Original Style radiator

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Plainsman30

Member
My original radiator runs about 190 degrees when it is about 80-85 outside, which I think is too warm. I will likely never show the car again, but I like the looks of an original type radiator core. However, I do not want heating problems after replacing the radiator.
I have been thinking about a Brassworks show quality radiator with the hand dimpled core face to make it look more original. Was anyone had experience with how well they cool? Thanks,
 
The dimple fin radiator will be a good choice. While some hobbyists will tell you that any straight-fin radiator will be fine, 'why do you suppose Ford spent the extra money to manufacture the dimpled fin in lieu of a straight fin?
 
Most of the new radiators will be just fine, but, you say it overheats. At what speed? If you are getting 190 on a hot day at steady 45 mph, your radiator is good enough.
 
FWIW: Original 80+ Year Old Radiator Care 101; written years ago:

So many "original", functional well made Ford parts "incorrectly" already often made it to the junk pile; however, if you like the looks of your original radiator, and you are willing to experiment just a little, you may .... or may not .... want to try this one "vintage" recommended method to successfully clean "vintage" radiators overnight:

A. Many original radiators are still in use & still work just great. Some were professionally cleaned by rodding out mineral deposits, some were not; and some were cleaned with detergents and other methods, and also some were cleaned as described herein by a Model T and Model A most respected technical expert, Mr. Victor Page, who wrote articles years ago.

B. Radiator geographical location is important because of different types of water and anti-freeze used and added to Model A radiators; e.g., well water with lots of mineral deposits, water from water filtering plants, rain water that never touched earth, stream water, lake water, river water; plus numerous types of different antifreeze materials etc., etc.

C. In his book, (not read often today), Victor Page explains "why" radiators cease to cool engines:

1. Even if we exclude harmful cast iron engine rust deposits and/or grease from over-greased water pumps clogging tubes, the water in different localities contain foreign matter, either in suspension or solution, which will form a powdery deposits in radiator tubes; and it does not take too much scale to reduce the ratio of heat conduction between the heated water inside of the tube and the cooling air currents which are circulated about their exterior.

2. Some anti-freezes used, salt, such as calcium chloride, as a base which after time may deposit solid matter in the form of crystals; whereas cheaper glycerin based anti-freeze solution had a chemical reaction that deteriorated engine cast iron water jackets and contributed to rust deposits in radiator tubes.

3. Radiator tube "incrustation" is caused by carbonate of lime, which in some waters becomes a bicarbonate; thus when engine coolant is heated, the carbonic acid is driven off and the carbonate is precipitated in the from of a muddy deposit, which hardens in the presence of heat into a non-conducting scale where heat is greatest and which remains in the form of a powdery deposit in radiator tubes.

4. Sometimes other deposits are in the form of sulfate of lime.

5. A solution of "Lye", (Caustic Soda) "will" clean out water spaces in radiators, and will "cut" both rust and scale, and will "dissolve" rust, or loosen them sufficiently so the deposits may be thoroughly flushed out with water or steam under "pressure."

6. Cleaning Method:

a. First fill entire cooling system with water; then drain cooling system to "measure" contents of cooling system liquid.

b. Dissolve solid lye in water with a ratio of: 2-1/2 pounds of solid dry lye to one (1) gallon of water ..... thus mixing enough to fill the entire cooling system. Stir constantly because heat is generated when mixed. When the liquid has cooled, add to radiator opening.

c. Allow mix to stay in radiator overnight, drain in the morning, and flush with clean water under pressure.

d. WARNING: Read all lye caution labels and cautions on line for handling lye, such as wear protective glasses; do not allow lye- mix to get on one's skin or body parts or on painted metal; etc. etc.

7. Finally he states that the reason water contains so many impurities is because it is one of the best know solvents; pure water is never found in nature and can only be obtained by distillation. He also mentions that the purest "natural" water is rain -- (this was prior to our present air pollution), which has "not" touched earth.

8. Many suggested radiator cleaning methods can be found on line -- many work successfully -- some do not.

9. Just one (1) inexpensive "vintage" something anyone may want to think about in the future prior to discarding an old original Model A radiator.

