oil presure gauge

The main oil passage from the oil pump runs the length of the drivers side of the block. A threaded fitting that comes with the gauge should fit in place of whichever one of these plugs is easiest to get to. If it's a mechanical gauge with tubing double check that it's length reaches.
An oil pan from a 'full sized car' will have the sump at the front, unlike this one.
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On my pickup, it's pretty close to the oil filter. The previous owner used a T so I have a gauge and the idiot light. If you get the mechanical one, ditch that plastic line and get copper. I know it's a little hard to find at the parts stores but any good refrigeration guy should have it.
I've seen several engines damaged or ruined because that plastic line failed.
 
willowbilly3 said:
..... If you get the mechanical one, ditch that plastic line and get copper. I know it's a little hard to find at the parts stores but any good refrigeration guy should have it.
I've seen several engines damaged or ruined because that plastic line failed.
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That sounds like a good idea to me too.
The plastic tube can crack or get brittle from engine heat, or just plain melt if it's too close to the exhaust, etc.
 
willowbilly3 said:
On my pickup, it's pretty close to the oil filter. The previous owner used a T so I have a gauge and the idiot light. If you get the mechanical one, ditch that plastic line and get copper. I know it's a little hard to find at the parts stores but any good refrigeration guy should have it.
I've seen several engines damaged or ruined because that plastic line failed.
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I got the copper line and the fittings at ACE Hardware same with the fittings I needed to hook up my Dual master cylinder.;)
 
dmsfrr said:
That sounds like a good idea to me too.
The plastic tube can crack or get brittle from engine heat, or just plain melt if it's too close to the exhaust, etc.
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Or if you just overtighten a fitting, the feral can cut through the line. It's hard to have a feel for how much to tighten and easy to damage.
 
I have a plastic line on my car, but I have it grommeted and it doesn't chafe anywhere. I keep at eye on it and since I have a SBC, it exits close to the firewall. I ran plastic lines on stock cars, they seemed to be able to withstand a lot of shock and vibration.
 
bobss396 said:
I have a plastic line on my car, but I have it grommeted and it doesn't chafe anywhere. I keep at eye on it and since I have a SBC, it exits close to the firewall. I ran plastic lines on stock cars, they seemed to be able to withstand a lot of shock and vibration.
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Maybe so but the copper suited Chevy, that's what they used. The percentage of plastic line failures is probably small, but still significant enough several of us have witnessed it.
 
Plastic line story. Back in the 60/70's drive in movies would supply you with an electric heater you could put in your car. They never worked very good so you ended up running your car to stay warm. One nite in the middle of some front seat gymnastics w/ girlfriend one of us kicked the plastic line breaking it off at the gage. Of course the oil coming out hit the heater coil filling the car with smoke. We both bailed out in different stages of undress to a chorus of honking horns around us as the smoke billowed out. Shut it off and after the smoke cleared I found a pencil to plug off the broken line. Watched the movie after that. I have 2 cars now with plastic lines and haven't had any problems with them. Don't engage in front seat shenanigans anymore also.
 
I ran a plastic line in my 54 Ford (312) for about 6 years and never had a problem. I did use a rubber hose over the plastic line near the engine for safety.

I did get worried about it and last year I replaced the mechanical gauge with an electric one. I do not use the idiot light.

In my 64 Fairlane (302), I used some fittings in the oil sending unit outlet so i could run both the idiot light and a electric gauge. You could do the same in a YBlock, using only the original port for the factory sender
 
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