, bugs etc. If something does get into the paint, I can fix it in 20 minutes instead of a day later. The end to end job time is probably the same, but IMO lacquer is more forgiving for the amateur.
 
I painted my tudor in 2005 and I didnt have much money and I live and drive on gravel roads, so I built a visqueen spray booth with exhaust in my pole barn and painted it with truck enamel ( about a french gray ) that I bought at tractor supply for $18 a gallon, primer $18, hardener $6 I didnt use any bondo I used west bros boat building epoxy an filler that I had on hand. I dont have the gloss that the modern paint has but it has held up quite well. I also painted my 31 widebed in 99 with the same paint Ford Maroon that I mixed up myself (went to a paint store with a sample and they told me how much other colors to mix in the red. I drive my pickup in the winter here in michigan.
 
I have used the current brand that Tractor Supply uses, around there is it a brand called Majic. It is very durable. My '33 wheels are International harvester white, which is a nice cream color. I used the paint with the catalyst hardener and reducer. Warmed the wheels with IR lamps, and shot them. Left them under the lamps, they dried to touch in about two hours and are durable as all get out.
 
We just painted my 28 closed cab ,
I did it in my shed,
I taped black plastic sheets to the floor and put those plastic drop sheets from the walls so all there was was a plastic lined room.
Used my old compressor and regulator.
Bough a pair of devilbis guns from the net,got lots of advice from the local body repair shop on how and what to use.
I used PPG products.
The body shop did a repair and fill job on one door and door pillar.
Cost , paint ,hardener,thinners,and repair job $750.00
Paint guns $460
sand paper and plastic sheets etc about $100.00
We had not painted before,but we got a good job we are happy with.
while not as good as a pro job,we got a couple of runs,but the A is painted inside and out,all over.
Lawrie
 
Hi Curt: The Coupe was painted with PPG epoxy primer, Evercoat Polyester primer, PPG Urethane Primer surfacer and sealer. PPG Base-coat and Clearcoat.

They've just about cut off the solvent based products up here so in the next while it's going to have to be Water-bourne. I wonder how that will work at 50 Deg.s and little air movement.

I've been experimenting and the water-bourne really likes heat and air movement. I painted a plastic bumper end in cool weather in a garage and it took me about 3 hours!!!

8 paint systems, 34 years it won't stop.

The Old Tinbasher
 
Is it best to paint body parts like fenders, hood, running boards, etc. off the frame (it is a huckster so, rest of car is wood) or assemble, mask like the devil and then paint?
 
I'd like to ask a question please? I am doing a frame off restoration of my 1930 Tudor and now have everything in primer. I plan to do a base coat/ clear coat finish with Lombard Blue. Some of the forum posts I have read say the new paint codes for Lombard are to light because of white pigment in the formula. Do any of you Paint Experts have a formula for Lombard Blue I can get please? Thanks, Glen
 
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