Paint adhesion .
- Thread starter Fordestes
- Start date
Also I am wondering about a good paint gun, after 40 years of not painting anything, I used an H.V.L.P gun which I bought at S.E.M.A years back and to my surprise it worked pretty well for what I was painting , it seemed a little slow to me for painting a whole car , (may just be the operator) so I decided to buy a better one , I am thinking the H.F. Black Widow with the back fan control would be what I can afford and I am not planning on painting any more than two cars . I see where there is an H.V.L.P and an H.T.E ,I also see where they are showing one with the 1.7 and one with the 1.3 , I cannot find any info as to whether the tips can be changed to different sizes for different material being sprayed ,do any of you have a Black Widow paint Gun? if so how is it working out for you ,do I get the H.T.E or the H.V.L.P ? What is the difference . Thanks , D.Estes
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
IMHO, it goes something like this. You either purchase a crappy paint gun for cheap money and then buy twice as much paint because the gun make half of it into overspray, -or, you buy a quality spray gun and save money on the quantity of paint you will use.
It is also worth noting that a crappy Chinesium paint cannot atomize the paint as effectively so ultimately you will spend time, energy, and money on colorsanding the painted panels to have a nice finish. Again, your call but IMHO a SATAjet 5500 would be money well spent.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Used Sata guns don't lose much resale if they have been taken care of. One thing to consider is to paint your vehicle in small sections. Painting the entire body can be overwhelming to not only your brain, but your eyes and your wrist. Paint just a door focusing on overlap, technique, and flash times. The next day paint the other door with same mindset. Paint all of the smaller pieces (i.e.: individual Hood pieces, gas tank, etc.) gradually moving up to bigger pieces or areas such as the upper body, the lower body, etc. etc. I have always found that when mistakes or fatigue starts kicking in, then more follow suit making even a bigger mess.
Brent, you really sound like a guy that knows what the hell he is talking about. I don't think I would see flexseal on your restorations.
Based on what you said earlier. Isn't the key to lay as little paint down as possible to get a good job, then apply enough coats of clear to sand and buff to get the show car results? I always thought, and I certanlly could be wrong, that it was ok to apply extra clear, just in case.
Based on what you said earlier. Isn't the key to lay as little paint down as possible to get a good job, then apply enough coats of clear to sand and buff to get the show car results? I always thought, and I certanlly could be wrong, that it was ok to apply extra clear, just in case.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Brent, you really sound like a guy that knows what the hell he is talking about. I don't think I would see flexseal on your restorations.
Based on what you said earlier. Isn't the key to lay as little paint down as possible to get a good job, then apply enough coats of clear to sand and buff to get the show car results? I always thought, and I certanlly could be wrong, that it was ok to apply extra clear, just in case.
Well, ...kinda.
For me, I rarely recommend Clear, -and we rarely use them in my shop for a couple of reasons. A Show Car is often viewed as an Easter Egg (-an object that was decorated to look pretty but you can't really do anything with it). A BC/CC type paint is very difficult to touch-up or blend without it being obvious. For someone who plans to drive their car, this is not what they would want. Secondly, BC/CC paint generally looks 'plastic-ey' which is not what represents paintwork on vintage vehicles. My recommendation is to stay with a single-stage urethane. Yes to fewer coats, and yes colorsand the paint and buff. (We colorsand to 5000 grit).