Original vs Repo Light Switch

Mitch//pa

Mitch//pa

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The question has been asked at times of how to spot an original switch vs a repo. I am sure there were different repo's available over the years, so this is one I purchased about 2-3 years ago from a major vendor. Studying them side by side there are huge noticeable different designs
Here are some pics with the original on the Right Side..


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Mitch - thanks for the photo comparison. Do those differences affect functionality to any significant degree? It would appear that some of the differences might - perhaps those that change the position of the switch housing in 3D?

Dave
 
Pilotdave said:
Mitch - thanks for the photo comparison. Do those differences affect functionality to any significant degree? It would appear that some of the differences might - perhaps those that change the position of the switch housing in 3D?

Dave
Click to expand...

I tried to use the repo switch and found it was a terrible fit and the functionality felt different.. I shelved it and went with the original... Also note all the differences of the shape of the brass contact and the insulator under it..... Overall these two are easily distinguishable of each other from all angles... Not to mention how much heavier the original is in weight
 
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With an original in hand, such as you have, would it REALLY be that hard, to make a repo "exactly" as the original?
I'm sure the same material is out there, it's just a matter of faithfully reproducing them.
Me thinks "profit" is a huge deciding factor in production.
 
burner31 said:
With an original in hand, such as you have, would it REALLY be that hard, to make a repo "exactly" as the original?
I'm sure the same material is out there, it's just a matter of faithfully reproducing them.
Me thinks "profit" is a huge deciding factor in production.
Click to expand...
99% of the WORLDS' COMMOTION is geared to making BUCKS, think about it:confused:
Bill Analyst
 
I'm not confused over the profit angle in the least.
I just believe a faithful reproduction of an item would deliver a larger profit margin, as there are many who would pay a premium for an "as new original".
If they could make the item cheaply back in the late '20's - early '30's, surely, with today's technology they can do the same...only faster and cheaper, today.
Ask yourself...would you pay 5%-10%-25% more for an item that not even you could differentiate from the original?
 
Are all originals identical? I seriously doubt it. My chassis parts books (1928-37, 1939, green bible) show two covers ("long", "short") and matching bails and B- part numbers... with a third bail for 2 tooth sectors only (not indicating which cover to use, A- part number). The same base shows a B- part number 1928-37 and and 81A- for 1938-39. The big caution here is that sometimes Ford simply changed a A- to a B- in 1932, and sometimes had a different part which back interchanged (ie, 1932 works on 1931... 1931 does not work on 1932).

My experience suggests with a part with a 10-12 year run there may be different suppliers and running engineering changes which would not affect function but details would be different. So without exhaustive research to show what was actually installed original, or as a Ford supplied replacement with the same part number, the visual comparison is not valid to suggest what is "original".

The next issue the the competency of the reproduction. DOES IT FUNCTION? What is it a copy of? 1928?, 1934? 1937? Is it the "long" or "short" version. AND THE VENDORS SHOULD KNOW (And know to recommend the correct bail). And I am guilty of this... this is the first time I have researched this question. And yes, I hope to find a answer so I can serve customers better (as do many vendors).
 
The venders sell a fits all replacement 28-31.... One size...!!!!!!!

Originally
There is a late 1928/29 assy. with the short bottom.. 30/31 was longer, same top.. The top assy. has two different style ones for the Mid & V.Early 28s.
 
burner31 said:
With an original in hand, such as you have, would it REALLY be that hard, to make a repo "exactly" as the original?
I'm sure the same material is out there, it's just a matter of faithfully reproducing them.
Me thinks "profit" is a huge deciding factor in production.
Click to expand...

It sure doesn't look like rocket science to exactly duplicate it:rolleyes:
 
I've just had a supposedly NOS 1932 top part only (switch bit) arrive from eBay. It looks the same. However, it had been used and the brass ring had dislocated. The tabs on the brass ring look like they will break off easly. In the photo above the tab areas look like they have been center punched?
Anyone know how to attach it in a goodly manor?
 
updraught said:
I've just had a supposedly NOS 1932 top part only (switch bit) arrive from eBay. It looks the same. However, it had been used and the brass ring had dislocated. The tabs on the brass ring look like they will break off easly. In the photo above the tab areas look like they have been center punched?
Anyone know how to attach it in a goodly manor?
Click to expand...

I was studying the tabs today on my original switch. They are bent on a slight angle on both sides. I can take a close up tomorrow as its at the shop if needed.
 
The reproduction one I have is terrible for function and fit. I ordered a new spyder yesterday, mine looks bent. The wire clip is really tough to get on and the horn honks when I select park light position, by the way where should the headlight switch point when the lights are off ?
 
Switch should point down, 6 o clock position with lights off.
Them new spyders are very fragile, always buy two, and I've had to file the center square to fit over the horn rod.
The bottom of the horn wire has a plastic sleeve, if it's original a piece may be broken off causing your horn issue, a new horn wire is easy to install with a soldering gun and a fine metal file.
If i recall the spyder will be at 11 and 5 o clock with the switch off, or 6 o'clock. You may have to play with it some to get it right.
 
I use a original switch on all my As. You will hear a "Click" and there's no slop when you turn the lights on.
I look for the oil covered switches with caked on dirt at the swap meets.
 
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