Overheating 8ba

firerod said:
I don't mean to rob this thread but I also have a overheating question. I have a 59a engine, new Dennis Carpenter water pumps, Stant 170 thermostats, 50/50 antifreeze. I have checked the timing and it is good. I am using a stock '32 radiator. The car seems to cool fine around town with low RPM's (180-185), but if I get on the highway or gear down for a climb with higher RPM'S it goes up to 210 and up. Any ideas?
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Remove the stats, that type restricts the flow of coolant. The pumps you have don't move very much coolant. Make sure you fill the radiator and
have a good working pressure cap. Put the overflow into a recovery
bottle so as it cools down through 155 degrees it sucks the coolant
back into the system. G.M.
 
Well,we got the new aluminum put in a couple days ago,I must say it is a work of art,perfect fit and looks great,,took for a 10 mile test drive and never got over 180* he has 180 thermostats,...first time he's been able to drive it sense rebuild,really happy and worth every penny for piece of mind. Thanks for all replies!!! Think it was only $180 could not have gotten old one rebuilt for that..
 
If you go with an aluminum radiator be sure to install at least one sacrificial anode in the lower tank.
Two is better with another in a head in the unused temp sender hole.
Then Jack up the front of the car, remove the rad cap and burp the system. Leave it sit for awhile to allow any air to rise and exit the radiator.
And be sure to use the correct coolant for aluminum.
My big flathead never gets over 185 degrees so it can be done.
 
when u press on accelerator to fight head wind or climb hills more fuel is needed to fight the resistance..more fuel creates more heat..boils down to raise your right foot..less gas less heat....learned to drive flattie many years ago....poor design in engine when speed limit was about 45/50 mph..no interstates..errands were a short trip ,,grand moms was few miles away on poor roads..today the world is 70 mph and get out of my way..on and on..the flattie I run today acts as you describe..i use a closed system with recovery container,,into evening sun,,bucking head wind,,,poor design,,gear selection.aerodynamics..just the way it is..
 
Forgot to mention,the aluminum radiator came with its own pressure cap ,had 1.1 stamped on it ,don't really know if that is psi or what but it works,
Just thinking about overheating,the radiator we use are close to 80 years old ,think of all the rust that has accumulated in that time in the small tubes and reduced water flow,don't think the heating problem was there years ago, in my opinion the new radiators can solve a lot of overheating problems..
 
Don said:
Forgot to mention,the aluminum radiator came with its own pressure cap ,had 1.1 stamped on it ,don't really know if that is psi or what but it works,
Just thinking about overheating,the radiator we use are close to 80 years old ,think of all the rust that has accumulated in that time in the small tubes and reduced water flow,don't think the heating problem was there years ago, in my opinion the new radiators can solve a lot of overheating problems..
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Cleaning the old radiator can also solve overheating problems.
I own 30 flatheads and NEVER replaced a radiator. I did have
a few recored that had visible exterior tube damage. I wouldn't
want an aluminum radiator in my old Fords, To much vibration
in my opinion. G.M.
 
Michael A.... Roto Metals makes a variety of anodes under the brand Flexa Lite. They have one that will screw right into your heads and the threaded bung on the lower tank of your aluminum radiator. They are inexpensive.
 
Don said:
Forgot to mention,the aluminum radiator came with its own pressure cap ,had 1.1 stamped on it ,don't really know if that is psi or what but it works,
.
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The 1.1 is bar and converts to 16 psi. I wouldn't be comfortable with that much pressure in a flathead. 4-7 psi should be enough.
 
Will see about changing pressure cap to lower pressure,thanks for info!!!! 16 is way to much
 
Original fan that's on a 8ba engine ,a little far away from radiator but seems to cool and. draw air thru radiator ,just fine , Had a 2 dr ht same color as your aviator about 1960 or there about,nice car looking back on lt!!!!
 
The pressure cap just holds the pressure to that point before it overflows. If it doesn't get very hot, it won't ever get the the pressure up that high anyway. The higher pressure allows for a higher boiling point if it is getting pretty hot. If it boils over with that pressure then it's going to be way over 212 degrees anyway. The radiator construction and quality is usually the deciding factor on the type of pressure cap a person selects.
 
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