OK, ... I'm Stumped * Solved *

Re: OK, ... I'm Stuped * Solved *

My temp fix is:

I hacked the armored cable> cut the wire about 3" from the distributor end> Soldered on a new wire> slipped on some heat shrink> a second layer of heat shrink full length of wire> back to the switch. I am going to order a 30-31 armored cable to fix it correctly. It's a daily driver, so this will work until the new part arrives.

Works like a champ, ... I just got back from a 64 mile drive @ 40-45 mph.

Regards
Bill​
 

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Make sure your armored cable going into the distributor is not completely screwed in. The internal contact plate could be close enough to the distributor base to occasionally make contact causing your is ignition to ground out. This could be an intermittent condition such that when the circuit opens (connects the points) the excess fuel in the combustion chamber causes a back fire.
 
Bill, It could also be the wire that runs from the ignition switch to the distributor, where the insulation has worn of and touching the metal cable, that happened to me.
 
imacrazy said:
Bill, It could also be the wire that runs from the ignition switch to the distributor, where the insulation has worn of and touching the metal cable, that happened to me.
Click to expand...

About 8" of the wire was exposed inside the armored cable starting 4" from the distributor end, and about 3" of the other end of the wire was exposed as well as inside the switch.

I originally tried to just slip some heat shink over the entire length of the original wire, but I couldn't get it past the exposed wire near the distributor end which is why I had to cut the armored cable.Honestly, I don't know how this car was running. It's a good thing it didn't happen when I took her to the 59th pancake breakfast.

Regards
Bill
 
Thanks, I didn't know that they made coloured heat shrink tubing, all I've ever seen was black.
 
Pop always told me, when you make a temporary fix be sure it is good enough to be permanent, because it probably will be.

Ken
 
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