Pain in the Rear Hub!

Dal's Dream Car

Dal's Dream Car

Member
Does anyone have a step-by-step on rear hub removal? Never done it before and I need to replace a stud. I have the hub remover and loosened the brake adjuster but the linings seem to be hanging up and I dont want to force anything. You folks have been a tremendous help throughout.
 
Put the ****** in neutral and if you still can't turn the hub then you need to loosen the brake linings, or remove the brake rods. Have you loosened the axle nut and tried the puller yet? What style puller do you have?
 
If it's hanging up on the brake shoes make certain that you have the brakes adjusted as far away from the drums as possible. If that doesn't do the trick use a torch and gently heat the outer circumfrence of the drum. Just go round and round and round with the torch. It may take a while as your not trying to get the drum super hot but just warm enough to expand the drum and loosen any built up grease ridge the shoes might be hanging up on. You shouldn't have to get it so hot you damage any paint.
Dave
 
It could also be hanging up on the emergency brake shoes which is a separate set than the regular brake. try removing the the e -brake rods off the cross shaft which is easier than getting to the clevis pins at the rear..
 
Thanks all. I do have a hub puller that I got from Snyders. I adjusted the brakes to be (what I believe) as far away from the drum as possible. The hub comes off about 1 inch and hangs up. I can see the brake shoes pulling away with it. I will try disconnecting the rods and if that doesn't work, I'll start heating up the metal.
 
How long ago were the rear brakes "fully" overhauled?

Reason for asking:

1. Because of having "old" grease, the petroleum liquid material in the grease leaks out & evaporates, thus leaving a "dry", hard caked residue all around the brake adjusting wedge "and" the brake adjusting shafts.

2. This dry caked residue fills the threads & makes the brake adjusting wedge not only harder to turn, but can pile up & jam the threads such that the brake adjusting wedge will not turn even with brute force.

3. If so, one gets a false impression that the brakes are fully retracted; but they are not.

4. If the adjustig wedge can be rotated, maybe try injecting Kroil or Liquid Wrench plus WD-40 into the back side of the backing plate at the rotating square lug; then "turn both ways & inject Kroil" repeatedly, several times, to try to soften this dry caked old grease.

5. After a while, you may be able to turn the wedge a few more revolutions in the counter-clockwise direction to fully retract the brake shoes.

Worth a try prior to wrapping the brake drums with TNT & a blasting cap.
 
On your brake wedge if you can't see the threads your not out all the way. Pb blastor works good , try rotating the wedge in and out.
 
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