overheating '29

B

bagpiper

Member
I have a '29 Tudor that I bought some time ago, and don't know the history. Have had heart probs. and am just now feeling like fooling with it. Each time I drove it, it ran fine and cool enough at low speeds. (25-30 MPH) At speeds of 40-50 it overheats and blows coolant mixture out around the Quail cap onto the hood and windshield. At idle, it doesn't overheat. It looks like a new radiator. It has what appears to be the stock 2 blade fan. Oil is seeping out between head and block and seeps down on the block. I plan to replace the head gasket (already bought one) Where is a good place to start on the overheating? Thanks!
 
If the radiator core is only 2 rows thick that may be your problem. Almost certainly the problem is a plugged radiator, but you can try some quicker and cheaper things first.
1. Make sure the timing is correct. Late timing causes overheating.
2. Check the radiator for slimey residue from too much water pump grease. I cleaned the slime out of my 28 radiator by using cleaners, then a dose of washing soda. This cleaned the radiator of the slime and lowered the temp at least 20*.
3. Check the head nut torque. You may not need to replace the head gasket.
 
My 30 coupe had those same problems exactly. Timing was my problem.Like yours it would idle all day no problems.Ran all day 35 mph.You go over 35 you better have good wipers.
 
It may be that just the gaskets at the quail are bad. There are replacements avail. That's what was wrong with mine along with the o/flow tube in wrong location. You could do a search for more "fixes".
Paul in CT
 
Pardon my ignorance, but since this isn't a pressurized system, why would the quail even need gaskets? I will try the suggestions and a closer inspection of the radiator. I did try the rad. cleaning several months ago that Tom mentioned . Haven't driven it since to see if that helped. After a trip to the Cleveland Clinic and getting myself replumbed, maybe I'll get to drive my A more. Thanks for the replies.
 
Although the stock Model A cooling system is not pressurized the water pump can move a lot of coolant. Because of this there can be lots of water up at the radiator cap. I would suggest you measure the coolant temperature when it is blowing coolant out. Then you will know if it is a heat problem or a containment problem.

Bob
 
Thanks for the replies,
The gaskets on the quail are both in place and look good to me. The overflow tube is clear. I don't know how to tell how many rows of tubes the radiator has? The baffle is in place and no oily residue. The head nuts were very loose. Torqued all in the proper sequence to 55 ft. lbs. Just found out that the timing pin is missing. I'll have to order one to check/set the timing. (Unless someone knows something that I don't) Boy, I left myself wide open there, didn't I. Looks like a lot of people know more than I do. Thanks again.
 
I also found a thermostat helps for cars that loos coolant. My 28 would take 2 to 3 quarts every 50 mile trip, until I added a thermostat. That put a complete stop to coolant loss, then a year later the radiator cleaning treatment stopped the hot running. Dropped the temp from about 210 to under 190 on a hot summer day.
 
Bagpiper, I find that Model A's like to find their own coolant level. If the tubes are covered with coolant, that might be enough. Maybe you keep topping it up, and it just blows out what it doesn't want. Mine does this. Let it spit out what it doesn't want, and then watch the temperature, just don'tlet it get too hot. Tom's idea of a thermostat is good, so is torqueing the head.
 
The service bulletins tell you to "bend "the overflow tube back under the threads, so it is harder for the water to get into it.
 
At speeds of 40-50 it overheats and blows coolant mixture out around the Quail cap onto the hood and windshield.
Click to expand...
bagpiper said:
Thanks for the replies,
The gaskets on the quail are both in place and look good to me. The overflow tube is clear. I don't know how to tell how many rows of tubes the radiator has? The baffle is in place and no oily residue. The head nuts were very loose. Torqued all in the proper sequence to 55 ft. lbs. Just found out that the timing pin is missing. I'll have to order one to check/set the timing. (Unless someone knows something that I don't) Boy, I left myself wide open there, didn't I. Looks like a lot of people know more than I do. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Like the others not trying to be as wise guy but if your gaskets were good no fluids could get on your hood and windshield.

