open trailer tie down methods?
- Thread starter Gary WA
- Start date
green30coupe
Senior Member
I use 4 axle straps with 4 ratchet tie-downs. I loop the axle straps over the radius rods then hook the tie-downs to them. I "cross tie" both the front and rear so the car cannot move sideways or back and forth. (from left side of car to right side tie-down ring on trailer, etc.) Emergency brake on and car in gear. I never want my car to move on the trailer if in an accident.
Ed
Ed
Bruce Adams
Well-known member
I go straight fore and aft with the straps since with crossed straps, if one fails, ht car can swing completely across the trailer.
Pack the car VERY far forward on the trailer to improve higher speed handling without sway.
Harbor freight sells a low priced anti-sway bar that is kind of a brake from the trailer to the hitch, cross-wise on a diagonal, reducing sidewards movement of the trailer.
Pack the car VERY far forward on the trailer to improve higher speed handling without sway.
Harbor freight sells a low priced anti-sway bar that is kind of a brake from the trailer to the hitch, cross-wise on a diagonal, reducing sidewards movement of the trailer.
denis4x4
Well-known member
Ditto on the 2" ratchet straps. I buy mine from Speedway Motors with the axle loop as they are made in the USA and only a few bucks more than HF. Since I often times winch a car on, I'll double wrap an axle strap around the front axle and use the winch hook/cable for a fifth attachment point.
The hardest thing to do is throw away a tie down strap when it's chaffed or cut!
The hardest thing to do is throw away a tie down strap when it's chaffed or cut!
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Fred K-OR
Well-known member
I do the same except I cross the straps in the back. I wrap them around the drive shaft in the back.
Mitch may have a point. His way could be a better way to do it.
Jack '29 Sport Coupe
Well-known member
All good suggestions. The only thing I would add would be to "chock" the wheels.
Jack
Jack
2manycars
Well-known member
All these suggestions are good, and all are tying to the axels, which is the safest way to tie the car. Some might think of tying to the bumpers or frame, but it is best to tie to the axels and let the car flex on its suspension, rather than try to confine the spring movement, as a big bump might dislodge the tie downs. Car on gear with the brake applied is additional security.
Clydes 31 P/U
Senior Member
My straps are straight out front and back by the spring perchs. If you check my album there is a picture of my open trailer I built and of the chocks I made from 4X6 treated lumber they are drilled with 3/8 bolts running through them and into holes in the trailer deck, these stop you when you pull on and I have another set that go behind the front wheels. I carry a small floor jack to lift the front end to put the back chocks in thier holes. It took some trial and error to get the truck positioned right where I wanted it to be before I drilled the deck. I have used it several times and never had a problem, most recently last Friday wished I'd have taken some pictures of the truck on the trailer. Clyde
I use the straps that go around the wheels. Front wheels are then tied down with 3 inch ratchet straps to the front of the trailer. The rears go toward the back. All four get attached to D rings I have bolted to the frame with grade 8 hardware. If you were stopped by the DOT they would be looking for the load to be tied down pulling to the front as well as the rear.
I also use two 2X4 blocks bolted to the deck to stop the front tires. These make it easy to position the the car on the trailer and have the correct weight on the hitch. This makes it easier to tow as well as control your towing vehicle. Electric brakes are a must.
I also use two 2X4 blocks bolted to the deck to stop the front tires. These make it easy to position the the car on the trailer and have the correct weight on the hitch. This makes it easier to tow as well as control your towing vehicle. Electric brakes are a must.
Alway cross tie. If your straps are in good shape they won't break. If their not
in good shape or older than 5 years old replace them. After 5 yrs. the holding power
drops off. If you have to tighten them up more than once in your travels. Replace
them.
If a car is not cross tied it will move during transport.
in good shape or older than 5 years old replace them. After 5 yrs. the holding power
drops off. If you have to tighten them up more than once in your travels. Replace
them.
If a car is not cross tied it will move during transport.
ScottNW/Ohio
Senior Member
However you do it - don't do it like my 'boneheaded' brother did -
My sister and her husband found a "nearly perfect" Turbo Thunderbird several years ago, exactly like the one they bought new when the 'Bird was introduced back in the '80's. But it was in Indiana and they are in the U.P. - since my brother thought the car "bounced too much" on the trailer, and was worried about the springs and shocks, he threw 2 4" straps ACROSS the front and rear fenders, and cranked it down - it solved that problem - it didn't move anymore, but proceded to collapse both rear quarters and both front fenders. My sister could have killed him - they ended up scrapping the car, so much for the 'free' transport.....
My sister and her husband found a "nearly perfect" Turbo Thunderbird several years ago, exactly like the one they bought new when the 'Bird was introduced back in the '80's. But it was in Indiana and they are in the U.P. - since my brother thought the car "bounced too much" on the trailer, and was worried about the springs and shocks, he threw 2 4" straps ACROSS the front and rear fenders, and cranked it down - it solved that problem - it didn't move anymore, but proceded to collapse both rear quarters and both front fenders. My sister could have killed him - they ended up scrapping the car, so much for the 'free' transport.....
29restorod
Senior Member
When I bought my present car hauler,I was warned by the dealer not to cross the straps. He had a picture of a car laying on its side,with both straps still attached. My open wheel cars use a tire web type hold down system in the back,and two 3" straps on the front axle,pulling outward on an angle.
Cool Hand Lurker
Well-known member
My son just lost a strap that held down the rear of a car. The strap was a single one going from the first anchor point then to around the driveshaft and then twisted once, then over the pumpkin to the other side anchor point. Going over the pumpkin it went over the edge of the differential cover and that was enough to sever the strap over a bouncing 400 miles. The emergency brake was engaged and it held the car in place so luckily he didn't lose the car. Close call though.
Usually we use separate axle straps but they had been "borrowed" by a friend.
I also broke a strap recently while tightening it up. This was about 5 years old and had a lot of sun exposure and minor fraying. I am buying all new ones now. I am keeping them in bags made from old jeans legs, which makes them easy to store and out of the sun. No more leaving them on a car strapped to the trailer for days.
Usually we use separate axle straps but they had been "borrowed" by a friend.
I also broke a strap recently while tightening it up. This was about 5 years old and had a lot of sun exposure and minor fraying. I am buying all new ones now. I am keeping them in bags made from old jeans legs, which makes them easy to store and out of the sun. No more leaving them on a car strapped to the trailer for days.