- City
- San Jose
- State
- CA
- Price
- In ad
** SOLD **
Unrestored original 1933 Ford roadster hopped up with all period correct parts. Car is not running but would take very little to finish and have it on the road. Photos of the car are available here:
http://public.fotki.com/jazzedtobehere/1933-roadster-pictures/
Efforts were taken to make the car period correct from the late 40’s early 50’s and not disturb the patina of this car.
Asking $42,000 obo (no trades, buying another car)
Please call Phillips at 415-518-8776 for more information.
Body:
• Excellent condition, everything original Henry Ford, never apart, no patch panels, no bodo, as nice of an unrestored roadster as you’ll find. The floor has a few spots where there is some rust but the floor does not need to be replaced.
• Top bows excellent condition but some wood trim is missing around body
Chassis:
Original chassis with the following:
• ’36 Ford rearend with 3.50 gears with shortie hydraulic shocks
• ’39 Ford ****** with Zephyr gears
• Juice brakes all around with new wheel cyclinders
• Original pedals with Early V8 hydraulic conversion
• Original front axle dropped 3”
• ’56 Ford F-100 steering box
• ’40 Ford wheels with NOS Mercury hubcaps
• New Goodrich bias ply tires
• Original unsplit bones front and rear
• Re-cored original radiator (unpainted)
Engine:
• 1950 Mercury (4” stroker) with basically NOS original Cyclone 24 stud heads, Cyclone 3 deuce intake, large 97 Strombergs, new water pumps, etc.
• Engine runs great; carbs need rebuilding.
• Have alternator, fan, side mount bracket, etc. but no generator
Misc:
• I have the original headlights (pictures show ’33 commercial lights currently on car)
• Not sure if the gauges and speed work
• Extra set of original windshield posts chopped 2”
• New Mr. Roadster chrome windshield frame to go with chopped posts
• Misc parts.
To make it a driver:
• New brake lines run and bled; install e-brake.
• New fuel line run and install electric pump (assuming breather installed in manifold)
• Lower crank pulley made to match water pumps
• Rebuild carbs, run fuel lines, install linkage and fuel pedal
• Weld rear shock brackets to frame
• Wire car
• Replace windshield
• Plug water hole on pass side of block
• Buy and install front shocks
• Adjust column for pedals
• Install speedo cable
Unrestored original 1933 Ford roadster hopped up with all period correct parts. Car is not running but would take very little to finish and have it on the road. Photos of the car are available here:
http://public.fotki.com/jazzedtobehere/1933-roadster-pictures/
Efforts were taken to make the car period correct from the late 40’s early 50’s and not disturb the patina of this car.
Asking $42,000 obo (no trades, buying another car)
Please call Phillips at 415-518-8776 for more information.
Body:
• Excellent condition, everything original Henry Ford, never apart, no patch panels, no bodo, as nice of an unrestored roadster as you’ll find. The floor has a few spots where there is some rust but the floor does not need to be replaced.
• Top bows excellent condition but some wood trim is missing around body
Chassis:
Original chassis with the following:
• ’36 Ford rearend with 3.50 gears with shortie hydraulic shocks
• ’39 Ford ****** with Zephyr gears
• Juice brakes all around with new wheel cyclinders
• Original pedals with Early V8 hydraulic conversion
• Original front axle dropped 3”
• ’56 Ford F-100 steering box
• ’40 Ford wheels with NOS Mercury hubcaps
• New Goodrich bias ply tires
• Original unsplit bones front and rear
• Re-cored original radiator (unpainted)
Engine:
• 1950 Mercury (4” stroker) with basically NOS original Cyclone 24 stud heads, Cyclone 3 deuce intake, large 97 Strombergs, new water pumps, etc.
• Engine runs great; carbs need rebuilding.
• Have alternator, fan, side mount bracket, etc. but no generator
Misc:
• I have the original headlights (pictures show ’33 commercial lights currently on car)
• Not sure if the gauges and speed work
• Extra set of original windshield posts chopped 2”
• New Mr. Roadster chrome windshield frame to go with chopped posts
• Misc parts.
To make it a driver:
• New brake lines run and bled; install e-brake.
• New fuel line run and install electric pump (assuming breather installed in manifold)
• Lower crank pulley made to match water pumps
• Rebuild carbs, run fuel lines, install linkage and fuel pedal
• Weld rear shock brackets to frame
• Wire car
• Replace windshield
• Plug water hole on pass side of block
• Buy and install front shocks
• Adjust column for pedals
• Install speedo cable
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