Opinion on T5 drivability

I agree......The center section needs to be removed and to get at the rivets on top would be a big pita with the body on. It would be hard to bolt on the new parts as well. My pickup floor removes so I could get at both sides. The T5 was lowered down to the ****** mounts from inside the cab. You would have to install it pretty much just the opposite way. I also already had a panhard bar, you will need to add something sim if you keep the transverse rear spring. The only welding I had to do under the truck was to weld on the tabs for the new Hot Rod Works torque arm kit that stabilizes the rear wishbone.
 
I talked with the Modern Driveline guy at the GNRS. They seem to have the T5 stuff figured out pretty well. Including the shifter location.
 
I think the T-5 is the best thing that ever happened to the flathead. I don't like the S-10 unit because of the Low first gear, however for the early engines in stock applications, works very well. You have to drive one to understand how practical they really are. I like the Ford and lat GM case as this makes it easier and less expensive to install behind the 8ba style engines. The adapter is only $170, and all the stock clutch linkage can be used. I'm not sure,but I think this can also be used with a Hogs head, by drilling and tapping a few holes. I have on in the roadster.. Research your application and if you must run a closed driveshaft, compare it to a rear axle up grade.
 
LOTS of different trans ratios in the various T5 offerings. Just in Mustangs, you could get a 1st gear anywhere from 3.35 to 2.96, and Overdrive from 0.68 to .86 or something. Cannot remember the exact numbers, but there is a huge range. Your choice of rear axle would depend on the trans used. If you use an S10 trans, you'll probably want the 3.54. If you use a mustang unit with a 2.96 first gear, a 4.11 might be better. Just be sure to research transmission ratios before you buy one. I've not done this, so that's all I have to offer to this thread. Wise advice, would be to listen to those who have done this a few times. The guy that offers the kits would likely be a good source of info. Good Luck
 
I installed an S-10 T5 in my '48 Sedan several years ago, behind an Olds engine, using a Chevy 10 bolt rear end setup. It fit in the existing X-frame fairly well with only a little trimming. I didn't like the really low 1st gear, as it wound out at only about 20 mph or so, then you had a wide gap to 2nd gear. It was good for getting rolling tho. I loved the overdrive on the road, however, with a 3:36 rear end ratio, road speed was very good, keeping the RPM's down.

The trans wasn't strong enough for the Olds' torque tho, and shelled the 2nd gear pretty soon. At that point, I decided I needed something stronger, so I found a Muncie four-speed and went to work on installing that. I soon found out that room for the side-shift mechanical was nonexistent, so I modified the X-frame extensively. (I don't recommend this approach with the body on the car, for obvious reasons.) It worked out pretty well, but required a longer driveshaft and a little more floor modification for the Hurst shifter. I need to pull it again, tho and check it out, as it jumps out of 4th gear regularly. It doesn't shift as smoothly as the T5 and of course, doesn't have overdrive.

I may have to go back to a Tremec with stronger innards, as I really liked the overdrive. Even with the 3:36 gears and 15 inch tires it seems to need another gear, as RPM's are about 2500 at 60 mph or so.
 
hook00pad said:
I installed an S-10 T5 in my '48 Sedan several years ago, behind an Olds engine, using a Chevy 10 bolt rear end setup. It fit in the existing X-frame fairly well with only a little trimming. I didn't like the really low 1st gear, as it wound out at only about 20 mph or so, then you had a wide gap to 2nd gear. It was good for getting rolling tho. I loved the overdrive on the road, however, with a 3:36 rear end ratio, road speed was very good, keeping the RPM's down.

The trans wasn't strong enough for the Olds' torque tho, and shelled the 2nd gear pretty soon. At that point, I decided I needed something stronger, so I found a Muncie four-speed and went to work on installing that. I soon found out that room for the side-shift mechanical was nonexistent, so I modified the X-frame extensively. (I don't recommend this approach with the body on the car, for obvious reasons.) It worked out pretty well, but required a longer driveshaft and a little more floor modification for the Hurst shifter. I need to pull it again, tho and check it out, as it jumps out of 4th gear regularly. It doesn't shift as smoothly as the T5 and of course, doesn't have overdrive.

I may have to go back to a Tremec with stronger innards, as I really liked the overdrive. Even with the 3:36 gears and 15 inch tires it seems to need another gear, as RPM's are about 2500 at 60 mph or so.
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I used a World Class T5 out of an Iroc Camaro in my '33 coupe with a 4.11 geared Ford 9". I have a 383 Chevy stroker that put out 602 hp on the engine dyno and so far the trans has held together fine. I know their not rated for that, but so far so good and I have 60,000 miles on the trans. I push it hard as well, so I can't imagine a problem even with a hopped up flathead, if you use one of the World Class versions.
 
I have a 1993 WC T-5 in my 35 coupe. I have a Ford 9" rear with a 3.25 posi. It works well with the 3.76 1st gear and .76 final drive
 
Henry Hopper said:
I’m mulling over what to do with my 36..it drives nice as a stocker but I wouldn’t want to take it any great distance.

I’ve had several early Fords and I’ll be honest, the three speed transmissions really put me off driving them.The box is in fine fettle and works as well as it ever will but it’s just so agricultural, I want better ratios and slicker shifts ideally.

I’m asking people who have fitted a T5 to their Flathead ,what is it like now?Does the trouble and expense make it a worthwhile swap and do you find that you use the car more after a he swap.
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I have a model A 2 door with a T5 and 8 inch 4.10 rear end.
I drive it almost every day in the summer. Not so much in winter as I don't like washing salt off the underside.
I have had a 150 hp flathead 4 banger, a 323 ci flathead v8, a 350 SBC and a blown Olds in the engine compartment at various times.
I have the #202 gear set with the .86 OD. This was the closest ratio common gear set there was available for these transmissions when I built it. I have the late synchros. I have a mechanical speedo. I have an additional bushing at the end of the tail shaft housing to reduce wear on the slip joint. I have a 2 inch rise short throw shifter also. The knob on the 14 inch shift stick moves 4 inches from 1st to 2nd. I run ATF in it and it will shift as fast as a Lenco.
Be careful with the fast shifts and big horsepower though. These things are only rated at 310 ft. lb.

Every one has different driving styles, requirements and places they drive.
One transmission and rear end setup does NOT fit all.
You have to determine YOUR parameters and build a transmission to suit YOU or you will not like the results.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I've done these types of jobs with the body on the frame . . . what a complete PITA. To be honest, in every case I would have saved time, money and a ton of aggravation if I'd pulled the body. Also, the results would almost always be better.

First of all, any fabrication/welding you have to do is really difficult when you can only access things and weld from below. There will be quite a bit of work in the frame center area - no way around it. Then think about the master cylinder setup, brake lines, wiring, etc . . . the list goes on and on.

So - seriously think about pulling the body and making your life easier and the work a lot better.

My 3 cents! LOL
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So true. Good advice, Dale.
 
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