10. Also, once cleaned, it can never hurt to provide "distilled" water in Model A radiators.
 
I have a special water purifier for drinking water at my home. The water goes through three filters and has very little minerals.

Tastes good and I use it in the Model A.

Marc
 
I wonder why you do not try one of the radiator cleaner products and run it for a while and then flush it rather than rush to purchase another radiator? Those infra red thermometers from Harbor Freight for $20 - $30 are handy to find "Cool Spots" in the radiator when hot to indicate clogs and show flow and dispersion of heat.
I use distilled water, $1 per gallon at the super market or chain drug store.
 
One (1) radiator cleaning solution from actual "hands on" experience:

My "original" Model A radiator that came with my 1930 Town Sedan was protected by a radiator guard whereby the fins appeared perfect; however, its interior tubes were encrusted, full of deposits, full of grease, and dirty when I got it.

Even though not advertised specifically as such, and after having experience with this miracle POR Marine Clean cleaning product, I called the POR 15 manufacturers for advice.

POR 15 manufacturers highly recommended POR 15 for "harmless" cleaning of vintage radiators.

(Also found that POR 15 Marine Clean works far better than any carburetor cleaner to remove petroleum product tar, gum, and varnish from carburetor parts).

Anyway, for under $25.00 a gallon, I found that this water based POR 15 Marine Clean worked.

Drain radiator, pour in one (1) quart of POR Marine Clean and add remaining water to the Model A cooling system -- run engine with it, drain it, and it can be strained through cloth and re-used until the tubes are immaculate.

Tried advertised "Prestone" radiator cleaner with flushing attachments ...... it worked about as well as well as one trying to cut twenty-seven (27) acres of grass with your wife's dullest pair of rusty scissors.
 
The car runs between 180 and 190 under most driving conditions, and maybe closer to 195 if I push it hard on a 85 degree day. I just put in a newly rebuilt engine last month, and it runs about the same temp as the "old" motor did. My "old" engine was magnifluxed 15,000 miles ago and had no cracks. It did have some small cracks around the valves now when we took it apart. I don't remember boiling it over, so was concerned that maybe it the water temperature had something to do with the cracking.
 
Even if the water temperature is 212 degrees, while circulating in a "full" Model A cooling system, the block will not crack.

Also ... if one's engine is cool, (say at 100 degrees ambient temperature), adding 212 degree boiling water to it will not make it crack.

Here is a recipe for successfully "cracking" a Model A block "every" time:

1. Allow the engine to overheat with a low coolant level or with "no" coolant.

2. Then rapidly pour in cool water when the engine is "not" running; and/or "no" water is circulating up to the top of the radiator tubes.

3. One hundred percent (100%) "guaranteed" method to crack a Model A block "every" time.
 
Plainsman30 said:
My original radiator runs about 190 degrees when it is about 80-85 outside, which I think is too warm. I will likely never show the car again, but I like the looks of an original type radiator core. However, I do not want heating problems after replacing the radiator.
I have been thinking about a Brassworks show quality radiator with the hand dimpled core face to make it look more original. Was anyone had experience with how well they cool? Thanks,
Click to expand...


The ideal operating temperature is approximately 160 to 195 degrees. Cylinder wear is reduced when an engine operates between those temperatures. The original radiators are better in fit if they still function to keep the engine in the operating range.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
FWIW: Original 80+ Year Old Radiator Care 101; written years ago:

So many "original", functional well made Ford parts "incorrectly" already often made it to the junk pile; however, if you like the looks of your original radiator, and you are willing to experiment just a little, you may .... or may not .... want to try this one "vintage" recommended method to successfully clean "vintage" radiators overnight:

A. Many original radiators are still in use & still work just great. Some were professionally cleaned by rodding out mineral deposits, some were not; and some were cleaned with detergents and other methods, and also some were cleaned as described herein by a Model T and Model A most respected technical expert, Mr. Victor Page, who wrote articles years ago.

B. Radiator geographical location is important because of different types of water and anti-freeze used and added to Model A radiators; e.g., well water with lots of mineral deposits, water from water filtering plants, rain water that never touched earth, stream water, lake water, river water; plus numerous types of different antifreeze materials etc., etc.

