ONE Head Stud Alignment Issue

Shoebox

Shoebox

Well-known member
This problem really has me worried. One head stud is not perpendicular to the deck surface. This is probably due to it being the only hole that has a thread insert (TimeCert I believe) that is not installed perfectly. To make matters worse, this hole has one of the "Ford cracks" from an adjacent cooling hole, which makes me hesitant to try to bang it into column. I could really use some advice, as this brings assembly to a halt. Thanks!
 

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Gosh, I agree. Banging on the stud will prove disasterous.
Removing the stud and insert and then filling in the hole by welding with the hope of retapping it "on center" would probably not work either. It would open a fatal can of worms.

One solution may be to very carefully grind or file the hole in the head so it aligns with the off center stud. Be sure to apply plenty of sealant around the stud when installing the head. A hardened steel washer under the head nut must also be used.
 
Tighten the stud into the hole. Mark the side you want to bend it towards. Take it out and screw it into a couple or 3 nuts and hold them in a vise. Tap the stud in the direction you want. Refit it and hopefully it will be straight. It might take a couple of goes but at least the tapping is being done away from the block.

You might be able to rig up some sort of way of measuring the amount moved.

The hex feature might be handy to ensure the stud stays in the correct orientation when putting the nut on.

Just an idea and certainly easier than reworking an already compromised stud hole.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
Tighten the stud into the hole. Mark the side you want to bend it towards. Take it out and screw it into a couple or 3 nuts and hold them in a vise. Tap the stud in the direction you want. Refit it and hopefully it will be straight. It might take a couple of goes but at least the tapping is being done away from the block.

You might be able to rig up some sort of way of measuring the amount moved.

The hex feature might be handy to ensure the stud stays in the correct orientation when putting the nut on.

Just an idea and certainly easier than reworking an already compromised stud hole

Mart.
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I'll give that a try, thanks Mart.
 
Seeing how far off center the stud is its going to have a large bend in it to get any where's near close. There's also the problem of the stud being on such an angle the washer and nut will never sit flat.

If it was me I would open up the hole in the head to gain the needed clearance. The stud being on the angle may still cause the washer and nut to be not flat however they would be a lot closer to flat compared to bending the stud a lot.
Ronnieroadster
 
A 7/16" x 3/8" stepped stud might work. Keep tork under 50 ft lbs should be fine.


550781
 

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Thanks for the input guys, I really need to find a good solution.


Ronnie I share your concerns regarding bending, the picture seems to exaggerate the offset some, but still.


I purchased this as a bare block with the thread repair done, however it had not been assembled.



In attempting to install the head, it is prevented by the offending stud, with it out, the head goes on. I can actually start the stud with the head on but at some point the stud of course tightens up against the bore in the head, which brings me to thinking of what Ronnie suggested, however so far I haven't bent, ground or drilled anything. Going to look at this custom stud thing. I welcome any more input. Thanks again.
 
Shoebox said:
Thanks for the input guys, I really need to find a good solution.


Ronnie I share your concerns regarding bending, the picture seems to exaggerate the offset some, but still.


I purchased this as a bare block with the thread repair done, however it had not been assembled.



In attempting to install the head, it is prevented by the offending stud, with it out, the head goes on. I can actually start the stud with the head on but at some point the stud of course tightens up against the bore in the head, which brings me to thinking of what Ronnie suggested, however so far I haven't bent, ground or drilled anything. Going to look at this custom stud thing. I welcome any more input. Thanks again.
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Enlarge the hole in the head a bit to see if it'll go on ok? I can't see how much it needs from the pics, but may be an option. The washer will cover the hole. Not a perfect solution but perhaps workable.
 
Possibly make a washer that is shim like in order to overcome the lean of the stud. It would be very minimal IMHO.
 
Where did you get the studs from, have you tried another stud, i got a bad batch a while back that some were threaded crooked,
 
I'm taking all suggestions into consideration. I'm leaning towards trying to clearance the bolt bore in the head to accommodate the stud. However before I grind or drill on a new Offy head, I'm going to see how a step stud that is coming from the company Jack suggested might work. It was surprising that they were willing to make ONE stud, they're mailing it out tomorrow. Will report back and still welcome any input. Thanks guys!
 
kurt v said:
Where did you get the studs from, have you tried another stud, i got a bad batch a while back that some were threaded crooked,
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Kurt, I have heard of that, but these are ARP brand and are threaded very nice and roll smooth on a flat surface.
 
Shoebox, Get someone with a lathe to make you an offset stud that will screw into the Time Cert block with enough off-set to align with the hole in the head. You would then screw in the ofset stud so that the offset portion aligns with the head hole. Whatever it cost to have that offset stud made is well worth it and will put your mind at ease.

First, as an experiment get a piece of 7/16 threaded mild steel rod or a 7/16-14 UNC bolt with a long threaded portion that you can cut and use as a prototype for the offset stud you need. It will take patience but you could do it.

Whatever you do don't mess with the block. Think this through
 
>>I can actually start the stud with the head on but at some point the stud of course tightens up against the bore in the head,>>


Seems close. Another possibility. Liberally grease the standard stud thread/neck & head hole to see if it'll go in the block all the way.
 
In order to spread the torques pull evenly on all threads inside the block, the bent stud is the solution if the existing (crooked) thread is used. The stud will leave the block end threads engaged evenly and if bent correctly, leave the heads bore straight, hopefully concentric enough to fit the head without force. If so, this will allow the washer to seat on the recess and spread the torque correct over the washers surface.
If the block thread is replaced by a bigger thread that is machined rectangular to the surface, care must be taken that the new thread is at the correct position to be concentric to the heads bore. Not as easy as it sounds as the drill and threadcutter might want to follow the old bore...
Good luck!
 
Shoebox


Where it me, you say WITH the head on you can start the threads into the block, I would maybe look at putting some blue dykem on the stud and thread it into the block and see at what point the stud is starting to hit. I would take that to a machinist and maybe get him to turn a few .003 off the center of the stud and try it again and see IF it will thread with just a few thousands off the center portion of the stud....to me it beats reducing the stud down to 3/8 diameter.....maybe a combo of a few thousand's off the stud and a few thousand's off the hole in the head will get you where you need to be and keep your clamping force square to the head!!!! maybe go .005 to start?
 
My block has a stud like that, and other than making it a bit of a pain getting the head off, it hasn't caused a issue otherwise. Also , in working with a Canadian set of aluminum heads I have, i have found they have a slightly bigger stud opening than the cast 59AB heads do, the Canadian heads heads are about .50" , the cast heads that I have at least are slightly smaller than that. I can't say if that was normal or if it was do to someone opening it up, but it hasn't caused a issue either way. i think I agree with Ronnie, I have tweaked studs in the block before with mixed results, one of them straightened, and the other one snapped off causing me even more pain LOL. I don't recommend bending it in the block for sure either way LOL. I would try getting it on first and if not then explore your options, chances are it ran before you got it ok that way, and if not go down the roads available to you without messing with the block. That is one way for sure to get in trouble fast. good luck!!
 
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