Original Coupe

30A

Senior Member
What is the best way to treat Ford original paint finish and surface rust?

Best way to treat original interior and floor mats, too?

I probably should post these questions separately. Thx Steve
 

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If it was my car I wouldn't touch it other than an occasonal wax job! What a gorgeous car! The originality gives it character and it is only original once.
 
What a super duper car!

Do not use any wax that requires rubbing as that will speed up the loss of the original paint. As for the floor mat, it looks like it could use a good cleaning with a soft cloth dampened in soapy water following by one of the non-organic rubber preservative sprays.
 
That car is soooo nice! I don't really know how or what to advise you to do to keep it that way other than lots of TLC and keep it in environmentally controlled garage space to prevent/reduce deterioration.
 
This is a most gorgeous car and a 5W to boot. You must definitely have fun re-vitalizing the original paint, and here is how I am doing mine. It is amazing how the original paint holds up. To repaint the car would be turn it into ‘another nice coupe’, so for a while, maybe a long while, bring back to life what is there. I have the very same situation with my ’35 W, and here is what I am doing…..places where the original paint is still good, wet sand with 1000 – 1500 paper…very gently and go slow. When spots of rust appear, knock down the worst crud. It may bring it to the bare ‘rusty’ metal, but it’s there anyway. The idea here is to have a flat surface to match the thickness of the original paint. With the fine sandpaper, act as if the surface rust parts blends in with the painted area. It is SLOW work, but a work of love, and you can only do a small area at a time. The next step is to take a medium compound to remove the remaining oxide and sanding marks. Then move on to a finer compound before waxing. By the way, I never use an electric buffer to polish…not enough paint left to do this….I do it all by hand. In some areas, you may be down to the primer….that’s ok….polish this too like the paint. Experiment a bit in areas that are not as important….you will learn quickly what works and what does not. The finish is now call ‘patina’, and don’t we all love these ole Fords in this state. PS…great exercise to keep you in shape.
Robert
 

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30A....my pleasure. Need to clarify one thing, where the paint is fairly good, just use fine compound by hand...no sanding necessary.....Enjoy.....Robert
 
This one came out of a barn after resting for nearly 50 years. I just went over it lightly with rubbing compound to take the barn crud off.
 

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WOW that car is nice!!!Whats the story behind it?
Joe

Thanks, the story is a fellow in Minnesota purchased the car when he was 18 (he is now 78) and planned to put an Olds engine it. One thing or another got him sidetracked...marriage, kids, work, etc...it sat in his barn for 54 years. Fortunately he never got around to putting that motor in it. I bought it in December from a fellow Barner, John Alinder who purchased it from him 6 years ago. John changed the gas tank and blew out the gas lines and got her running. Everything works including the dome light. I have driven it about 50 miles before putting her up on the lift for maintenance. All the fluids have been drained and the trans oil was like sludge. One of the rear shocks is locked up and in the process of getting them rebuilt. Some surface rust but no holes what so ever. I was amazed at the original floor pans with only surface rust. No rust in the usual areas like where the running boards meet the fenders, etc.

The car has 35,000 original miles and has few bumps and dings but overall in great shape with near perfect grill, fenders, etc. I am honored to be its caretaker for the time being and want to do the right things for her.

I would like to know the best way to remove and treat the surface rust underneath. Phosphoric acid, Kroil, oil? I would like to dust off the loose rust, treat it in some way and not harm what little paint is left underneath and in the trunk.
 
My forty ford was in the same condition, to save the seats, I always had a heavy navajo looking blanket covering the front seat at least. I never wore through the original material for the 30k miles that I put on it. The paint, I sprayed Pledge furniture polish on it. I tried to treat any rusted area under the car with DP-90 after I cleaned off most of the rust and in no time it looked it very original. I had spots on the hood where the heat from the motor made the paint just fall off. I finally had to spray some black DP-90 on those spots. This is what I did, good luck as you have a super car.
 

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My forty ford was in the same condition, to save the seats, I always had a heavy navajo looking blanket covering the front seat at least. I never wore through the original material for the 30k miles that I put on it. The paint, I sprayed Pledge furniture polish on it. I tried to treat any rusted area under the car with DP-90 after I cleaned off most of the rust and in no time it looked it very original. I had spots on the hood where the heat from the motor made the paint just fall off. I finally had to spray some black DP-90 on those spots. This is what I did, good luck as you have a super car.

Your car is awesome!!! Thanks for the input!
 
First, do no harm....

What a beautiful car.

It's perfect the way it is. In the course of trying to repair it, don't muck it up. As a former museum curator, I would advise that anything you do, make certain it is reversable. The car is worth far more the way it stands.
 
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