Paint for the a chassis?

ratamahata

ratamahata

Well-known member
I want to paint my chassis, I know the model A chassis is very flexible and Henry was using the japan black paint, but i want painting the chassis with powder coat, for that reason my question is: the powder coat paint forms a very hard film and could break with the frame flexion? not be better polyurethane paint?
Thank´s
 
Powder coating is fine! Ford did not use japan black for frame, it was sprayed with an asphalt based "chassis black". This finish provided no more than a moderate gloss. It was generally resistant to moisture, but could be easily removed with most solvents.
 
if you powder coat it you will soon have many chips fron flexing at joints and cross members. where it doesnt chip you will have long spider web cracks. stop by any tractor supply dealer and buy a gallon of the truck and equipment oil based enamel, wont chip or crack, and almost impervious to all chemicals
 
ford1 said:
if you powder coat it you will soon have many chips fron flexing at joints and cross members. where it doesnt chip you will have long spider web cracks. stop by any tractor supply dealer and buy a gallon of the truck and equipment oil based enamel, wont chip or crack, and almost impervious to all chemicals
Click to expand...

Have you actually SEEN this happen?
My first evidence of the flexibility of powdercoat is as follows.....all my small parts were hung from S hooks, hastily made by snipping off sections from a roll of haywire. The wire was degreased with a quick wipe of lacquer thinner but certainly not sanded or blasted clean.
When I got everything back I straightened some of the S hooks to check the flexibility and it stuck fine. Next I tied the wire in a simple granny knot and it still didn't chip off. I have taken bolts and swatted them with a hammer in a vice and the paint stays put much better than any conventional paint.
I will agree that a dull sprayed enamel would look closer to the original soft asphalt base ... but your claims of long cracks & chipping of powdercoat on a correctly prepped frame OR ANYTHING for that matter sounds like a pile of BS ... in fact, make that Super Size.
 
In the Summer 2009 issue of the Model A Times we reviewed chassis paint manufactured by Hirsch Automotive. It is holding up well and the frame of the Mullins trailer take a lot of flexing and abuse.
 
Many characteristics of powder coat make it a superior alternative to wet spray paint, including the following.

Dry Film Thickness – Powder coat is 4 to 10 times thicker than traditional liquid spray paint. Wet paints are applied in thicknesses of 0.5 to 1 mil (a mil is one one-thousandths of an inch, or 0.001-inch). Powder coat is applied in thicknesses of 2 to 6 mils for decorative finishes or 6 to 10 mils (and thicker) for functional finishes.

Hardness – Decorative powder coat is physically harder than wet paint. This property translates into significantly greater scratch and chip resistance, and thus generally better durability.

Adhesion – Powder coat adheres to the substrate better than spray paint. Partially a function of the sophisticated pretreatment process that all parts go through prior to coating, the excellent adhesion contributes to chip resistance as well as corrosion resistance.

Flexibility – Powder coat can withstand bending without cracking or flaking. Powder manufacturers publish flexibility test results that demonstrate between 100-800% elongation before failing!

Corrosion Resistance – Proper pretreatment and powder coat finish selection results in corrosion resistance which can far surpass traditional spray paint. Published decorative powder coat test results show salt spray tests of 1000 hours and longer without failure, and functional coatings are even more corrosion resistant. That’s not to say powder coat cannot be scratched, because if you work hard enough you can scratch anything. With traditional spray paint the rust at a scratch exposed to the elements will spread and lift the surrounding paint until the finish is ruined. With an appropriate powder coat finish, a deep scratch left in the elements long enough to ruin spray paint will still be a rusty scratch.

Environmental Impact – Powder coat is an environmentally friendly process. The powder is not a significant health, fire, or environmental hazard (in dry form it is called a “nuisance dust” because it makes a dusty mess if spilled). As a comparison, wet paint is flammable, carcinogenic, and full of volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
 
That Hirsch paint is very similar to POR-15, which is another choice you have. It's very durable and flexible.
Rog
 
They say that powder coating is flexible but we have 11 boats at my work that come with powder coated wrap around railings and they flex and have the tendency to crack and chip. I would say that its a load of BS ive had it chip alot.
 
I think the successful of the powder coat depends very much the surface preparation, application and curing to obtain good results
 
Tibor said:
They say that powder coating is flexible but we have 11 boats at my work that come with powder coated wrap around railings and they flex and have the tendency to crack and chip. I would say that its a load of BS ive had it chip alot.
Click to expand...

Did you contact the shop who painted them to see what's wrong? Maybe they painted over shiny smooth or polished metal and/or used the cheapest available product in order to win the lowest bid.
I've come to realize there's a larger ratio of services done incorrectly than correctly...driven & supported by an endless supply of consumers who believe "cheapest is best"
Far too much blame is directed at paint ... when the REAL culprit is lazy/poor preperation.
 