As for how many tubes, look through the fins and see if you can count them. Maybe maybe not.
 
You certainly don't need that pin to set the timing. I use a skinny punch or even a phillips screw driver to find that dimple in the timing gear. More importantly, hope everything goes well at the Cleveland Clinic.
 
bagpiper said:
...Just found out that the timing pin is missing. I'll have to order one to check/set the timing.....
Click to expand...

The one time I forgot to re-insert the pin after timing the engine, it spit oil all OVER the place!

As another has said: you can use almost anything that will fit through the hole and which has a reasonable point (e.g., a Phillips head screw driver). You can order a replacement pin from the Model A vendors.

My overheating problem was caused by bad timing.

I also at one time had a clogged overflow and it spit coolant out through the quail. I had to add an additional home-made gasket to seal the quail properly. And with the coolant level set properly, I no longer have the wet-tail quail.

Regards,

Bill Lee
 
I had that problem on two seperate occasions and found that no matter how many new gaskets I put on it shot water out the top. I double stacked the gaskets and that solved the problem for my car. It didn't make "logical" sense to me that double staking would solve the problem, but it did. The other time I had problems with overheating, it was a tad more serious----it was a cracked block! You might want to check your oil and make sure there is no "milk" on your dipstick! As for your "ticker" get out there and drive because the serrenity and happiness that it will bring has to be a good thing for your heart-----works for me.

Jack
 
Yessir, i found that my A likes 2 gallons, and i put an extra o-ring on my Chi-meter too. Yesterday on my drive, i had just a tiny bit of pass by foam/water. After reading about distilled water, i'm going with a gallon of 50/50 and a gallon of distilled to eliminate the foam. I haven't seen a A motor yet that wouldn't blow out a match from the gap between the head and block( maybe exagerated). Sometimes, but not lately, mine weeps, cries, and i have to wipe it's tears ;)
 
bagpiper ....................
Try running straight white vineger in your car for a couple weeks. The V8rs swear by this. The commercial radiator cleaners, sold today, are almost useless, thanks to the EPA. The vineger can be nuetralized with a little baking soda.
MIKE :)
 
Jack '29 Sport Coupe said:
I had that problem on two seperate occasions and found that no matter how many new gaskets I put on it shot water out the top. I double stacked the gaskets and that solved the problem for my car. It didn't make "logical" sense to me that double staking would solve the problem, but it did. The other time I had problems with overheating, it was a tad more serious----it was a cracked block! You might want to check your oil and make sure there is no "milk" on your dipstick! As for your "ticker" get out there and drive because the serrenity and happiness that it will bring has to be a good thing for your heart-----works for me.

Jack
Click to expand...

Your right Jack, we do the same thing with the gaskets. On the T's they can take up to 3 stacked gaskets. Herm.
 
FL&WVMIKE said:
bagpiper ....................
Try running straight white vineger in your car for a couple weeks. The V8rs swear by this. The commercial radiator cleaners, sold today, are almost useless, thanks to the EPA. The vineger can be nuetralized with a little baking soda.
MIKE :)
Click to expand...


That sounds good Mike, I am going to try that before it gets limed up. They recommend that for lime in coffee pots. Herm.
 
here is what I found on my radiator. The radiator shell had worn a hole in the spout

IMG_2868.jpg
 
bagpiper,

Cead Mile Failte (and that is about all the Gaelic I can handle)

Lots of potential solutions have been mentioned. I suspect that one of them will solve the problem. I would suggest that if you don't have it, you should check out the usual Model A books from the vendors. Les Andrew's Model A Mechanic's Handbook has some good trouble shooting charts that will help you.

The main purpose of my post, however is to comment on your user name. Good to see that I am not the only piper who is a Model A Owner. Piping and Model A ownership both show a reverence to history and tradition.
 
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