Oil Pressure Gauge

mshmodela

mshmodela

Well-known member
Looking at oil pressure gauge and the kits I've seen do not really state the installation process. One might guess the pickup (at the engine) is some where in the valve cover --maybe? Anyone install one?

Many thanks,

-Mike
Cleveland
 
Unless you have a pressurised system , there is no oil pressure .

A stock engine will only show about 4 pounds .

There is a plug on the side of the block above the oil pan , below the valve cover .

In my opinion its just something that could leak .
 
Hicktick said:
Unless you have a pressurised system , there is no oil pressure .

A stock engine will only show about 4 pounds .

There is a plug on the side of the block above the oil pan , below the valve cover .

In my opinion its just something that could leak .
Click to expand...

less than that I heard once it warms up. As for hook up Hicktick was it right, replace it with the pipe threaded plug just below the valve cover.
 
mshmodela said:
Looking at oil pressure gauge and the kits I've seen do not really state the installation process. One might guess the pickup (at the engine) is some where in the valve cover --maybe? Anyone install one?

Many thanks,

-Mike
Cleveland
Click to expand...

Oil pressure gauges are very interesting when installed on a Model A. Cold engines in cold weather can show 15 psi or more until the engine warms up and the pressure drops considerably. Synthetic oil appears to maintain a pound or two higher pressure than conventional oil in a warm engine. Add an oil filter and the pressure maintains an even higher reading.
 
Why do you want to scare yourself knowing what the oil pressure isn't? I had this with a Ford 8N, cold it was 40lbs, warm it was 3-4 lbs. Hard to get used to!
Terry
 
Actually, very comforting for me AFTER I added the oil filter. Before that, the hot pressure was essentially zero except when revving the engine. After installing the oil filter kit, the gauge reads the pressure INTO the filter so there is about 4 PSI (hot) when going down the road. Nice to look down and get the assurance that the pump is working.

sd
 
The point for oil pressure pickup is a small, 1/8" Pipe thread, plug located on the distribuitor side of the engine block in the center just above the base pan rail. It is located on a rounded out area on the block cast for the oil pump drive. The plug, frequently covered with road grime, takes a normal but sturdy screwdriver bit to remove it. Some can be a bit difficult to access with a good tool due to the limited space to the frame.

It is the same hole that some use to thread a fitting into to hold the oil pump when reinstalling the base pan.

John
 
29 Tudor said:
Actually, very comforting for me AFTER I added the oil filter. Before that, the hot pressure was essentially zero except when revving the engine. After installing the oil filter kit, the gauge reads the pressure INTO the filter so there is about 4 PSI (hot) when going down the road. Nice to look down and get the assurance that the pump is working.

sd
Click to expand...

As 29 Tudor mentions: Peace of mind knowing the pump is moving oil is the incentive to install one.

Good Day!
 
Last edited:
I have one in my car. It reads anywhere from 1/2-2 psi when warm. It really just helps to prove you've got oil. Hookup is easy. You can buy the sunpro gauge hookup kit, all you will need other than that is the fitting that screws into the block. The kits do not provide them. I bought the official kit from Macs and it was the basic sunpro kit with their sticker over the brand name. Would have been nice to know since I could walk over to autozone and buy the same one without paying shipping and their markup.
 
It is simply not worth the trouble. If you ever want to sell the model A, it will probably hurt you. I have one on my 31 tudor, I wouldn't do it again. This is just my thoughts.
 
How would it hurt? Its just a bolt on item, its not like your greatly modifying the car just to fit the gauge.
 
Hi msh,

I installed a Rex-A-Co oil pressure gauge not long ago which connected to the passenger's side of the engine.

Also have an oil filter mounted on my valve cover.

When engine is cold, needle gets buried all the way to the right & after engine warms up, maybe registers 4-6 lbs.

I am really not looking to receive a Nobel Peace Prize, or a Grammy Award, or some type of Hall of Fame Prize -- but as far as I know, I may be the only Model A owner who witnessed the cast iron shaft enclosure on a Model A oil pump breaking, thus ruining an almost perfect re-built engine years ago.

The lack of oil flow "Warning" that I received was an instant knocking caused by the melting of the front connecting rod bearing Babbitt.

The oil pressure gauge is useful to determine if oil is flowing "only" when one "looks" at the gauge -- maybe if I would have had a gauge back then, I may not have looked at the gauge until after the knocking ...... who knows?

Each to his own .... a watch is not very useful to have either if one never checks the time ...... wearing underwear is also optional ..... nothing but different choices in life ....... in my opinion, just do what makes you happy.
 
Last edited:
jkeesey said:
I have one in my car. It reads anywhere from 1/2-2 psi when warm. It really just helps to prove you've got oil. Hookup is easy. You can buy the sunpro gauge hookup kit, all you will need other than that is the fitting that screws into the block. The kits do not provide them. I bought the official kit from Macs and it was the basic sunpro kit with their sticker over the brand name. Would have been nice to know since I could walk over to autozone and buy the same one without paying shipping and their markup.
Click to expand...

Is the Sunpro you bought a 0 to 100psi gauge?
 
No, the sunpro is the install kit. I have an original 1926 New York gauge co. gauge. Only reads up to 10psi. You can run the Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge though. It actually screws directly into the block if you don't want the gauge inside the cabin.
 
jkeesey said:
How would it hurt? Its just a bolt on item, its not like your greatly modifying the car just to fit the gauge.
Click to expand...

Its not that a modification would hurt. Its the small amount of oil pressure that the gauge would register on the model A. I wonder how many people that bought an oil pressure gauge called the seller with alarm about the 3 to 5 lbs. pressure that the gauge registers. Prospective buyers may not understand about the gravity and dip oiling system. Many would exp[ect it to idle with 45 lbs. pressure like some newer vehicles. Try explaining something to a person who probably thinks that they know more than you. Especially if you are trying to sell them a car that shows practically no oil pressure. I would rather just remove the gauge than try explaining to deaf ears.
 
Last edited:
jkeesey said:
No, the sunpro is the install kit. I have an original 1926 New York gauge co. gauge. Only reads up to 10psi. You can run the Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge though. It actually screws directly into the block if you don't want the gauge inside the cabin.
Click to expand...

That is what I've done. I watch it when starting after it has sat awhile. Just to make sure.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Its not that a modification would hurt. Its the small amount of oil pressure that the gauge would register on the model A. I wonder how many people that bought an oil pressure gauge called the seller with alarm about the 3 to 5 lbs. pressure that the gauge registers. Prospective buyers may not understand about the gravity and dip oiling system. Many would exp[ect it to idle with 45 lbs. pressure like some newer vehicles. Try explaining something to a person who probably thinks that they know more than you. Especially if you are trying to sell them a car that shows practically no oil pressure. I would rather just remove the gauge than try explaining to deaf ears.
Click to expand...

I agree with Purdy. Just seeing the oil pressure gauge telling me that I have less than 4 pounds of pressure might even scare ME.
 
If that plug in the block has not been removed since day one you will probably have to drill it out and tap the hole . That was my experience . Had the engine out of the car . Would not want to try this with engine in the car .
 
Before drilling, I'd try welding a large nut to the plug, then let it cool. This should shrink the plug slightly and make it easy to remove using a wrench.
This would work like the washer and nut welded to the broken head stud trick.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top