Original points vs V8 points ??

J

James G.

Senior Member
Boy I sure do like the original A points, sooo easy to gap check/set!! Still, I also greatly appreciate having the condenser on the upper plate. Why not marry the two???
Has anyone actually mounted original A points on the modern upper plate where the condenser is located???
My 31 Tudor is a touring pleasure. I've visited from Georgia to Nova Scotia, to WI, and to Louisiana. What I must have is maximum reliability and ease of servicing.
How about it --?? Has anyone here performed this marrage, original points on modern upper plate??

What have you tried, what worked and what didn't???
Thanks for your comments and thoughts.
Jim Gregory
GBMAFC
 
James G. said:
Boy I sure do like the original A points, sooo easy to gap check/set!! Still, I also greatly appreciate having the condenser on the upper plate. Why not marry the two???
Has anyone actually mounted original A points on the modern upper plate where the condenser is located???
My 31 Tudor is a touring pleasure. I've visited from Georgia to Nova Scotia, to WI, and to Louisiana. What I must have is maximum reliability and ease of servicing.
How about it --?? Has anyone here performed this marrage, original points on modern upper plate??

What have you tried, what worked and what didn't???
Thanks for your comments and thoughts.
Jim Gregory
GBMAFC
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Jim, my first reaction to your question is 'Why'??


My personal experience says there is not really a need any longer.


We must go back and remember what the advantage was when NuRex introduced the 'modern' plate for Model-A distributers. At that time, reproduction capacitors/condensers were junk and would burn-out with frequency, and the reproduction point tips were not made with Tungsten which just made for a poor ignition system. During that same time, any local auto parts store had Ford V-8 points & condensers in stock which meant the likelihood of you getting stranded due to a faulty ignition system was rare.


Fast-forward 40 years, and you will find that today most local auto parts do not carry ignition points & condensers since around 1974 or so was the last Ford vehicles to use points or condensers, --however today there are quality made original points, stock-location burn-proof condensers that work well, and quality made points cams for the distributer that leave no excuse for not using the stock type system.


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BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Jim, my first reaction to your question is 'Why'??


My personal experience says there is not really a need any longer.


We must go back and remember what the advantage was when NuRex introduced the 'modern' plate for Model-A distributers. At that time, reproduction capacitors/condensers were junk and would burn-out with frequency, and the reproduction point tips were not made with Tungsten which just made for a poor ignition system. During that same time, any local auto parts store had Ford V-8 points & condensers in stock which meant the likelihood of you getting stranded due to a faulty ignition system was rare.


Fast-forward 40 years, and you will find that today most local auto parts do not carry ignition points & condensers since around 1974 or so was the last Ford vehicles to use points or condensers, --however today there are quality made original points, stock-location burn-proof condensers that work well, and quality made points cams for the distributer that leave no excuse for not using the stock type system.


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.
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Wow! That was said as clearly and logically as I have ever heard anyone say it. Good job, Brent.
I would also add that many of the so called "modern" (1957-1974) ford points are now made who knows where, and the cheap plastic rub block will wear quickly and close up the point gap, and we all know where that leads.
I have no trouble with original points, and have had the same condensers in my cars since I bought them from Al Lepore many years ago. He pioneered the "burnout proof" model A condenser, and I have had great results with them. I also use original plates in my distributors, replated and looking and working like new. The cheap modern lower plate has a flimzy contact for the cable, and it does not perform like a good original.
I think there is no replacement for a properly restored Original part. (except perhaps the crappy original fan)
 
Never looked at it this way but it makes sense. I'm going to put together a stock set up now.
 
I am back to stock points again as now the problem is finding good “modern” points and especially good condensers.....
 
Do people that put their cars away for the winter find that they always have to clean up the original style points when they get their car out for the season?

I never had to do that with the set that was in when I started taking care of our car after my grandfather passed. I think I set the gap once in 3 years and that was it. Forgot the key on one night, burned up the points and replaced them with a new set. Always need to be cleaned before we get the car out for the season now.
 
Good to know, well then it's probably just been the luck of the draw.

On a semi related note, how well do peoples stock points align? I got a new upper plate last week and while it seems like everything will work the alignment is off even with the point block pushed back as far as it will go (see picture).
 

