Overdrive cable sheath to ****** clip

zoegrant

zoegrant

Well-known member
The overdrive cable runs down the length of the ****** to the lockout lever where the outside sheath of the cable has to be made stationary so that the wire inside the cable sheath and move the lockout lever.
Does any one have a picture or is able to describe the "clip" that holds that sheath to the ****** ? I think the part # is 353350-S8.....thanks
 
Do you need an actual photo or an Ill?


411019
 
K...this diagram is just what I needed....what publication did you find this in ?
Any vendor sell the clip ? Thanks a bunch..
 
The Ill is from the FORD Master Parts Catalog for the period.

There is more than one service part on the assembly.

Where to find? Maybe start here - http://www.vanpeltsales.com/


Maybe a PARTS WANTED AD? It should be out there in someone's drawer or box.
 

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K.....found one from Hills T-Bird center catalogue page 136....a friend told me about it.
I am going to have to get me a Ford master Parts catalogue....thanks again for your help, John in CT
 
zoegrant said:
K.....found one from Hills T-Bird center catalogue page 136....a friend told me about it.

I am going to have to get me a Ford master Parts catalogue....thanks again for your help, John in CT
Click to expand...

THANX! for posting the source.

The 1949/1959 FORD MPC is available on CD. Just make sure it is marked FORD AUTHORIZED to get the real copy.

- EDIT -

Hills T-Bird Center - Catalogue Page 136
Click to expand...
411861
 
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Hey zoegrant, FYI: I don't know if you've replaced or removed the original clip yet, but for me, the clip and mounting bolt were much easier to access (in my '54 with the Borg Warner) with the overdrive solenoid removed. If the O/D unit is already out of the car, then of course no problem.



In addition, if you're ALSO replacing the original O/D control cable with a new one, remember that the clamp/clip you're talking about will attach at the fitting that's crimped on to the o/d end of the control cable. This means that wire length inside the sheath (which is longer than the sheath) will have to be the right length for this location in order to reach the lockout lever/arm. I mention this because the kit my replacement control cable came in specified that I cut the sheath and wire to certain lengths for my application, but when I did this it didn't match the original set up. No big deal cuz I used an alternate method of attaching the cable, but though I'd mention it. Hope this makes sense.
 
The OP should include what make & model of car or transmission. We don't all know what ya got unless you post it. There was more than one overdrive transmission in use in the 50s.
 
Maybe someone can tell me how to wire the OD in a 1956 Ford Fairlane with out using the kick down switch that became unattached from the fire wall and was replaced by a toggle switch. The toggle switch worked perfectly until it was decided to run new wires for the OD system that had old frayed wires.Ran new wires as in the wiring diagram but bypassed the kick down switch. Car runs great until at 40 mph, the toggle switch is turned on and the engine dies, no electrical power. Turn off toggle switch and power is returned. How can this problem be solved by wiring a different way ???
 
Tim Quinn,
It would have been better to start a new thread so answers & comments on your & zoegrant's questions don't get mixed up. It's something you can still do and I recommend it.
But since I already typed this comment before I noticed where I was...

Look very closely at the overdrive wiring diagram. There is a circuit in the oem wiring that momentarily shorts out the ignition points in the distributor so the engine hesitates, taking the load off the gears so the OD can safely shift. This may be what you have encountered.

It may be something before the 'white with red stripe' wire between the kickdown switch and ign coil on this diagram. (not the wire of the same color to the oil pressure switch)
Disclaimer: I haven't yet fixed the broken OD wiring in the '57 I have, so I'm still guessing too.

Wiring diagram link...
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring%20diagrams/Ford/MWire5765-195.jpg

.
 
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Thanks dmsfrr,
After I wrote this post, I read an artice by the fine people at VanPelt Sales about adding a ground strap to the solenoid. So the ground strap helped eliminate the complete shut down of the engine's electronics. BUT, it still won't go into OD.
Will play ( haha) around again tomorrow.
Good hearing from you,
Tim in Florida
 
Your switch for kick down may not be the correct type. The kick down switch controls two separate circuits with emphasis on separate. In the normal position, the operating circuit switch is closed and the kick down circuit is open. When the kick down button is pushed all the way, it opens the operating circuit and closes the kickdown circuit. You will need at least a double pole double throw switch to keep the circuits separate from each other. The bad thing about that is that it's a three position switch so it would have to be clicked through two positions for kick down and then back two for normal operation. If you left it in the mid position it will turn the system off. That might not be a bad thing though. It would act as a lock out switch if you are trailering or in the steep hills.
 
