Original Headlight socket & connector hardware

Frank,

Look at the size of the contacts between Tom's first photo(inside the socket) and
your repops. Are yours about twice as big in diameter? That's were I think a lot of the
problem is.
 
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D.J. Moordigian nailed one of the big problems, and that is the contacts are too large a diameter. Here's a picture of repro sockets for the 1930 AA I'm working on. My friend had the same problem and he filed the contacts diameter down a bit. I'll use my Dremel with a grinding stone to do the same.
 
Here are photos of 1930-31 original headlight sockets as requested by Al in NY. They have been rewired but the plating is original.

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I use a piece of drinking straw around each terminal to isolate them from each other. The straw gets compressed when the plug end or bulb is inserted. Has worked for me but is a bit finicky.
 
DSCN3429.jpg

DSCN3430.jpgI need some clairification from they guys that have made the repop headlight connectors and plugs work.
I purchased my sockets, plugs, plastic wire connector holder thingey, and brass wire terminal ends from Brattons.
If I understand correctly, I should remove the bullet end and solder on a brass terminal end.
Note the second picture, the brass connector end does not fit flush against the end of the connctor thingey. It that normal? Does the connector thingey need the hole drilled out a bit so the brass terminal fits flush?
I see where using a dremel to grind the spring loaded treminal ends helps keep them from shorting as well as using some heat shrink around the base as well.
 
david801 said:
View attachment 142250

View attachment 142251I need some clairification from they guys that have made the repop headlight connectors and plugs work.
I purchased my sockets, plugs, plastic wire connector holder thingey, and brass wire terminal ends from Brattons.
If I understand correctly, I should remove the bullet end and solder on a brass terminal end.
Note the second picture, the brass connector end does not fit flush against the end of the connctor thingey. It that normal? Does the connector thingey need the hole drilled out a bit so the brass terminal fits flush?
I see where using a dremel to grind the spring loaded treminal ends helps keep them from shorting as well as using some heat shrink around the base as well.
Click to expand...

Bratton's catalog gives you the measurement that should be there from the back of the insulator to the tip of the brass terminal.
 
david801 said:
View attachment 142250

View attachment 142251I need some clairification from they guys that have made the repop headlight connectors and plugs work.
I purchased my sockets, plugs, plastic wire connector holder thingey, and brass wire terminal ends from Brattons.
If I understand correctly, I should remove the bullet end and solder on a brass terminal end.
Note the second picture, the brass connector end does not fit flush against the end of the connctor thingey. It that normal? Does the connector thingey need the hole drilled out a bit so the brass terminal fits flush?
I see where using a dremel to grind the spring loaded treminal ends helps keep them from shorting as well as using some heat shrink around the base as well.
Click to expand...

David,....this should help......Single bulb headlight question....let us know.
 
David, looks like you have the brass end in the wrong side of the plug, letters on the plug go toward the bottom, you can take a rotary tool with a cut off blade and reduce the height of the repop end and it'll work just fine
 
Steve, Im not sure I understand you. The brass terminal in the second picture is in the side of the plug with the color code letters. The holes for the terminal are larger on that end. I tried to insert the brass terminal into the other end but the only way it would fit was with a hammer. The latest Bratton's cataloge(page 80) says "Plastice plug part (20810) with coded letters R,Y,G are facing the headlight bucket".
I think the previous posting about the overall length of the plastic plug and brass terminal together are .680", so the brass terminal must stick out above the plastic plug? Thanks eveyone for the comments.
 
d.j.; my configuration has the three wires in the socket and is a repo all the way from the harness to the bulb. So its not very similar to what you have.


rscardina, That diagram is helpful. The main point I missed was that the combined langth of the black plastic socket with the bullet or brass terminal installed is 11/16 or .680". I cut off the bullet ends and soldered on the brass terminal ends. They look like they will make a better contact than the bullet style. I was trying to make the terminal end flush with the end of the black plastic socket. After reading everyones advice, I got the socket done. I ground down the diameter of the contacts inside of the main socket and the center bulb socket. Then I cut some heat shrink tubing about 1/4" long and put it around each of the springs behind the contact and heated it up with a pencil style soldering iron. Hopefully this will keep it from shorting. I just got it all assembled and and the lights work fine. It will be interesting to see how it holds up after a few years.
 
the extraordinary number of views, and comments, on this subject sure indicate an intense interest in resolving difficulties with these repro sockets. I sure hope I live long enough to see a quality reproduction...but they better hurry LOL.
 
Hi Eystein,

On 02-18-2013 - 10:53 p.m. wrote an article herein entitled:

Sockets for Original Headlights

Extremely poor quality of "NEW REPRO" headlight sockets stories appeared to be a type of Forum Religion that if one bought them, their headlights would never function correctly -- true salvation to "see the light" came only through obtaining "Originals" on E-bay, swap meets, etc. -- then, after several years of this preaching, "Originals" were close to impossible to find.

