One thing leads to another and another . . .

w.michael

w.michael

Senior Member
It began so simply. I needed a new battery in the coupe. Then I read the threads about making sure the battery was properly secured with hold-downs and the floorboards were properly screwed down to keep everything in place in case of a rollover. I've had a model A since 1964, and I've never had the battery secured or the floorboards screwed down. Obviously they should be fastened for safety. It just never occurred to me before. And so I ordered battery hold-down clamps and floorboard screws and washers, and I decided to get the anti-squeek webbing for the floorboards while I was at it. Bought a new battery locally, and went to work.

I put in the new battery and secured it with the new clamps. They don't really seem to fit right, but they do secure the battery. While I had the floorboards out, it seemed like an easy time to check the transmission oil. It was low, so I decided to add oil. I had read all the threads about the correct oil for the transmission, differential, and steering gear box, so I ordered oil. It also seemed like a good time to grease the throwout bearing. I was tired of fighting my old grease gun to get it in to the throwout, so I bought a new grease gun and ordered a new fitting for the original grease fittings to put on the new gun.

I got the throwout bearing greased without incident.

I drained the transmission and refilled it with new 600W. When I drained the transmission through screen wire, and found no metal. However, inside the hollow of the transmission plug, I found about 1/4 teaspoon of metal "sand". I don't know how long it has been since the transmission was drained and the plug cleaned out. The transmission is quiet and seems to operate properly.

Question #1. Should I be concerned about this amount of metal "sand?"

Since I had all this fresh 600W, I thought it would be a good time to drain and refill the differential. In an earlier thread, Tom Endy suggested that I take out one differential bolt at a time, coat the threads with Indian Head shellac, and reinstall each bolt, to try and stop seepage without breaking the banjo apart. I did as Tom suggested, and let it sit for several weeks to set before I refilled it. (My schedule dictated the lenght of time--it's certainly not necessary to let it sit for that long.) When I drained the differential through screen wire, I found about three very small metal shavings, totalling less than 1/4 of a BB.

Question #2. Should I be concerned about this amount of matal shavings?

I have refilled the differential and put a new piece of cardboard under it, but it's too soon to tell if the seepage has stopped.

It also seems like a good time to grease the universal joint. Several threads have recommended corn head grease for the differential. Farrell posted a question below, asking if cornhead can be added to whatever is already in the U-joint, or whether it should be cleaned out of all the old grease before the cornhead is added. He really never got an answer.

Question #3. Can corn head grease be added towhatever grease is already in myuniversal joint?

I filled the steering gear box with 660w, and I think I've completed about all of this, except I STILL HAVEN'T FASTENED DOWN THE FLOOR BOARDS!

Please forgive the length of this thread, but I'm now confined to my recliner following knee surgery (not replacement) on my accelerator/brake knee.
 
The group one 6-volt batteries being sold today don't fill the battery cage as did the originals, and the hold down brackets do not fit all that well. I have always been carefull not to tighten the hold down bolts too tight as it might crack the battery case.

On a tour a few years ago we were in Yellowstone cruising along when smoke came pouring up into the car from the floor boards. We stopped the car and jumped out and fortunately the smoke stopped. When the floorboards were removed we found that the two nuts had backed off and one had completely fallen off the hold down bracket. Somehow the bracket got wedged between the power terminal of the battery and ground. It burned a hole about an inch in diameter in the side of the battery. We patched the battery with duct tape and someone had along an assortment of nuts and bolts.

When I got home from the tour I bought a new battery and removed both threaded posts of the battery mounting and measured and drilled cotter pin holes in them. The castle nuts used for the front backing plates fits the posts. Now when the battery is installed I snug the nuts down to sufficiently hold the battery in place and insert the cotter pins.

Tom Endy
 
Tom Endy said:
The group one 6-volt batteries being sold today don't fill the battery cage as did the originals, and the hold down brackets do not fit all that well...
Click to expand...
Does anyone make a bracket that fits the group 1 battery? Seems as though that would be a big seller if they did.
 
Could not find one that pleased me and did not like the '28 hold downs so took small angle iron and welded up one that fit the top of the battery good. Welded a support on each side made from a large thick washer to allow the bolts to go through. Then took a portion of a plastic oil can botton which was black and cut it so it fits over the post of the battery and covered the bracket before attaching the battery cable to the starter. Now there is no chance of a short.
 
you can add corn head grease or grease plus 600W mixture with out cleaning out old grease. It will mix with the old grease and be fine. All you are trying to do is get a thinner grease that will not form a cavity around the u-joint,but that will flow back to coat it with grease when it stops.

If you have a stock transmission with no seal on the rear bearing,the oil that leaks past it will thin the u-joint grease and keep it lubricated.

John
 
Thank you all for your replies. As soon as my own suspension system is healed I will grease up the u-joint and get back on the road--after I finally FASTEN DOWN THOSE FLOOR BOARDS!

W. Michael
 
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