Paint A Car With Rustoleum?

I have seen Rustoleum 2X used on a set of fenders with fantastic results.I would have sworn that it was professionally done at a body shop. The 2 X product has more color pigment than the regular can.The color was black although they have many colors of 2X.
 
I used Ford tractor enamel on my hukster. It is around $30-40 a quart. Used a spray guy on a very small comressor. But I did do much prep work before starting to paint-a lot of sandblast, sanding off old paint and rust, etc. But it is also a 10 foot paint job but that works for me. I take it to a number of local car shows and in the last two years have won 7 or 8 awards for it. Last award was this last summer at the Forest Grove Concours dElegance where it took 2nd place in class. I enjoy the huckster and do get a lot of comments about how good it looks. So I think it is in what you want as a final product.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9555a.jpg
    IMG_9555a.jpg
    80.2 KB · Views: 41
Last edited:
picture.php


All the Black on mine is Rustoleum, Black Gloss bought @ Wal-Mart for $8.95 a Quart, with 100% Mineral Spirits used as Thinner, $10 a Gallon. And the Paint Gun below for $15 from Harbor Freight was used to spray both Colors. I know that the Shine may only Last for a couple of Years. But I don't get Nervous when People Touch the Paint or Feel the Car. This Car was intended to be Used, not a Show Piece. It only takes about an Hour to Remove a Fender to Repaint it. I Keep it Waxed and Clean as Possible and enjoy Driving it.
 

Attachments

  • image_21036.jpg
    image_21036.jpg
    15.6 KB · Views: 23
Last edited:
Well I have been painting cars for the last 45 years and I would not do it. I use nothing but DuPont top of the line and yes it's expensive. But in saying that about all of the major paint manf have a second line of paint that is a lot cheaper. For new cars etc you won't get a good match of OEM paint but for an all over I guess it's OK. I used a some of DuPonts Nason brand on some components of a street rod a friend was building. It was OK but I really didn't like it as well as their top of the line paint and would not use it on anything I wanted to keep for a long time. I do not know how the parts help up as he sold the car before finishing it. By the way it was an all reproduction 32 Ford roadster and no original parts were used. I also did a 37 Terraplane for him, finished it back in 1996 and it still looks as good today as it did when finished and is driven everywhere it goes. You money & your car do as you please.
 
Fred K-OR said:
Jazzjr, what do you use on your wood to keep it protected from moisture?
Click to expand...

Mothers Paste wax is what I'm using on both the Paint and the Oak. But it has not seen any Rain as of yet. Also has been kept in Dry Garage since i started the Project in 2009.
 
The "Miss E" was repainted with Tractor Supply's farm tractor paint. I think it was a Rustoleum lable. The downside it tends to fade faster (lots faster) than Automotive paint. You have to keep it waxed to keep any shine. The TSC paint was painted ove Acrylic Enamal and after 1 1/2 years no problems yet.
 

Attachments

  • rebuild 8.jpg
    rebuild 8.jpg
    58.3 KB · Views: 37
This Ford was sprayed with Rustoleum several years ago and gets compliments from the public every time I go somewhere. Total cost for yellow and white was about $65 and I can repaint in other colors anytime
 

Attachments

  • yellow truck.jpg
    yellow truck.jpg
    70.1 KB · Views: 47
Lowes sells a Rustoleum paint for boats that has UV protection, which is what I painted my truck with. This paint answers all the worries about chalking and the like. As far as paint peeling, I sanded my truck back to bare metal and used the appropriate Rustoleum primer which gave the paint the base it needed. Mine is a very low dollar project, and for less than $200 (an a lot of time sanding) I was able to have a serviceable, nice looking paint job. I painted it in my driveway and garage with decent results. Not going to win any awards, but then I am not afraid of a kid scratching it, either. To me that is more fun...
 
ive been using rattle can rustoleum for years . good results ! first suggestion is to learn how to use a spray can . takes me like 3 coats to get it finished . 2 tack coats & 1 finish coat . dont be in a hurry .......
 
I would guess any paint today is better than what all model A's had orginally. I think it's more the prep and talent of the painter more than the paint.
 
I used PPG's Shop Line paint to do my wife's 57. 1 gallon epoxy primer/sealer plus hardener, 1 gallon Single stage Color with hardener and reducer. Total was around $280-300. Decent paint for the money.

Used a HF HLVP $20 dollar gun for the epoxy (a guy standing in line behind me gave me a coupon to make it $5 a gun, I bought 2) and a little nicer eastwood gun for the single stage (it work okay, but I think the HF would have worked just as well. Granted I am not a professional painter).

You do need a decent compressor to keep up with spraying something large.

I've used spray cans before, but if it's as big as a fender I would shoot it with a gun. I use rustoleum in a qt can for chassis stuff and floors. Works very well.

I thought for a hobby painter it turned out decent. Sorry it's not a model A.

Sealer
153407


Single stage
183641
 

Attachments

  • 57 paint.jpg
    57 paint.jpg
    51.1 KB · Views: 126
Last edited:
This thread brought back a rush of memory of my high school days, my rides were always a plethora of primer calico color, my how times have changed. Kids wouldn't be caught dead in some of the stuff I use to run.
 
Regarding Rustoleum rattle can painting. The paint takes a long time to dry and harden completely. Anyone been able to speed this up, like in an oven or by using heat lighting?
 
Here in florida I just put it out in the sun for a day, then put it inside for a few days (less humidity).
 
Good advice
"My guess is that you would be better off going to one of the high volume low cost paint shops, Earl Schieb, Macco, One Day, to name a few."

With that being said please do yourself a favor and leave the roller for doing house paint. I have been a restorer for over 40 years, sure to do a perfect job you will most likely need the right equipment, such as a quality gun for both primer and paint, the right body work tools, a good compressor with water removal system/filters, a dedicated paint booth, various grades of sand paper from 220 to 2000 and a good grade of automotive paint, but with a lot of work and research you can do a good paint job with not too much money, will you win at a show for the quality of the paint job, maybe not, but will it look good, yes, if you put effort into learning and doing it. Even professional shops have to work at it and sometimes do it over. The preparation is the most important part as well as where you are spraying, the temp/ humidity and how you work the gun. Basecoat/ clearcoat will give you some room to correct errors, but single phase paint is doable also. Check out all that is available on youtube, or find someone who paints vehicles for a living and ask if they will paint yours on the side, locally there is a guy who paints Volvo/White trucks who does side work, I am sure it is that way all over. As to the cost of paint, yes it can be expensive. I found a guy who runs a paint business up in NY that blows the local suppliers away on prices for PPG. here is a link to one of his adds on ebay. I have been buying paint from Bill for over 5 years, he will also quote you a price on a custom mix. I have never asked him about a Model A color, but I am sure if you had the PPG paint code he could mix it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PPG-Omni-AU...1513511958&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

hope this helps, your mileage may vary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top