Re: Overdrive problem with electronics

Had a talk with Gene in Mississippi and he helped solve the problem by removing the coil wire altogether, it is not need.
He also said that the OD will operate with out a toggle switch. So after a road test, it is true. System will work with out a toggle switch. BUT, if you want a switch, run the wire to the governor to the switch.
Thanks again to Gene.
Tim
Happy, FL 33706
 
When you say it will operate without a switch, it's hard to say what switch it will do without. The system is an electric overdrive so it has a lot of switches that it will not work well without. If there is no kick down switch, a switch still has to be used to turn off the system so that the overdrive will drop out above governor on speed or it will not drop out at all and you still have to let off the gas to get it to drop out even after you take power away from the operating solenoid.

They use a relay switch on the firewall to turn the operating solenoid off and on plus the momentary kill of the ignition so you don't have to let off the gas to drop it out after its turned off. You can throw all the switches away except the governor switch and just use a single pole single throw stitch to function the operating solenoid but you lose all the features that make the system easy to use and you have to turn it off and on manually when you want it.

The wiring harnesses and switches are still out there so I don't see a purpose in doing the Rube Goldberg thing. A kick down switch won't break the bank and neither will a new wiring harness.
 
Not to mention that with the control cable pushed in (OD enabled) but the switch off the trans will freewheel at any speed whenever you let off the gas. Not a huge problem if you're aware of it but it can be a bit disconcerting when you're descending a grade and want engine braking. Best to stop and pull the cable out, locking the OD out. And be sure your brakes are up to snuff...:eek:
 
rotorwrench said:
When you say it will operate without a switch, it's hard to say what switch it will do without. The system is an electric overdrive so it has a lot of switches that it will not work well without. If there is no kick down switch, a switch still has to be used to turn off the system so that the overdrive will drop out above governor on speed or it will not drop out at all and you still have to let off the gas to get it to drop out even after you take power away from the operating solenoid.

They use a relay switch on the firewall to turn the operating solenoid off and on plus the momentary kill of the ignition so you don't have to let off the gas to drop it out after its turned off. You can throw all the switches away except the governor switch and just use a single pole single throw stitch to function the operating solenoid but you lose all the features that make the system easy to use and you have to turn it off and on manually when you want it.

The wiring harnesses and switches are still out there so I don't see a purpose in doing the Rube Goldberg thing. A kick down switch won't break the bank and neither will a new wiring harness.
Click to expand...

His kickdown switch was broken and is aware of replacements, but he just wanted to by-pass it. He was under the impression that a toggle switch had to be in place of the kickdown. He is aware of his options and has it the way he wants it now.
 
If the floor is rusted through so there is no place for a switch then that could be a problem till the floor is repaired. Sometimes communications are as clear as mud about what a person needs or wants to do. I don't care how he does it. My point was that it won't work without a switch. I just try to provide information as I understand it.
 
Re: Overdrive works with out wire to coil

RE Overdrive without an "on Off Switch" as in toggle or kick down.
The kick down switch was not working, it was removed and the wires from the relay and coil were reconnected without the kick down switch.
Overdrive didn't work.
To solve the problem, the + wire from the coil was removed. The wire to the governor stayed the same as was the other wire to the solenoid.
TEST DRIVE: All systems are GO. The governor cuts in at 28 mph and it drops out at 27 mph. Overdrive comes on after you let up on the gas at say 40 mph in 2nd or 3rd gear...........works great.
Gene told me that once the kick down switch was disconnected, the + wire from the coil was not needed......he was correct.
NOW: A on/off toggle switch can be installed on the wire to the governor if so desired.
Tim
Happy, Florida 33796
 
Most folks that hot wire them are installing an old R10 or R11 overdrive in a vehicle that never had one. They generally just use a 30-amp rated SPST toggle switch and run a high amp capacity fused wire to the switch and the other to the #4 terminal on the operating solenoid. This can be risky if a person doesn't remember to turn the switch off.

The removal of the kick down switch leaves no kick down function but it will at least still have governor function as long as the correct two wires are tied together off the kick down switch. The solenoid has to be turned off to get it to down shift to 1:1 drive or 2nd gear. A person just has to turn it off and let off the throttle till it free wheels for a down shift.
 
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