oil question

If you do a search on the subject you will find dozens of different answers.To each their own ! Wayne
 
This is what Antique engine rebuilding has on their website.

What oil should I use and what about the zinc reduction in modern motor oils?

If engine is clean on the inside it is highly recommended to use a multi-grade motor oil such as 10w30 or 5w30. Yes, we all have learned that the modern motor has greatly reduced zinc anti-wear additive. This anti-wear additive was required when the automotive industry switched from steel cam shafts to cast iron camshafts. The Model "T" "A" and early "V8" Fords had steel camshafts and this problem of premature camshaft lobe wear has not happened. We also have lower valve spring tensions and lower RPM's that prevent this wear from happening. Later V8 fords had a cast iron camshaft, so a different oil or zinc additive should be used.
 
Roxo has the best answer. I use 10w/30 Mobil 1. Probably overkill, but that is what I use in just about everything I drive.
 
I had seen somewhere they (Antique engine rebuilding) recommended mobil 1 synthetic 10w 30 for their rebuilds.
It would be interesting to see what other rebuilders recommend.
 
And, if your engine has been on a diet of "non-detergent" oil, you want to continue with non-detergent. At least until you have a chance to tear down the motor and physically remove everything that has settled in all the passages and horizontal surfaces.

Putting detergent oil into an engine run a long time on non-detergent causes the "settled out" stuff to lift (that is the point of a detergent oil) and travel "uniformly" throughout the engine. A "slug fest" of crud all appearing at once. And crud CAN get lodged in passages or orifices feeding say, the connecting rods?

Better to leave this crud as a "sleeping dog" until you have the chance to take it out and examine all passages and bearings in the process.

Many still prefer a non-detergent oil. All that crud is there, but doesn't hurt anything. The thought is that the crud is effectively "trapped" and the engine itself acts as its own "oil filter."

And many who do use detergent oil prefer the add-on filter accessory because in their mind the filter substitutes for the engine.

I tend to fall into the former thinking. And I have continued running my engine on a non-detergent oil EVEN AFTER A REBUILD and "starting fresh." But I can understand going detergent, especially if the engine is "pressurized" or has inserts or the filter mentioned.

Joe K
 
My cynical input:

1. Any oil is better than no oil.

2. Clean oil is better than dirty oil.

3. After that - make a decision and stick with it.

I've accumulated several partial bottles of different oils from the various vehicles that I've had. Now that Model As are my only toys, getting rid of those partial bottles is a desire. My own choice - I use primarily Mobil 1 10W-30 (I buy on sale) when I change the oil, and then top it off between changes with whatever I happen to have around in an open container. Eventually all I will have around is Mobil 1 10W-30, and dino 30W that I use in my oil cans for general lubrication and for the lathe. I don't believe there's any harm in mixing oils in small amounts.

(Oh, I forgot - my air compressor uses 30W non-detergent, so I keep some around to change that oil. And a quart of bar oil for the chainsaw.)

JayJay
 
I use 10W30 and change it on season if I don't drive much. If I drive it more then I go by miles. If you have a leaker or a smoker then you can try 20W50.
 
Before lay-up last fall I changed the oil and used 10 W 30. Last summer I used 35 weight oil. 35 you ask? That's two quarts of 30 and two quarts of 40. The car didn't seem to mind.
Marty
 
I like Castrpl 20/50. It goes on sale at Wall Mart regularly but I have used them all including Mobile I. I run an oil filter and change oil at 3000 miles.

If you only drive your Model A only a couple of hundred miles a year, change yearly.

Richard
Anaheim CA
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top