My original sockets were too far gone because of former makeshift repairs with solder, & new wire wrapped with cloth tape.

The old religion was most accurate when repro parts a few years ago were pure junk; however, I called Mr. Walt Bratton who replied that in the past 6-7 years he had no complaints with the "NEW REPRO" sockets he currently offered -- he said if they were not good, customers would have called him to complain or would have returned them -- he said if I was not content with them, just return them for a refund.

Trusted his honest reply -- bought some from him & first tested durability by shaking them vigorously with bulbs inserted while connected to a 6-V lamp battery -- could not make them fail no matter how hard I shook them.

Soldered a ground wire on each to route back through the light conduits to a ground on the radiator.

After installing, absolutely no problems with his "NEW REPRO" headlight sockets.

Have no idea if other vendors offer these same "NEW REPRO" headlight sockets.

Just hope this helps someone who may be interested in trying to find replacement Model A headlight sockets.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Hi Eystein,

On 02-18-2013 - 10:53 p.m. wrote an article herein entitled:

Sockets for Original Headlights

Extremely poor quality of "NEW REPRO" headlight sockets stories appeared to be a type of Forum Religion that if one bought them, their headlights would never function correctly -- true salvation to "see the light" came only through obtaining "Originals" on E-bay, swap meets, etc. -- then, after several years of this preaching, "Originals" were close to impossible to find.

My original sockets were too far gone because of former makeshift repairs with solder, & new wire wrapped with cloth tape.

The old religion was most accurate when repro parts a few years ago were pure junk; however, I called Mr. Walt Bratton who replied that in the past 6-7 years he had no complaints with the "NEW REPRO" sockets he currently offered -- he said if they were not good, customers would have called him to complain or would have returned them -- he said if I was not content with them, just return them for a refund.

Trusted his honest reply -- bought some from him & first tested durability by shaking them vigorously with bulbs inserted while connected to a 6-V lamp battery -- could not make them fail no matter how hard I shook them.

Soldered a ground wire on each to route back through the light conduits to a ground on the radiator.

After installing, absolutely no problems with his "NEW REPRO" headlight sockets.

Have no idea if other vendors offer these same "NEW REPRO" headlight sockets.

Just hope this helps someone who may be interested in trying to find replacement Model A headlight sockets.
Click to expand...

H.L., are you saying that Walt has different sockets than other dealers?
 
Hi Eystein,

1. "H.L., are you saying that Walt has different sockets than other dealers?"

A. Not at all ............ but, Mr. Bratton says he has offered "different" "New Repro" sockets for at least the past 6-7 years from those that he offered in the past, & as I stated above in message #35; & furthermore stated that:

B. "Have no idea if other vendors offer these same "NEW REPRO" headlight sockets."

3. In my opinion, these often herein mentioned respectable Model A vendors are always striving to provide the best available Model A parts available at the time -- always appears rewarding to try to do the right thing.

4. Not a bad idea to call or e-mail questions to persons "in charge" of a Model A vendor's company to see what is available at a particular time. Sometimes best to go with vendors who also offer original parts -- & each to his own.

Just hope this helps you & others.
 
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well, H.L., five lashes with a Model "A" terminal box-to-generator wiring harness for me (the '30-'31 version), I should have read your comments more thoroughly. I confess this subject has been a source of huge frustration for me and I jumped the gun.
 
Hi,

We all learn as we go & we will never quit learning if we continue to seek helpful solutions to problems.

Bottom line is:

1. It appears that it may be quite possible to be able to put an end to this continuing Model A "Repro" headlight socket problem if one orders sockets from either Mr. Bratton, or any of one's favorite Model A vendors, "providing" that they promise that they can supply the exact same repro sockets as Mr. Bratton, or can supply better sockets than those sold by Mr. Bratton. Really have no idea who has what.

2. After reading so many messages about terrible, repro junk headlight sockets on this Forum & the other Forum for many years, I called Mr. Bratton for his advice, & found that his "latest" headlight sockets worked well!

3. Even though his were available for 6-7 years, with many satisfied customers, appears nobody took the time to report that these sockets worked well.

4. Then after testing & finding out that they performed well, just to help others, I wrote a headlight socket message mentioned above, (maybe number 9,673 or so), just to alert Model A owners with what appeared to be refreshing Good Headlight Socket News.
 
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H.L., in post #35 you stated you ran a ground wire back to ground at radiator, I am switching from sealed beams back to original but need sockets, my sealed beams were grounded to headlight bucket, how were the originals grounded, thanks for all your info.
 
I agree with Snyders suggestion. I wire mine direct with bullet ends and double female connectors. I can really see no reason to struggle with a sometimes difficult attachment that doesn't show. I have found the direct connection to be fail safe.
 
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