Overheating solved

burner31

burner31

Well-known member
Well it's 104 today and Mama and I went cruising around, shopping really.
Mostly stayed in the 160 - 165 range the whole time.
What did I do? Well let's see.
First I did the vinegar treatment, drove around for a week with 100% vinegar (smelt like a mobile Russian restaurant), drained, flushed and neutralized with dissolved baking soda.
Refilled with water/antifreeze and drove around almost two weeks before overheating stated again, seems the vinegar loosened a lot of garbage that ended up covering the top of the radiator tubes, preventing flow.
Removed the radiator and flushed, got a hand full of garbage, turned it over and back flushed and got another handful of garbage.
Got me a gallon of "Evapo-rust" plugged up the bottom and filled up the radiator, then plugged the top and overflow tubes and let it sit 24 hours flipped the radiator for another 24 hours, then laid in down for 24 hours and then flipped it over for another 24 hours, making sure I let it soak every which way.
Drained (save the evapo-rust) flushed and then flush again, and neutralized
again with a box of dissolved baking soda.
One more good flush and refill with fresh water/antifreeze.
No leaks in the radiator but a small dripping from the water pump.

Your results may vary.
 
Congrats on solving your problem. I bet there have been plenty of radiators replaced over the years that could have been saved. What is the active component of Evapo Rust?
 
Ingredient/Chemical Designations Weight % CAS Number
Water >83 7732-18-5
Proprietary non-hazardous chelating agent <16 Proprietary
Proprietary non-hazardous detergent <1 Proprietary
In accordance with paragraph (i) of §1910.1200, the specific chemical identity and/or exact percentage (concentration) of composition has been withheld as a trade secret.
 
EVAPO-RUST rust remover is an amazing award winning rust REMOVER which is utilized by the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy, U.S. Air Force, FBI, NATO, Government Contractors, Engine Builders, Auto Enthusiasts, Gunsmiths, Forensic Labs, OEM’s, Farmers, Antique Restorers and more.

Evapo-Rust will remove rust from all types of metals containing iron. Evapo-Rust does not remove rust stains. Rust and rust stains are two different things.

EVAPO-RUST is non-corrosive to steel and does not harm brass, copper, aluminum, gold, lead, titanium, steel, cast iron, chrome, solder points, vinyl, plastic, rubber, silicone, glass, cork, or wood. EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life* and can be used over and over until it absolutely stops working. On average, one gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds of light to moderately rusted steel.
 
Hi Keith,

FWIW: Just one (1) experience to share with overheating "vintage" vehicles:

Under "Troubleshooting", for all types of vehicles, there are always many different reasons "written" for "inexperienced" mechanics to look for as to "what" causes engine overheating.

In most cases, "experienced" mechanics find that with vintage vehicles, the "lack of proper coolant flow" is usually the "main" cause for engine overheating in 99% of the cases.

Engines will "never" run cool while producing steam for an engine coolant.

Glad to see that you recognized the "real" problem and concentrated on resolving it.

Hope this helps one to seek a main starting point when trying to resolve vintage engine overheating problems.
 
Mitch//pa said:
And gas tanks
Click to expand...

Head of the nail Mitch.
Although my tank is clean, no junk, flakes or trash, I'll be using the evapo-rust on it this winter. I'm having to much fun driving it right now.
I can see a few rust areas on the bottom of the tank.
I have quite a list started for this winter, I'm almost looking forward to it.
 
For the record, I've been using Evaporust for about a year on different projects. It is an excellent product. I found it cheapest on their web site, and bought 5 gal concentrate... maybe 1/2 gal (don't quote me) of concentrated Evaporust in a 5 gal bucket (concentrated for low shipping rate. You reconstitute it as instructed with water. Use it sparingly, of course, just covering your part. First use of fresh stuff- several hours; heavy rust, overnight or a day.

This stuff will keep working, but get darker (decant the sludge)... as you re-use it, it will take longer and longer to get good results. You have to rinse the parts well, and DRY QUICKLY to prevent FLASH RUSTING, which will appear quickly on newly exposed iron, even though it is a VERY thin layer of rust, it is ugly. Chuck
 
Congrats! and smart of keeping the radiator cleaning separate from the engine... Not a good ideal of have crap from one flow into the other when cleaning with chemicals..
 
Sounds like the chemical action that takes place when oxalic acid is
introduced to iron oxide. oxalic acid used by beer can collectors to
derust old steel can. does not bother paint. rusts turns black and falls
away from the steel. Oxalic acid available in crystal form on the net.
use goggle ! Just treated my gas tank, and hopefully all the rust is
gone.
 
Update:
107 today, forty miles in and around town, no issues with overheating.
Going to tighten up the brakes some...nuts out here like to turn in front of you
 
When I was chasing my overheating issue Purdy Swoft kept reminding me RADIATOR, RADIATOR. As long as ambient temps are low a marginal radiator will probably get by but let it get above 85 and they will show their weakness. 100 plus degree days here in OK need a good radiator.
 
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