oil return tube

[skeazle]

I replaced my oil return tube about a year ago or less and it still leaks like crazy. Turns out that the one end of the tube was not brazed or soldered properly at the factory so I just got another one with washers and 2 rubber gaskets. Does it matter which washers I use Brass or Copper? I got both. Should I use a little permatex (or something similar) on the rubber gaskets? thanks























































9on the gaskets that go on the tube? Thanks

 

[nkaminar]

Permatex is OK. A good silicone gasket cement is also OK. Use either sparingly. I would use the rubber gaskets unless the brass or copper are compressible. If you use the rubber gaskets do not over tighten.

 

[AL in NY]

You could have repaired the original oil return pipe on the inside using JB Weld. I holds up to water, oil. gasoline and antifreeze. You could have saved $40.

 

[skeazle]

Thanks for the comeback. I am going to take the old one to a radiator shop and have them repair it but until then I'll put it back together with the new one and drive it.

 

[Bob Bidonde]

Beware of tightening the bolts:

 

[katy]

I prefer the cork gaskets.

 

[The Master Cylinder]

I prefer the cork gaskets.

So do I.

 

[Wick]

I soak the cork gasket in oil for a hour,I used the brass washers. I hold the head of a 3/8 rachet in my Palm and snug it up. After the motor warms up I give each bolt a 1/4 turn. No sealer and no leaks.

 

[Roger V]

Thanks for the comeback. I am going to take the old one to a radiator shop and have them repair it but until then I'll put it back together with the new one and drive it.

The two ends are not on the same plane so the likelihood of the shop getting it right is low. So, a leak due to not being flat to the gasket is likely.

You can measure that difference (don't remember but around 3/8"). Have your shop use that dimension's spacer and solder.