Overdrive solenoids

zoegrant said:
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The KICKDOWN switch has power at both forward terminals but it will not kickdown to direct drive.
Click to expand...

The power to one terminal on the opposite end of the kickdown switch from the stem is coming from the coil with the ignition on. The connection between that terminal and the one opposite should be open. Your kickdown switch might be stuck in the kickdown position. If so, it would keep your governor circuit open and cause the relay not to work at kick-in speed.

The wire from the governor should not be connected to a terminal on the end opposite the mounting stem. It should connect to a terminal closest to the floorboard when the switch is mounted. A wire from the opposite terminal then goes to the THSW terminal on the relay.
Question: Is there voltage on the wire that should connect to the #6 wire on the solenoid?
 
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Zoegrant- do you have a56 ford service manual? Very good schematic of the OD electrical and good write up on function. If you don't have one, I will scan in a copy of schematic and send it to you.

Ben
 
I am learning from all of this. Is it possible that the kick down switch is out of adjustment and not fully engaging when the gas pedal is pushed down. Don't know if it would make any difference.
 
Check it with an Ohms meter. The two terminals toward the button stem are normally closed (button not depressed). The two farthest from the stem are normally open (not closed till the button is depressed all the way down). There is no connection between the two sets of terminals since they control two separate circuits with the same switch.
 
ROTOWRENCH...Just checked the kickdown switch with an ohm meter and the two front (closest to stem) do not have continuity.
The two rear connections (furthest from stem ) do have continuity.
This is opposite to your above post. Could this be the problem ?
 
Did you check the replacement switch? The one you took out could just be stuck. You might try some pliers to pull the stem back out.
 
Or installed upside down, if that's possible? If you installed it upside down and connected the wiring per the diagram then the wiring would be wrong and maybe causing the problem. Dunno, just throwin' it out there...
 
The OEM type switches are pretty simple inside. A spring holds the tension of the terminal jumper plate against the two terminals for the OD operating circuit. When the button is pushed, it forces the terminal jumper plate down, opening the normally closed set then on down to the other two terminal locations to close the normally open set.

I've not had to deal with reproductions yet so I don't know if they are different or not. One set of terminals should have continuity between each other with the switch in relaxed position. The opposite terminals should be open. This should reverse when the button is depressed. My guess is that there is a problem with the switch. The replacement should also be checked. My old 49 thru 51 Lincoln Mercury overhaul manual gives good diagrams and even shows the switch and how it is to be wired. I don't do any work without some maintenance information. The Borg Warner electric overdrive system didn't change a lot in the four decades that it was popular so most of the electrical components are the same whether its a Ford or a Studebaker. Exceptions were mostly for convertible models.

If something isn't working like it should then it will have to be repaired or replaced with something that does.

This switch looks and works just like mine do.
https://www.vintageautogarage.com/B...yI5gIVx_fjBx2WbA-AEAQYBiABEgIHkfD_BwE&click=2
 
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40cpe...not stuck as I did check it.

dobbiegillis...can not be installed backwards as the floor is cut with the flat side of the of kickdown to fit only one way.

rotowrench...the front two terminals on the kickdown have continuity until stem is depressed then continuity is broken.
The rear two terminals of the kickdown have no continuity until stem is depressed then there is continuity until stem is released. Is this the way it should be ??
 
The two terminals with continuity: one terminal has the wire from the governor connected,
the other terminal connects to the THSW terminal on the relay.
The two terminals withOUT continuity: One terminal connects to the distributor side of the
coil. The other terminal connects to the #6 wire on the solenoid.
 
The answer to this OD problem has to be something simple that I have over looked. Tomorrow I start again with fresh eyes...
Thank you to everyone for your ideas and suggestions.
I do have another solenoid on order...even if that is not the problem I will still have a spare.
Will keep all posted as to progress when made...
 
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It seems to me that one would follow the DIAGNOSTIC SEQUENCE in the correct year SHOP MANUAL rather than take hit-or-miss pot shots at it.
 
I am awaiting for a new relay to come in from Fifth avenue garage...will post when it comes in...thanks
 
Still waiting for my relay to come...will post after install. hopefully that will take care of the issue...
 
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