Out for a short cruise . . .

Hi Stan, make sure you have all the teeth on the rear end ring gear, I had one break off of mine, make one loud clunk and clunked every revolution going home. I would get it up on jackstands and go from there, starting by loosening the rear adjusters and pulling the drums, let us know how you make out.
Regards,
Barry
 
Update:
Well, I finally gathered up all the tools and extra hands required to begin the repair project. After inspecting the trans by removing the shifter tower, and then inspecting the differential with a scope, the suspicion was moved to the U joint. We removed the rear axle and differential with the spring still attached because the differential has a leak and we thought this would be a good opportunity to replace gaskets. And sure enough the U-joint was in pieces! (I know we love photos here so as not to disappoint, check it out!) In addition to replacing that and hopefully the differential gaskets, the trans had been a little noisy due to normal wear of gears, mostly the main cluster. I don't feel good about putting it back that way when it's all apart. So a rebuild of that is on the list as well.

Any hints, advice, or dos and don'ts about any of the above will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Stan
 

Attachments

  • Un Joint Sept 2017.jpg
    Un Joint Sept 2017.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 134
Glad you found it Stan. The u-joint is an easy fix compared to a major diff rebuild. Lucky"?" You. Jeff
 
I am thinking there should be a LOT more grease in and around that Ujoint.

There is a reason that area is double gasketed and the grease fitting lines up with hole in the dome piece. Be sure that when you reinstall it, you start with it packed with grease and after installed, take the grease gun and finish packing it with grease.
 
I am thinking there should be a LOT more grease in and around that Ujoint.

There is a reason that area is double gasketed and the grease fitting lines up with hole in the dome piece. Be sure that when you reinstall it, you start with it packed with grease and after installed, take the grease gun and finish packing it with grease.

Not sure about the quantity of grease - some was removed before the picture was taken. For the record it was installed over 30 years ago. I have ordered a "complete assembly ready to install. . ." I am assuming that would mean it's packed, but after install, I can hit it with the gun.
Thanks!
 
"Not sure about the quantity of grease - some was removed before the picture was taken. For the record it was installed over 30 years ago. I have ordered a "complete assembly ready to install. . ." I am assuming that would mean it's packed, but after install, I can hit it with the gun.
Thanks!"

Yea, just because they say it comes pre-packed with grease doesn't mean it's going to last another 30 years without adding the grease to keep it properly lubed. Think about it, there are 89 year old U-joints still running around because there have been proper maintenance done, which means continual packing with grease.

I believe the owners manual says to remove the speedo turtle and grease until it squirts out of that hole.That can be a LOT more than a simple tube of grease.
 
Check the shape of the new u-joint, some of them are not rounded enough
and will hit the inner u-joint cap.

Bob
 

Attachments

  • ujoint 1.jpeg
    ujoint 1.jpeg
    48.1 KB · Views: 43
Grease, we don't need no stinkin' grease.

Well, maybe a little Mystik JT-6 would help.
 

Attachments

  • U Joint no grease.jpg
    U Joint no grease.jpg
    57.4 KB · Views: 28
  • U Joiunt Grease 1.jpg
    U Joiunt Grease 1.jpg
    78.1 KB · Views: 30
  • U Joiunt Grease 2.jpg
    U Joiunt Grease 2.jpg
    73.5 KB · Views: 30
Yup grease grease and more grease. Altho mine spurted out like some terrible playdoh machine i KNOW its got plenty of grease. Glad your fixing everything else while the opportunity has risen.
 
Don't spare the grease Stan. I put about a full cartridge in mine. No wonder you heard a big bang!
Barry

yea I went thru about a 1lb can of grease for each U joint (AA - lucky me haha) I also coated the outside of the bell before assemblying the clam halves - sure the grease zerk lines up but I'm suspecting grease can/has to completely coat the outside of the bell or most of it before it forces grease thru the 2 tiny holes in the bell to fill the rather massive U joint cavity. Id rather have some spurt out upon assembly than too little grease.
 
A club member suggested that some will mix 600W with the grease. The theory being that with the circular motion centrifugal force eventually sends the grease outward leaving much of the joint with less than needed. With the 600 added it is more fluid and keeps the joint better lubed. So I thought I'd poll the Barn. Any comments on this method?
 
A club member suggested that some will mix 600W with the grease. The theory being that with the circular motion centrifugal force eventually sends the grease outward leaving much of the joint with less than needed. With the 600 added it is more fluid and keeps the joint better lubed. So I thought I'd poll the Barn. Any comments on this method?

if you jam it full of enough grease theres nowhere for the gease to "fling out" think of enough cookie dough (grease) in a mixing bowl (clamshell+bowl) going thru the beaters (u joint) - not all the cookie dough sticks to the outside...;)
 
I'm thinking about a full tube of corn head grease when I go back together with mine. I had very little grease in my old u-joint and the cavity when I took it apart recently. Surprised to find the old riveted u-joint still in good shape, no play in any of the joints. Maybe the transmission leak was just enough to keep it lubed.
 
Back
Top