Optimistic engine build

[lance leblanc]

Went to pick up my freshly built engine from the small machine shop in west FL. where it has been since Sept.
Sadly but at the same time optimistically I elected to not bring the engine home yet as he wants to tweak my carb. and replace my flywheel then leave it on the run stand for a complete break-in.

"If I brought it home now, it would have to sit beside an unfinished chassis. But what a motivator to hear and see it run!"

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Just curious, what does the fan do with the radiator mounted that far away? And I guess he feels comfortable snagging the front with the hook in the water pump. I know Henry's boyz did that way too but I think they grabbed it a little more under the studs didn't they? The rest (radiator placement, etc.) makes sense I suppose.


I do have one other question for the masses, ...awhile back we discussed something along this line so I'll hi-jack this thread and ask it here. If he or someone were to put a small load on the engine to aid in break-in, how much of a load (in horsepower) do you think the stock crankshaft pulley could safely withstand?

Also, how much of a load do you think is necessary to ensure proper break-in? Are we thinking 3-4 horsepower, --or 10 horsepower??

.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

And I guess he feels comfortable snagging the front with the hook in the water pump."END QUOTE"

You are right Brent, the water pumps are weak any way, and all the pressure would be side ways, on the casting, as well as up, he is taking a heck of a chance!

There are also some pumps with hair lined cracks in the body, that go unoticed!

Yes, the pressure should be under the 4 studs, under the casting.

Herm.

 

[Mitch//pa]

He probably has an electric fan on the radiator

 

[lance leblanc]

I guess that's why posted the photo, I too was concerned about the hook on the water pump. Well truth be told I am concerned about everything. When asked he did tell me thats how Henry did it. Optimistic was my point. It's my first model A engine build and there are several reasons why I chose this builder. Most of which, being able to hear it running on the stand and the 12 month warranty.

 

[lance leblanc]

This may show my ignorance but why would he not hook it at the head using a spark plug eyebolt.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

There is a big difference in the way Ford lifted the engine with a rigid fixture (as Herm shows) vs. the way your engine man is lifting with 2 hooks. I'd never hook a water pump like that. Ford's way is plenty safe and puts the force right at the base of the water pump.

 

[MikeK]

...how much of a load (in horsepower) do you think the stock crankshaft pulley could safely withstand?

Also, how much of a load do you think is necessary to ensure proper break-in? Are we thinking 3-4 horsepower, --or 10 horsepower??

The fan belt is a wide B profile belt. Over an iron pulley of that diameter about 2 horsepower before you need to go to a double pulley to avoid the high side-tension needed to prevent slipping. That kind of side-load can't be good for break-in of the front seal and bearing.

Ideally the engine rear crank flange should be attached to a brake like a dyno hydro pump to properly load the engine in a driving configuration. Too much break in spinning without load will glaze over the rings and do little to establish a bearing burnish in the same load places as driving.

I'd start with 20 minutes fast idle to adjust things, then shut down, cool, retorque. Then cyclic loading from 0-25 horsepower (35mph driving load) during a second 20 minute thermal cycle, retorque, followed by a third 20 minute cycle with excursions to full breakdown load at 2500 rpm and 3500rpm. About 1 hour total running time spread over three 20 minute thermal cycles.

After that, road break-in. Hard and fast.