C. In his book, (not read often today), Victor Page explains "why" radiators cease to cool engines:

1. Even if we exclude harmful cast iron engine rust deposits and/or grease from over-greased water pumps clogging tubes, the water in different localities contain foreign matter, either in suspension or solution, which will form a powdery deposits in radiator tubes; and it does not take too much scale to reduce the ratio of heat conduction between the heated water inside of the tube and the cooling air currents which are circulated about their exterior.

2. Some anti-freezes used, salt, such as calcium chloride, as a base which after time may deposit solid matter in the form of crystals; whereas cheaper glycerin based anti-freeze solution had a chemical reaction that deteriorated engine cast iron water jackets and contributed to rust deposits in radiator tubes.

3. Radiator tube "incrustation" is caused by carbonate of lime, which in some waters becomes a bicarbonate; thus when engine coolant is heated, the carbonic acid is driven off and the carbonate is precipitated in the from of a muddy deposit, which hardens in the presence of heat into a non-conducting scale where heat is greatest and which remains in the form of a powdery deposit in radiator tubes.

4. Sometimes other deposits are in the form of sulfate of lime.

5. A solution of "Lye", (Caustic Soda) "will" clean out water spaces in radiators, and will "cut" both rust and scale, and will "dissolve" rust, or loosen them sufficiently so the deposits may be thoroughly flushed out with water or steam under "pressure."

6. Cleaning Method:

a. First fill entire cooling system with water; then drain cooling system to "measure" contents of cooling system liquid.

b. Dissolve solid lye in water with a ratio of: 2-1/2 pounds of solid dry lye to one (1) gallon of water ..... thus mixing enough to fill the entire cooling system. Stir constantly because heat is generated when mixed. When the liquid has cooled, add to radiator opening.

c. Allow mix to stay in radiator overnight, drain in the morning, and flush with clean water under pressure.

d. WARNING: Read all lye caution labels and cautions on line for handling lye, such as wear protective glasses; do not allow lye- mix to get on one's skin or body parts or on painted metal; etc. etc.

7. Finally he states that the reason water contains so many impurities is because it is one of the best know solvents; pure water is never found in nature and can only be obtained by distillation. He also mentions that the purest "natural" water is rain -- (this was prior to our present air pollution), which has "not" touched earth.

8. Many suggested radiator cleaning methods can be found on line -- many work successfully -- some do not.

9. Just one (1) inexpensive "vintage" something anyone may want to think about in the future prior to discarding an old original Model A radiator.

10. Also, once cleaned, it can never hurt to provide "distilled" water in Model A radiators.
Click to expand...
I have "revived" a few radiators using lye. I would never do it in the car due to paint damage and I only leave it in about 20-30 minutes. Back flush good to rinse.
 
Plainsman30 said:
My original radiator runs about 190 degrees when it is about 80-85 outside, which I think is too warm. I will likely never show the car again, but I like the looks of an original type radiator core. However, I do not want heating problems after replacing the radiator.
I have been thinking about a Brassworks show quality radiator with the hand dimpled core face to make it look more original. Was anyone had experience with how well they cool? Thanks,
Click to expand...

If you buy an new one I'll take your old one. Core scrape value is about 35.00 here in South Florida. I'll pay 50.00 plus shipping. Seriously.
 
If it was my car I'd install a 180* thermostat and 50% antifreeze and drive it. If it's a new engine I would do several heat/cool cycles to give it a light break-in then drive it like the little old lady for the next 1000 miles, then drive it like it was meant to be driven. If you want to drive faster then 45 for miles, then I'd use a high speed rear end or overdrive.

I wonder what's in Marine Clean?
It sounds like it would be useful as a radiator cleaner if it doesn't hurt non-ferrous metals.
 
Thanks all for all the help. I think I will stick to stock radiator for now as it sounds like it won't due harm to the engine. Sounds like the Brassworks radiator should be a good choice for later.
 
I had an original radiator that didn't do the job. Towing at 50 mph in temperatures in the low 30's, it would boil. Replaced it with a Brassworks unit. No improvement, in fact, it ran about the same. I conclude from that the old one was in OK condition and was not clogged or crusty inside or the new one would have shown an improvement. I still have the old one so it could have been worse.
 
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