Opening The Teapot

RalphG

RalphG

Well-known member
Trying to open up the spare Holley teapot carburetor that was on my 53 Merc parts car. Probably for the first time ever. Is there some secret skill or technique to remove that top bolt, the one the air cleaner hold down threads into? Without twisting it off? This one is so tight I don't dare try any harder as I know it will twist off. Soaking in penetrating oil right now. The manual makes it sound easy. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H1901-1952/MCarbHoll1901195222.html
 

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Ralph, I have done many, many teapot style Holley carbs in my lifetime, and haven't yet run into this issue. Unfortunately there is no way to heat the area the stud threads into without removing the top.
Don't know what to tell you other than what your already doing. Also, if it does snap off, the threads are not 1/4 - 20. It's a finer thread.


Sal
 
scicala said:
Ralph, I have done many, many teapot style Holley carbs in my lifetime, and haven't yet run into this issue. Unfortunately there is no way to heat the area the stud threads into without removing the top.
Don't know what to tell you other than what your already doing. Also, if it does snap off, the threads are not 1/4 - 20. It's a finer thread.


Sal
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Thanks Sal. I will proceed with caution.
 
Ralph,


If you take the bowl off of the base, I think the bottom of the hole that the stud screws into might be visible (drilled through). Maybe some heat carefully applied there will help. Also another spot for penetration oil or PB Blaster. Too much heat may ruin the small spring inside of the brass power valve that is in that area. Also the lead shot channel plugs.



Sal
 
You might ty a deep well socket on an impact wrench turned down as low as you can get it.. As far as heat is concerned, the bolt is steal, heat it and let it travel down, or stick it in an oven at about 350 F
 
Set it base down on a block of wood such that it is sitting solid, not on any linkage or throttle plates. Then give the end of the stud a few good raps with a hammer. Should shock it loose.
 
Thanks for the ideas but now it is too late. After a few hours of soaking with penetrating oil I tried it. There was slight movement in both directions with the 5/8 open end wrench. After doing that for a while I guess metal fatigue set in and it suddenly got easy turning. I have a new project for tomorrow now. If I remember right we had to do the same thing on the original carb on the 52. I knew a guy that could fabricate a new bolt with the right thread luckily and we got that one working. Hardest part now will be to drill out the stump without damaging the carb threads.
 

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tubman said:
2GC's are better carbs anyway (unless you are a restorer).
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I'm satisfied with the original equipment except the accelerator pump seems a little weak on the one I'm using. So I thought I would try a rebuild on this spare carb.
 
Thems teapots' got coined the towering infernal. Don't know why.


Post on the 53 up forum. Better knowledge there on the carb.


Although Sal is really the guy to ask about the teapots. He knows them.
 
51 MERC-CT said:
Because the 9510 series carbs were used on many newer vehicles, I believe up until the mid 1960's.
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Agreed, but I think the one he is talking about would be the two barrel and the ones after 53' would have been 4 barrels...I could be wrong....it wouldn't be the first time. Either way....better safe than sorry, to get the answer you need to get the job done.
 
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