ONE Head Stud Alignment Issue

itslow said:
Heating the bolt until its red is going to temper the fastener and cause it to become more ductile. That could result in it stretching (more than intended) when tightened and allow the head to lift.

Since this bolt is one that's between two cylinders, I wouldn't heat it up. If it was the one directly above it, eh, not quite as problematic (but I still wouldn't do it).
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Yes it will temper the short un-threaded portion, keeping the heat low. Remember though that with aluminum heads, the torque is small, only 50 Ft-Lbs, minimal stretch. I'd rather have a perpendicular to the block stud rather than going the machining method. Practice on an old stud, hammer first, heat and hammer next.


Glenn
 
Is it off location or not square to deck? or both? my guess is its both but probably mostly not square to deck. check it with a square from deck. i would do what mart said. Then it will more than likely be square to deck and the head nut/washer will tighten up parallel to surface. I had a 59ab and my heads where very hard to get on and off. turns out the studs were slightly bent. I just marked what way they had to go and lightly tapped with rubber hammer when they were in block. they moved without much force but they were stock studs.
 
It will be interesting to see if you can bend that ARP stud without heat? My guess is that you won't (unless you have a huge bench and vice and a big pipe!

The insert was probably installed at an angle (easy to do if you don't have a big mill or a big magnetic base drill.

I'd open up the hole in the head first - just to see what improvement you get, then determine whether or not you need some sort of modified stud.
 
B&S has the best and easiest solution to first try.

Are the water passage wall holes in the head thick enough to make larger?
If so, use a Dremel tool or a round file to remove metal a little at a time only on the side of the head hole that needs to be enlarged. Don't enlarge the entire hole.

Keep trail fitting the head to check the fit.

Remember to cover the shank of the stud with anti - seize when you finally install the head.
 
19Fordy said:
B&S has the best and easiest solution to first try.

Are the water passage wall holes in the head thick enough to make larger?
If so, use a Dremel tool or a round file to remove metal a little at a time only on the side of the head hole that needs to be enlarged. Don't enlarge the entire hole.

Keep trail fitting the head to check the fit.

 Remember to cover the shank of the stud with anti - seize when you finally install the head.
Click to expand...


First off, BIG THANKS to all contributors to this thread. So far I have done nothing to head or stud. I have a 3 1/2" 7/16-14 bolt that I'm going mock up and try bending (so little is needed) and trial fit. It will bend easier than the ARP and see how that goes. I have a custom step stud coming, may not be the solution, but we'll see.
 
Shoebox said:
First off, BIG THANKS to all contributors to this thread. So far I have done nothing to head or stud. I have a 3 1/2" 7/16-14 bolt that I'm going mock up and try bending (so little is needed) and trial fit. It will bend easier than the ARP and see how that goes. I have a custom step stud coming, may not be the solution, but we'll see.
Click to expand...

To hold in the vise, I'd drill a 7/16" nut with a 7/16" drill bit. The nut will then slide on the bolt up to the head. Hold the bolt head and the drilled nut in your vise.

Now thread two 7/16" nuts so the flats are even and the second nut is even with the end of the bolt.

Slip a deep socket with a long 1/2" extension.

Pull the end of the extension while hitting the deep socket with a hard rubber hammer.

Glenn
 
If I was going to try to bend one, I'd do it in my hydraulic press on a set of V-Blocks. You have a lot more control and you can see how much it "springs back" if you go a little bit at a time. Also, you can easily use a mic to see how much bend you've put into it.
 
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