old 312 and oil

[KULTULZ]

I have a few 5 quart jugs of random oil that have been collecting dust for years. I think I just found a good use for that oil!

What types of oil?

It might be best to use the old oil for initial fire and save the VR-1 for use when the engine (and pressure) is verified as correct. Use a cheap filter for first fire and then open it for inspection after run-in.

Now remember, the VR-1 has a very light detergent package and is only going to provide extra zinc. It needs to be changed after limited use to a detergent engine oil.

You need a mechanical oil pressure test gauge to know what shape the engine is in. It will also help determine if the oil pump pickup is blocked with crud.

 

[Stephenorf]

Well, well, well....I popped the RH valve cover off, and was prepared for the worst. I imagined a thick coating of sludge on everythong. To my suprise, upon removing the valve cover I was greeted with a what I think is super-clean looking. Wow, what a relief. I'm not too worried about sludge and crud, seems the PO must have taken pretty good care of the engine, oil change-wise at least.

Everything looks clean enought to eat off of...as the saying goes.

Also, when I drained the oil, the oil looked really good. Like still a golden brown color. Real clear when it was on my hand and fingers, it's almost invisible. Not thick and/or black like some oil is when it comes out of the oil pan. Super happy with all of this. Like I said, I was expecting the worst. Not sure if it will show up, but the third pic is the old oil wicked up onto a white paper towel.

 

[Stephenorf]

What types of oil?

It might be best to use the old oil for initial fire and save the VR-1 for use when the engine (and pressure) is verified as correct. Use a cheap filter for first fire and then open it for inspection after run-in.

Now remember, the VR-1 has a very light detergent package and is only going to provide extra zinc. It needs to be changed after limited use to a detergent engine oil.

You need a mechanical oil pressure test gauge to know what shape the engine is in. It will also help determine if the oil pump pickup is blocked with crud.

Hmm.. well let's see....Looks like i have all kinds...

Is this correct...the 312 takes 5 quarts in the oil pan + 1 quart in the filter...so 6 quarts total?

Is there any issue with mixing weights?

I don't have a mechanical oil gauge. I can get one easy enough though. WHere would be a good place to run the line into the engine?

 

[Stephenorf]

What types of oil?

It might be best to use the old oil for initial fire and save the VR-1 for use when the engine (and pressure) is verified as correct. Use a cheap filter for first fire and then open it for inspection after run-in.

..

As clean as the internals of the engine seem to be, maybe I can just run it without worrying about initial run in? Just change the oil & filter as if I were performing regularly scheduled maintenance. Although since I already have all that extra oil just sitting around I guess it wouln't hurt change the oil after a few hours of run time. what do do you think?

 

[miker98038]

That looks really good under the valve covers. Just watch for oil to the top end after start up. I think they make some zinc additives. I’d be tempted to run some of the 10-30 with the additive (if the additive is any good, I’ve never used it. Someone will know) and do a couple short interval oil changes.

Someone with a picture of the block can point out where to mount the oil gauge, being a side oiler there’s probably a spot you can get to and get the plug out.

 

[dmsfrr]

... I don't have a mechanical oil gauge. I can get one easy enough though. WHere would be a good place to run the line into the engine?

Any of these small threaded plugs you can easily got to, they're all in the main oil passage from the oil pump.
.

 

[Fairlane56]

You can run a y-block with the rocker covers off. These aren’t Chevrolets. I put a piece of cardboard between the springs and head edge with clear packing tape on it. No oil ever gets to the exhaust manifolds. There is a drain line on the shaft at the front of the right one and rear of the left one. When warm you should see oil coming from them.
With the covers off shake all the rockers, you can tell a warnout one spin the push rods with your fingers too.

 

[Fairlane56]

You

 

[Stephenorf]

You can run a y-block with the rocker covers off. These aren’t Chevrolets. I put a piece of cardboard between the springs and head edge with clear packing tape on it. No oil ever gets to the exhaust manifolds. There is a drain line on the shaft at the front of the right one and rear of the left one. When warm you should see oil coming from them.
With the covers off shake all the rockers, you can tell a warnout one, spin the push rods with your fingers too.
I run Lucas hot rod 10-30… These engines are designed to run on 20 wt oil.

OK, thanks for the tips. I'll wiggle the rockers and spin the pushrods and see how they feel.

I'll rig up some cardboard with tape on it so the oil won't soak into the cardboard and hopefull see some flow out of the drain line.

I was only going to take the RH valve cover off. I think someone said if the RH head was getting plently of oil, then by default the LH one would be getting a good flow of oil too.

 

[Fairlane56]

The right one on mine sees oil first. I’m told that’s normal. The left side could be plugged. There are ways to open up. Remove the rocker arm shaft and apply air to the hole the oil come up. You should hear air at the oil fill tube. To clean it out, squirt diesel fuel in it and immediately blow air in the hole. Do it 2 or 3 times cranking the engine over in between.

With the rockers off check each end for wear. Be careful removing to so the push rods dont slip down into the valley. Keep every thing in order so the clearances will stay the same.

You would be surprised how much you can check and repair with very little expense and a few tools.