Ok i know this is a dumb question about swedging but....

DeBordEngineMan

DeBordEngineMan

Senior Member
Ok guys I fill real stupid about asking this question I am new to all these terms and processes but what is swedging? I have been asking for help on my brakes and I have gotten a lot of good advice and I am having somebody that knows what they are doing help me but in the meantime it would help me to know some of the terms. All the books that I have(the complete set of How to Restore your Model A by The Restorer, Les Andrews Mechanics Handbook Vol 1) and all the answers to my posts tell me to swedge my hubs to the drums ok got it, but what is the purpose? I do understand the process of swedging the wheel studs and have see the web site that Don Turly posted for me so I guess mine are not right on my car now because the original steal drums just pulled off the hubs after taking wheels off, just not fell off a two were stuck very lightly and two just pulled off drum, but I guess this is not correct? I am going to have my drums measured by a professional brake shop to see if they are in the allowed range of measurement of no less than .120 (have not got to get that done yet) to see if I can install bands and if not, going to get cast drums offered by Mel Gross in California(hopefully $$$$) but will I have to get "Swedged" again to be safe for driving? What would happen if you were to put drums on without swedging, Looks like these hubs and drums have run this way for a long time with no "seen problem" but I don't know, I am now really totally in the dark. Thanks for your time and help for the newbie Robert DeBord
 
swedging was basically crimping the wheel stud shoulder to lock the drum perfectly true to the hub c/l needed because of the non self centering shoes everthing had to be concentric for the brakes to work. if you go for modern presss in studs you should be ok with castiron drums...just be SURE that the lugnuts dont bottom out on the stud shoulders or you will ruin your wheels
 
Hello Robert,
Swedging is when you have a pin or rivet ,that goes through two or more pieces of metal, then you hammer the rivet until it swells and tightens up in the hole so it can't move or come apart. They make swedging tools so as you swell the pin, it will round it over making it look like a rivet. Or you can swedge a pin in a chamferd hole, and you can hammer it down until it is flush with the material. Hope this helped.

Stan
 
This got me wondering: Why couldn't the studs be swedged directly to the hubs, and the drums simply fit over the studs like any modern vehicle with drum brakes? And even if the original front or rear hubs are not suitable for this, couldn't repro hubs be made that are suitable?

Doug
 
I have seen some South American imports here with that setup. The studs were back welded to the hubs not swedged.The depth of the stud shoulder probably prevented that. I doubt they would have bothered anyway. Seemed to work fine the road wheel bolted up secured the whole caboodle. Argentina produced a nice finned cast iron drum these used a longer stud.

John in a lovely warm summer morning England still negotiating with the insurance company over my poor badly injured 68B (sob) England
 
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