Powder used for powder coating and the process is like paint and painting in that you can get cheap paint and throw in on a car that someone used windex to clean and you can go to a high end shop where the body is sanded, preped, cleaned, primed, high quality paint sprayed with high quality guns, clean filtered air in the paint booth where temp and humidity are controlled.

Guess which one will last?

I read here of someone powder coating a piece of tin foil and was able to bend it with no failure of the coating.
 
I like Rustoleum, maybe tinted with a little brown in semi gloss black. Skinned Knuckles did a very extensive rust experiment with different paints over many months in the early 90's. The test results showed Rustoleum offered the best rust protection. Powder coating was not tested.
 
Single-stage urethane paints are also very durable; these are also used for refinishing porcelained sinks, tubs, and other appliance and bathroom fixtures.

I believe POR-15 is a urethane paint. I used it on the front suspension of my '41 De Soto a few years back... it is a bit fussy to work with, but seems to be holding-up very well.

Personally, I do not like the look of powder-coat finishes... something about them looks "odd".
 
I'm coming up on 12 years with a powder coated frame, running gear and wheels on my roadster. This is a fenderless car and the only chips that I've received are on the radius rods.

To those naysayers, I would say that it has more to do with the application than the process. We're fortunate here in Durango to have a very good powder coater that charges fair prices.
 
The place that powder coats for the company we buy from is very reputable and for the price we pay it better not be the cheapest job. Maybe they just see to much use. Im not saying that you shouldnt powder coat a frame, My el camino frame was powder coated about 7 years ago it only has about $1000 miles on it but looks great. What i am saying is just like everyone says I wouldnt think that becuase its powder coated nothing can go wrong. If it eventualy cracks and chips then thats just that way it is But it could go forever and still look great.
 
Special Coupe Frank said:
Single-stage urethane paints are also very durable; these are also used for refinishing porcelained sinks, tubs, and other appliance and bathroom fixtures.

I believe POR-15 is a urethane paint. I used it on the front suspension of my '41 De Soto a few years back... it is a bit fussy to work with, but seems to be holding-up very well.

Personally, I do not like the look of powder-coat finishes... something
about them looks "odd".
Click to expand...

Frank I believe the bath & fixture paint you refer to is actually Polyurethane enamel. This is probably the strongest sprayable coating available and is used on aircraft, bridges and some equipment. One of the name brands is called "Endura".
I sprayed several fishing boats, my personal speedboat and a 50 foot sailing boat with it in the 80's and the results where amazing. It has a deadly icocyanite hardener and powerfull reducers... the overspray carries for miles and ruins everything it lands on. The PPG version was called Durethane & last time I checked it was pulled from the shelves.

POR-15 is entirely different. While POR15 has admirable strength, if the directions are followed EXACTLY, it has ZERO ultraviolet resistance and will breakdown rapidly with exposure to direct sunlight. The catalyst for POR-15 is moisture, explaining why it stains your skin almost instantly ...due to the moisture in your body. I use it in my business occassionally over severe rust, but find Rustoleum with dryer is more user freindly, somewhat softer, but longer lasting over carefully prepped, hidden, rust areas.
In short, every paint on the market has an application it excells in. Unfortunately paints & coatings are more often applied OUTSIDE of the instructions defined by the manufacture. They get a "bad rap" because that's all the viewer sees.

:).... I'm not trying to sound like the proverbial "know-it-all" , but everything I say here is from 30 years of painting customer & personal items. YES I make mistakes...but I also delete as many letters as I post, in an effort to ONLY post info I believe as fact.
 
Great info Craig!! thank´s

Powder Coatings are available in many technologies:-

Epoxy Powder Coatings: Ideal for internal aggressive applications, combining excellent mechanical properties with a high degree of chemical resistance. Developed to comply with very demanding corporate & legislative specifications.

Epoxy Polyester Hybrid Powder Coatings: A blend of epoxy and polyester resins, which offer both designer and coater the optimum combination of decorative and protective properties on a wide range of internal components. It combines speed of use, good over bake stability with excellent color and gloss retention.


Polyester Powder Coatings: These coatings are tough and attractive, providing excellent weathering characteristics for exterior durability. Formulations available in TGIC free and Super Durable.


Polyurethane Powder Coating: These coatings provide exceptional smoothness. They combine good chemical and mechanical properties for interior and exterior durability where a high degree of performance and appearance is important.
This product exhibits good heat resistant properties, as well as good flow and weather resistance. Enhanced Polyurethanes offer excellent chemical and solvent resistance.
 
Whenever I rebuild a rear end I sand the finished assembly down and paint it with a spray can of Rustoleum. I use the professional grade obtained from Home Depot. The ones on my cars were done years ago and seem to be holding up well.

I don't believe powder coating a rear end is a good idea. There may come a day when you need Triple A to haul the car home. Wrapping rusty chains around powder coated axle housing can do a number on them. I don't know how you would repair them. With the Rustoleum you can sand the area smooth and shoot it again.

Tom Endy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top