Overheating resolved (simple)

FWIW: Most overheating problems are radiator related rather the problems listed under manufacturers' troubleshooting items.

If one is further interested, the internet has many different articles on sizing water pumps for different engines, and increasing the coolant flow to make engines run cooler.

Also, lots of heat transfer details by scientist using very detailed scientific heat transfer terms.

The Model A radiator baffle was designed to redirect and deflect the forceful stream of water coming from the water pump so it would not enter the overflow tube; hence the overflow tube was positioned above the baffle.

The highest level of coolant in the upper radiator reservoir is where coolant is pumped and forced into the upper reservoir ....... usually near the overflow tube.

If the overflow tube is positioned low in this flow stream, one can gradually lose coolant over time.

Speed of flow of radiator coolant appears very simple if one considers:

1. With any engine, if coolant is too cold, the thermostat "restricts" water flow to allow coolant stand still ............. or flow very slowly to heat up the coolant.

2. When coolant gets hot or too hot, the thermostat "opens" and reduces restriction ........ so coolant can flow much faster to better cool the coolant.

3. If one has a malfunctioning thermostat and one's engine overheats, it will be caused by the thermostat not opening enough to allow faster water flow ....... it will never be because the thermostat is too open and the coolant is flowing too fast.

Always lots of dialog contributions on problems far away where we cannot "see" problems in person.

Similarly, this Forum sometimes resembles several Cardiologists in a clinic in New York discussing a heart patient's heart condition ...... especially if calling New York from the South Pacific Society Island of Tahiti where the problem cannot be seen. LOL

Like everyone above ..... glad your engine is running great and cooling great .... you are far ahead of the game.
 
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Synchro909 said:
Is that old crock still out there??:eek:
It's plain wrong! If the water is slowed down through the radiator so it can cool more, it is also slowed down in the engine also so it heats up more. End result: Zero gain.
Happy you have resolved your overheating problem, now you can enjoy your A .
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Correct: The reason it cools off is that the added pressure at the water pump prevents cavitation, which caused the heating in the first case.:)
 
I think I shared this picture in the past of the 'restrictor' that someone placed in my water outlet in the past 85 years... seemed to serve it's purpose.

24545132044_1a13d2b44d.jpg
 
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H. L. Chauvin said:
I could be totally incorrect; however, with:

1. A non-pressurized Model A radiator; and,

2. Water flowing downward through the radiator tubes by gravity;

3. With a thermodynamic cooling theory like that ......... appears like one could place three (3) thermostats in the upper hose and it would be possible to make ice.

On the other hand, I think what could have happened is that initially an abundance of water was pumped into the upper reservoir of your radiator whereby you were losing water in your overflow tube until the water level got low and the engine overheated; and now with a thermostat, (i.e., a restriction of flow), less water is pumped into the upper radiator reservoir and you are not losing water through the overflow tube.

But who knows ....... might be a new type of unheard of Radiator Vapor Lock with a Global Warming relationship.

But seriously, Mr. Bill Williamson's trick works; i.e., place a large headed nail in the overflow tube to restrict losing radiator water through the overflow tube.
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did the nail thing and blew the tubes out on my 29===600.00 nail
 
Many in the past have cut tips of fins on Model A water pumps to control cavitation.

But ....... in FULL SUPPORT of the very courteous gentleman who reported his cooling success:

He probably drove out to a lake this morning in his "COOL" Model A ..... and is presently sitting on a terrace drinking Mint Juleps ......... with a beautiful young girl sitting on each lap ....... while we have here a bunch of old hard headed farts sitting behind keyboards trying to type different reasons why his Model A repair was successful.

THANKS to him ............. and three (3) cheers for this wonderful guy who told us about "WHAT WORKED"
 
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In my previous post (#3), I may have left the impression that I was saying that the faster the water flows, the better. I apologise if anybody took it that way. Some of the posts since have quite rightly pointed out that the water CAN circulate too quickly. I should have given the proviso that it shouldn't flow so fast that it overflows the top tank and not pumped so hard that cavitation occurs. Restricting the flow with a thermostat or even the gasket shown by Yblockhead (post 22) is a good way to eliminate those two potential problems.
To the OP - "Betchya didn't expect your post to start this discussion!
 
Welcome to the Barn The FargoA. Sounds like you have solved your problem. I also have used thermostats in both my A's and have not had any problems. Good luck and have fun with your A.
 
Here is how I see this subject. Here is the link for a video I did some time ago. Since then, I took a system with a good radiator and buzzed the engine to 2400 rpm, 45 mph, and measured the pressure at the radiator outlet with the engine off and at 2400 rpm. I found no difference. Therefore, a good flowing radiator will take far more flow than our pumps can put out. The reason the smaller pump (Cut down vanes) helps or the stat in the upper hose, is that it reduces the negative pressure slightly in the head. A band aid for a marginal system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug01EW7UZGM&list=PLhL36Rc6o5MI5gsZreCrIa0r_fFQcz4R0&index=9
 
Y-Blockhead said:
How's that?? If his cooling system is in good condition a thermostat isn't going to make it run hotter. Above 180° the thermostat will be WFO.
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Here in Louisiana and Texas area, during summer driving when the temps get around 94- 100 . the car that runs 190 in 50-60 degrees weather will most likely run to hot . That's what happens around here. Have fun modelAtony tony white Lafayette, LA
 
Jacksonlll said:
Here is how I see this subject. Here is the link for a video I did some time ago. Since then, I took a system with a good radiator and buzzed the engine to 2400 rpm, 45 mph, and measured the pressure at the radiator outlet with the engine off and at 2400 rpm. I found no difference. Therefore, a good flowing radiator will take far more flow than our pumps can put out. The reason the smaller pump (Cut down vanes) helps or the stat in the upper hose, is that it reduces the negative pressure slightly in the head. A band aid for a marginal system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug01EW7UZGM&list=PLhL36Rc6o5MI5gsZreCrIa0r_fFQcz4R0&index=9
Click to expand...

EVERYONE should watch this video. Explains the situation very well!!!
 
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