Old style distributor

D

Dkrahn

Member
So, somewhere along the path my 1929 Model A pickup got the condenser mounted on the firewall. It is the new condenser that is "wired" from the wire in the old style distributor. I am looking to possibly switching back to "original look ". Just not sure how that looks. I can purchase old condenser and mount in the old distributer once I see a picture of how that looks. Does someone have a link or picture - with details - of what the old style distributor looks like? Opinions on old versus new condenser would also be of value to me.
 
You would be miles ahead if you were to purchase a few good model A manuals. First get a copy of the owners manual.
 
Here's a picture.
 

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I had the original set up with the condenser mounted just above the engine head in the distributor. This also requires the original condenser.
You can read in FORDBARN about the problems people have with condenser in the old style. The condenser gets hot in the original location and then shorts. This causes missing and backfiring.
I got around this problem by upgrading to a modern lower and upper plate. This has several advantages:
. Moves the condenser from a hot environment to a cooler environment just under the distributor cap
. The points and condenser are readily stocked at auto parts stores (and at Model A parts distributors) in case of emergency.
. eliminates the wire coming from the lower plate to the points.
I know this change to the modern set up generates much dialogue but since I made this change, I have not had one issue with the points or condenser failing.

I think what you have is another alternative to the condenser failing issue which is to mount to the firewall (for ground) and them run the pigtail wire to the coil. I have this in my car as well for a "roadside fix" if necessary.
There are diagrams on FORDBARN for the condenser mounted on the firewall.

I hope this helps.
 
Thank you, I think either way condensers will need to be replaced. I have the wire coming out of the back side of the "original condenser" and spliced into a wire, from the new condenser mounted on the firewall.
Appreciate your help
 
I have gone the other way. Someone, sometime has played around with "modern" points and left no room for a condenser on the plate. I took the easy route and mounted one on the firewall right next to the coil. Who says the condenser has to be in the distributor?
Needless to say, my car is a driver and practical is trumps.
 
" Who says the condenser has to be in the distributor?" Not by me! Would not be the first or last time someone has mounted one there. :)
 
I will second what wwriz said in post #7. I will add that it helps to polish the rotor (don't change the profile) to extend the life of the points, and keep the rotor lubricated with a good quality grease, such as https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976361&cat=41666.

Modern points kit can be found here: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976317&cat=41666

Dummy condensor that looks like original can be found here: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976369&cat=41666

My first Model A had original Ford points and condensor and they lasted as long as I owned the car, several year and several thousand miles. I did not have to fiddle with them. That was 60 years ago. Today it is hard to find quality points and condensors, although some are better than others. The modern replacements last a lot longer and are more reliable than the repos. I run them in my car and don't have to adjust the points more than once every 5,000 miles or so. With the dummy condensor you cannot tell the difference from the outside.
 
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My experience rebuilding many distributors is that the stock set up works fine. The heat only affects the condenser when it is a low quality part. The A&L burnproof condensers go for many many miles without needing replacement. Cheaper ones have poorer quality internals that can't handle the heat.
 
chrs1961815 said:
My experience rebuilding many distributors is that the stock set up works fine. The heat only affects the condenser when it is a low quality part. The A&L burnproof condensers go for many many miles without needing replacement. Cheaper ones have poorer quality internals that can't handle the heat.
Click to expand...
Could never figure out how to purchase a condenser from A&L. I wanted to....but could not do it. DO you have a contact or way to do this?
 
A&L used to sell to the public but now they only sell their stuff wholesale to the vendors. So the burnout condensers from Snyders and Brattons are both A&L products.
 
Ok, so now I am putting in the old style condenser. I had also pulled off the distributor cam screw and upper plate for observation. Never pulled or unlocked the distributor
When I go to put the cam back on the shaft it seems odd it spins on the shift and does not lock down except by the cam screw. I looked in Les Andrew's book and it is not explained there. Whats not right?
 
dkrahn, the cam spins on the upper shaft, that's how you adjust the rotor and timing. Once the rotor is positioned correctly, remove the rotor and tighten down the cam screw, there is a thin lock washer that goes under the cam screw needed to keep the screw tight,
don't forget to replace the rotor (something we've all done). Good luck and Drive and Enjoy your "A". LRF
 
Thank u..something still aint right, as I seem to not getting spark. I changed from new style condenser on firewall to old style, slide in distributor hole. Is condenser making a connection inside somewhere by just sliding into hole on side of distributor?
 
If you have no spark, it has something to do with the power from the ignition switch, to the cable, to the lower plate it makes contact with.
 
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