Original style hose-clamp leakage ?!

Special Coupe Frank

Special Coupe Frank

Well-known member
Okay... I have newish (red-stripe) hoses on my A, new radiator (Brass-works), and newish lower water pipe.

Had oem-style clamps at all the "correct" locations.

Upper hose clamps were drawn-up all the way, till there was no adjustment left, and things were still weeping. Replaced them with modern worm-drive clamps. Weeping stopped.

Fine.

Drive car over the weekend, and again yesterday evening. On the evening jaunt, noticed the temp gauge heading for 200*F after only 10 minutes driving... usually it takes about 15 minutes to get to 160*.
Pulled -over, and it easily took a gallon of water.

Things cooled-down immediately, car ran normally, got home, went inside for the night.

Today, I come out of the house, heading for the modern iron, and noticed a puddle under the A, with a drip... now it's weeping from the lower hose at the radiator :mad:... still using OEM clamps there...

For now, I'm going to switch those clamps to modern worm-drive clamps too...

Has anyone else had this trouble with the "authentic" style clamps ?

Are there different levels of repro clamps ?

Is the flat "tail" from the one side supposed to go "over" or "tuck under" the opposite side ?

Thanks...
 
Hi Frank, Had the same problem with the original style clamps. I pulled the hoses off and put a little silicone sealant around each pipe after wiping both the pipes and inside the hoses real good and then slid on the hoses and tightened the clamps up pretty tight, I waited til the next day to fill up the radiator been leak free for 2 yrs now. Still carry extra modern clamps in the tool box just in case. Clyde
 
It has been my experience that it is hard to seal the hoses with the original clamps if the surface under the hose is not clean and smooth. The castings seal well when they are glass beaded, casting irregularities filled, primed, sanded smooth and painted. The radiator inlet, outlet, and the lower tube must as round as possible. I prefer to use the new stainless lower tube supplied by Aries. I tuck the "tail" on the clamp under the opposite side. Gar Williams
 
To get a good seal that is also then easy to remove the hose later, apply a light film of "Hylomar" original blue flange and gasket dressing to the inside of the hose and then slip hose on. This stuff is amazing. I use it on all my vehicles when I put a radiator or heater hose on. Permatex used to sell it, I'm not sure if they still do. I get mine at W W Grainger. If you believe the manufacturer, the Advanced Formula version of this stuff will also help seal a head gasket from weeping. I have not tried it yet.
 
The repro hoses I purchased were thinner gauge than the original hoses.
Result, original hose clamps would not draw up enough.
 
I tried the newer hose clamps because they were pretty on my new enging.Could not get them tight enough to seal.So i cleaned up the originals and put them back on and now all is good RAY
 
I never had a problem with original hose clamps. I did have a problem with the casting line on the top outlet. After grinding the parting line smooth all was well. As Gar mentioned, make sure the sealing surface is smooth.
 
The long narrow tab on the clamp tucks under the opposite end placing it against the hose.

It sounds like the problem may in fact be junk hoses. If they are unreinforced rubber they can stretch. I'm betting that the hose is gathering at the joint in the clamp and creating an opening at that point.



 
I'd bet Marco is right, and a bit of Vasoline or talc under the clamp might help things slip together like the should.
 
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