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The fixed points Block has screws underneath, the holes should be larger to allow for adjustments----- I have only used original parts that don't have alignment problems, reproduction parts may need modifications to work
 
Yeah, there's one larger hole and one smaller and the point block can pivot a little bit. I'll just take a file to it. Everything else about it seems to fit properly.
 
I tried the "modern" plates in my Roadster and ran into the problem that the new points were junk, so I went back to the original ones. I have had original points close up on a trip (1,700 miles), but regapped them in about a minute on the side of the road and kept on going. You can't do that with modern ones. As for the points not aligning with the point block, there are some replacement upper plates out there that the holes are a bit off. I don't know when they were made (possibly in the '60's or '70's) but you can either get a good plate from one of the suppliers, or wallow out the holes (really a temporary fix) to correct the issue.
 
I've seen more problems with the point block (not holding the adjustment screw tight, not staying tight against the upper plate, etc) than I have the points. I always carry a spare point block in my troubleshooting kit and have probably replaced four or five of them for people over the past 20 years.
 
stewwolfe said:
I've seen more problems with the point block (not holding the adjustment screw tight, not staying tight against the upper plate, etc) than I have the points. I always carry a spare point block in my troubleshooting kit and have probably replaced four or five of them for people over the past 20 years.
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Funny you should mention that. Upon further examination I found that the new point block wasn't holding the points parallel with the plate. It was off by a couple degrees maybe 5. Cleaned up the one off the old plate and after enlarging the holes in the plate everything fits as it should.

I should draw up a point block that will fit the repro plate and fix the alignment. Aluminum should work. Whats the original? Zinc?
 
ryanheacox said:
Funny you should mention that. Upon further examination I found that the new point block wasn't holding the points parallel with the plate. It was off by a couple degrees maybe 5. Cleaned up the one off the old plate and after enlarging the holes in the plate everything fits as it should.

I should draw up a point block that will fit the repro plate and fix the alignment. Aluminum should work. Whats the original? Zinc?
Click to expand...

I have no idea what metal it's made of. I always assumed (I know what that does to you and me) that it was pot metal (did aluminum exist in 1928?). I just did a magnet test on my spare and it's non-ferrous.
 
ryanheacox said:
Do people that put their cars away for the winter find that they always have to clean up the original style points when they get their car out for the season?

I never had to do that with the set that was in when I started taking care of our car after my grandfather passed. I think I set the gap once in 3 years and that was it. Forgot the key on one night, burned up the points and replaced them with a new set. Always need to be cleaned before we get the car out for the season now.
Click to expand...

Ryan, I frequently drive my Model A's throughout the winter, when weather permits, but I remember that I used to place an oil soaked piece of paper between the contact point faces on my motorcycles when I laid them up for the winter in Mass.
 
Learned a long time ago that to increase chance of successful startup, clean/gap points and plugs before reviving my A and my old motorcycle every spring. Sometimes there is condensation or the effects of condensation, etc. Plus if it doesn't want to start or does not run up to snuff, I've eliminated that possibility and I've checked ignition connections. quick and easy to do.
 
stewwolfe said:
I have no idea what metal it's made of. I always assumed (I know what that does to you and me) that it was pot metal (did aluminum exist in 1928?). I just did a magnet test on my spare and it's non-ferrous.
Click to expand...

I'm sure you're right, it's got to be some sort of pot metal. It has that look to it. If I were to remake one I would use aluminum is what I was saying. Also, great tip on the oil soaked paper. I'll have to remember that.

30 Closed Cab PU,
That's basically my spring startup procedure too although I crank it a couple times first just in case it wants to fire right up.
 
Hummmm! Replacement upper plate qualaity?? I wonder just how many other replacements for "original parts" have this kind of issue?
I'm thinking that for now, at least, I'm gonna stick with my current "old reliable" and put up with point gap adjustment when needed.
To bad no one has put the original points on the new upper plate. That combination would be just perfect. Everything right there in front and easy to service.
Jim G.
 
I don't think there would be much benefit to putting stock points on a NU-REX plate. The repro upper plate looks like it fits very well in the distributor. The only problem I had is mounting the point block and fixing the alignment.

The more I think about it the problem could lie solely with the repro point block being out of spec.
 
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