Old ford lug nuts left loosen?

Sorry for the mystery , its a 1942 ford maron-herrington
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“It was elementary, my dear Watson”, as Sherlock Holmes would say. And it has 18” wheels.

Do you understand my earlier point about the front wheel spacers? On SnoGos, M-H built them so that the front and single rear wheels tracked in the same path while plowing. Your blanked out headlights, front framing, and missing bed all fit the SnoGo profile. Assuming you are intending to bring it back to basic operation, I’ll suggest you get to know, and build a customer relationship with, Chuck Mantiglia of Chuck’s Trucks in CT. He is the M-H guru, a great guy, and will know your truck inside and out. Stu

http://www.chuckstrucksllc.com/startframe.htm
 
If you do this a lot? You should think of the LARGE air impact guns. Harbor Freight is the cheapest. Newc
 
Yeah, that pipe wrench won’t make it if the truck is to be brought back to life. The Budd torque specs for the 3/4” x 16 tpi nuts is 450-500 lb/ft of dry torque. Dry Torque, no oil and no anti seize (let’s see if I can start an argument on this! “I’ve been using anti-seize or years blah blah blah”). The larger point is that these lug nuts have been comfortably in place for many decades and won’t willingly come apart. It’ll take some serious effort to remove them. This is why I have a 1” drive Chicago Pneumatic. Stu
 
Torque Budd wheels? I’ve always been under the impression that you get them as tight as you can, then go one turn more!
 
“It was elementary, my dear Watson”, as Sherlock Holmes would say. And it has 18” wheels.

Do you understand my earlier point about the front wheel spacers? On SnoGos, M-H built them so that the front and single rear wheels tracked in the same path while plowing. Your blanked out headlights, front framing, and missing bed all fit the SnoGo profile. Assuming you are intending to bring it back to basic operation, I’ll suggest you get to know, and build a customer relationship with, Chuck Mantiglia of Chuck’s Trucks in CT. He is the M-H guru, a great guy, and will know your truck inside and out. Stu

http://www.chuckstrucksllc.com/startframe.htm
Stu,
I spoke with Chuck a while back and he was not to friendly, seemed like he did not want to be bothered. Thanks for the info on the spaces . Im tying to get it more streetable Im looking at either changing the gears or going with a 5 speed trans. I will keep all original parts, so it can be put back to original
 
Hmmm, maybe you caught him at a bad time. He can be abrupt, but having visited him a couple times at his shop I know how busy he is. He’s essentially a one man operation, and can’t keep the lights on being chatty on the phone. If you’re gonna have a M-H, and intend to put it back into service, you’re gonna need to have a customer relationship with him. This is where the other guys that have M-Hs can try to be of assistance on the forums. Honestly, you’ll find more of us over on the FTE forums than here. FTE is all about trucks, many big trucks, categorized by year grouping while the Ford Barn is mostly cars and small trucks in wider groupings.

Your truck is gonna require some significant changes to make it roadable. Your final drive ratios are 6.67/1, and you have an underdrive gear box in the drive train that the SnoGos needed to keep rpms up while in snow removal operation. That underdrive gearbox will need to be removed at minimum. I’m not sure a T5 or other overdrive ****** will do much to overcome the 6.67/1 gearing. Other final drive ratios (5.83/1 and 5.14/1) exist if you are so inclined.

Edit : another way to help neutralize that 6.67/1 gearing is the go to taller wheels and tires. Your 7.00 or 7.50-18s are probably 35” tall. A set of 7.50-20s will be 37” and 8.25-20s about 39”+. I think I can help with that if you are interested. Stu

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum42/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum41/
 
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