oil

Graeme / New Zealand

Graeme / New Zealand

Well-known member
I haven't done an oil change for yonks. I went to get some Castrol 20/40 but you can't get it here in NZ anymore, so I settled for 20/50 Castrol mineral.

I don't know a lot about the weights....this would be ok or should I use a different weight? Engine pulls good oil pressure.

GB
 
Graeme plenty of oil choices here in NZ Valvoline 20/50 is reasonably priced,up until the late 60s the only multi grade we had was Castrol 30/40 I use Valvoline Diesel engine 15/40 in my flathead wait till Supercheap has an oil sale and buy then 20/50 suites our temperate climate
 
Just a small hijacking here. Have any of you fellow kiwis got any C7RA heads that are surplus?
There are a couple on trademe at the moment, but they are pick up only.

Engine oil used to be easy, but now there are as many variations as there are pizza toppings.
Mono, multigrade, std, semi synthetic, synthetic.

There was a very interesting thread on here some time back, that analyzed each type and rated it. Can someone remind me what the thread was called please?
 
trevo said:
Graeme plenty of oil choices here in NZ Valvoline 20/50 is reasonably priced,up until the late 60s the only multi grade we had was Castrol 30/40 I use Valvoline Diesel engine 15/40 in my flathead wait till Supercheap has an oil sale and buy then 20/50 suites our temperate climate
Click to expand...

Trev, I used Castrol 20/50 for over 40 years. Some was in brand new
flathead engines that were never run. After years of service I have never
seen any sludge in the few pans I removed. I have a lot of diesel cars
and trucks that I also used the Castrol 20/50 in for even longer with
no problems. A few years ago Castrol changed the ratings of their oils
and said not to use it in diesels. I saw an article by an oil engineer
who picked Cummins Blue Oil made by Valvoline out of about 25 oils.
I liked the extra additives and switched to it for my diesels. It's an over
kill but I started using it in some of my old flatheads. I liked the zink
and molly additives. G.M.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Tony Starr yes Penrite is available here I use Penrite 20/60 in my Boss and my motorcycles.
GM,Cummins blue Valvoline is what I have in my roadsters and my Ford ute that I bought new in 2002 and now have 300,000 is on it runs fine
 
Thanks all. I've just changed the oil. My book says it takes 5 quarts US which converted to litres is 4.73. I've put that amount in but the oil mark on the dipstick is about an inch above the full line. Any comments? Engine is C59A, I don't know if it is the original dipstick.

Thanks
GB
 
trevo said:
That should be HPR Penrite I use
Click to expand...

Penrite HPR 30 (previously 20W-50 and now 20W-60) I've also used in my cars. And I wouldn't be surprised if it's exactly the same as their vintage range, which you pay a slight premium for.

-
 
Graeme / New Zealand said:
Thanks all. I've just changed the oil. My book says it takes 5 quarts US which converted to litres is 4.73. I've put that amount in but the oil mark on the dipstick is about an inch above the full line. Any comments? Engine is C59A, I don't know if it is the original dipstick.

Thanks
GB
Click to expand...
Are the V8 engines like the Model A engines where there is a significant difference between putting oil into an engine that has had the sump etc off and an oil change after draining the oil via the sump plug? There is half a litre difference between the two situations on an A, five litres in the first instance, four and a half in the second.
 
I use HPR 30 good all rounder and has plenty of zddp. The classic range like shelsley I think you will find have a tack additive to help with startup on vehicles left sitting for some time.
 
So from reading G.M's. part 2 report it looks like oils 12 and 14 are the test guys pick.
These oils are Cummins Valvoline premum blue and Delo 400.
I am building my engine now and using Ross forged pistons Their blurb(Ross's) recommends a non synthetic for running in. The Valvoline is a synthetic so my conclusion is to run in on the Delo 400, and later change over to the Valvoline.
What I am not sure about is how these oils tested apply to flathead V8s.(They are diesel oils) High detergent works fine in a new engine correct?
Have I read the report correctly, or am I missing something?
 
Last edited:
These engines seem to be OK with any oil as long as it has some
viscosity. Look how long they have run on various types and makes
of oil. My point is if they ran this long on almost any oil how much
longer would they last with an oil that has better additives? Oil has
been a personal preference for 20 years on this forum and I don't
think it is it is going to change. Main thing is good oil pressure and
change more often than required. G.M.
 
I use Penrite HPR-30 in all my fords from 1930s to the 1990s. No issues with it in 25 years. Regards, Kevin.
 
IMO don't overthink it, nor overspend. The oil change interval on an antique engine is so relatively short that many of the points compared to modern engines are moot. I run a stock cartridge type stacked media filter, typically use Shell Rotella Triple 15w40 HDMO in New England USA buying when it's on sale and change at least every 1000-1500. The Rotella is a "ho-hum" rating on G.M.'s chart...whatever, it's fine like most of the oils listed. Most are way overkill and some ludicrously expensive. Correct viscosity, some ZDDP, detergent oil, a filter, frequent changes and maybe even an adapted PCV setup will pamper a flathead unlike the hundreds of sludge bombs I have seen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top