Original Model A radiators

Jeff/Illinois

Jeff/Illinois

Well-known member
I bought two a while back at auction, they are really in pretty nice shape both 1930-31's.

Short of pressure testing, is there a way to determine if the core metal is weak or deteriorated? I've gently tugged on the fins at random with a pair of needle nose pliers and they seem tight at the vertical flute connections from what I can see. They have been dry for at least 30 -35 years sitting in a heated garage. I knew the guy that had them. Thanks.
 
If you have an old balloon bicycle inner tube you could cut it in half and slip it over the intake and output pipes, screw on a good radiator cap, and cap off the overflow pipe, then inflate the tube just slightly like 1 or 2 lbs. pressure. Now you can submerge it and look for air escaping.
 
Pressure testing like Tom indicates is a necessity. But no more than Tom indicates.

It's not really possible to test for the fin/tube solder interface. Corrosion of the solder is common and except for your tweezer/needle nose plier approach difficult to evaluate.

Ditto for the internal condition of the radiator. A lot of these were set aside simply because they have become plugged and the former owner had problems with overheating - so they bought a new radiator and set the old one aside. Other than a clean/boil out (which can open up a whole bunch of other new problems) there isn't a cure for that either.

The nice thing about the vinegar wash that Tom has done and reported on is that it is done all "internal" to the radiator. The radiator "boil out" that I've seen done at the shops is usually done by "dipping" and cleans off the paint on the outside of the radiator as well as the internal surfaces (imperfectly I might add.)

And only rodding can assure in either internal or external boil-out case about a tube truly being "clean."

But by then you're nearly at the point of a re-core. Same labor PLUS labor to do the rodding (and repairs when he splits a tube - they're seamed, of course.)

But not original - what price originality?

Joe K
 
:cool: I am very lucky in the radiator department. Our '30 Deluxe Coupe - "Annie", is still sporting her original radiator. Bought from the original owner in 1958, the car has just turned (last week) 64,012 miles - original!

I have personally had the radiator boiled out professionally twice in the years under my care. The look of the original is very nice and proves the quality that Mr. Ford put into his products back then. Thank you Henry and Edsel!

Be well -

SHEC
 
2 quarts of muriatic acid flip radiator end for end for 20 min.drain flush and do again better than vinager and radiator shop boil out cheaper to been doing it for years you will be surprised what comes out don't let it sit in 1 spot keep it moveing saved a lot of orig. rad. that were boiling over.
 
billy myers said:
2 quarts of muriatic acid flip radiator end for end for 20 min.drain flush and do again better than vinager and radiator shop boil out cheaper to been doing it for years you will be surprised what comes out don't let it sit in 1 spot keep it moveing saved a lot of orig. rad. that were boiling over.
Click to expand...

30 years ago I did the same thing with my uncle's combine radiator, and it developed about 20 pin hole leaks in the core. I never did it again, but wasn't sure if it was too blame for all the leaks.:mad:
 
If you can find someone that is experienced, I would sure recommend having it rodded. That is the only way to clean totally plugged tubes. Had that done to my original 1930 radiator several years ago...it had about 20 tubes plugged, since then works great...never overheats. Someone inexperienced will likely overdo it and break through the tubes..........
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
30 years ago I did the same thing with my uncle's combine radiator, and it developed about 20 pin hole leaks in the core. I never did it again, but wasn't sure if it was too blame for all the leaks.:mad:
Click to expand...

It sure was! You can get another 15-20 years out of a core with thin spots in the tubes (wich muriatic acid would burn through) in non pressurized system. Now I'd spend big bucks for a good radiator to not have to worry about such things but good ORIGINAL radiators are getting tough to find.

Jeff/Illinois said:
I've gently tugged on the fins at random with a pair of needle nose pliers and they seem tight at the vertical flute connections from what I can see.
Click to expand...

If they are indeed original then everywhere you grabbed a fin with needle nose pliers you damaged that fin. Original cores had fins that were rolled under approximately 1/8" along both front and rear edges. The roll was NOT a sharp fold but left a hollow area as "roll" would suggest. This provided strength to retain shape. When you crush a spot it not only weakens it but stretches the fin in that spot adding a ripple that's just short of impossible to cure.

I have a pair of needle nose pliers (no time for a pic) that I relieved both jaws slightly with my Dremmel beginning about 3/16" from the tips to about 3/8" from the tips. On those rare occasions where I find a wrinkled fin that needs to be pulled outward I can grip it with the pliers and the relieved areas will clear the rolled edge and grip the fin just beyond.

Also as noted, an original radiator should not be pressurized more than 1-2 psi as that will be enough to determine leaks. Many radiator shops ruin serviceable radiators assuming they need to function an in a pressurized system and may in fact not be able to limit the pressure appropriately. I'm sure when new they would handle plenty of pressure but we are simply trying to preserve originals including functionality.
 
Won't be the first time I messed up an original part by not being careful. But from things I've learned by reading the Fordbarn, will darn sure be the last. Thanks.
 
racer32 said:
Is there any way to determine if tubes are blocked without taking the radiator apart?
Click to expand...

I was able to borrow a small inspection camera and stick it in the takes to view the tube ends. This was a big help, and without the camera I might have removed the bottom tank and gently run a long thin drill bit up each of the round tubes of my 1928 radiator.:eek:

There are long thin blades to run through the flat tube radiators.
 
Radiators may get plugged up by the use of anti freeze with silicates as an ingredient. There will be small white deposits on the tops of the tubes if this is the case. Nothing will remove them them so a rodding is in order.
 
Just to add a little bit to the info here,...I've always used only distilled water in radiators. Trying to stop the deposits inside a radiator before they happen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top