Oil Pan threads for drain plug

hale1776

hale1776

Senior Member
Was changing oil in my 30 coupe when turning the drain plug it would rotate slowly and with great resistance but no progress. I removed pan today there is a collar with the female threads that appeared to be silver soldered to pan, turning head of bolt turns everything, I remelted solder with torch no luck. Two questions really first any ideas and second as long as I have the pan off is there some "might as wells" that I should do now? My rear main does leak. Steve
 
If it doesn't work with brazing, then the threads must be stripped. While the pan is off have a look at the sides of the bearings for signs of babbit squishing out.
 
Took oil pan to a shop, there going spot weld on inside, then remove plug and run bead around outside should never come off or leak. I have read all the books on bearings, plastic gauge, shims but I have never done it nore have I seen someone else do it. I do still have oil pipe going to rear main, should I try clean it....thanks
 
If you've had not issues with rear main leak, I would run a fat pipe cleaner up until you can't push any more - and then remove it and call it a day.

Joe K
 
I had a quick lube strip my 86' Diesel VW Golf drain plug... In the end, I got a replacement pan from a junk yard.... Good luck with your pan.
 
I just wanted to change the oil! Holy crap the "might as wells" are killing me. Sent away for new set oil pan bolts and splash pan bolts to get rid of the cabbage patch collection I had holding it on. Should I pull caps and check bearings?
 
"Should I pull caps and check bearings?" "my rear main does leak"

We don't know how bad your rear main is leaking or how many miles on your engine since clearances were checked. If oil leak is an occasional drip I personally wouldn't be to concerned but if oil leak is excessive I would be inclined to go ahead and check the clearances while I had the pan off.

Not necessarily suggesting you do that, just telling you what I would do.
 
The center main is typically what fails first.
If the pan is down, and it has been 10K miles since mains were checked, and you are comfortable doing it, then yes at least check the center. If that is OK I am not sure I would check the others, but it really doesn't take that much effort to check'em all.

I have nearly 10K on mine and will check them this "winter"
 
Pan back from welder just a few pits around drain which I filled with JB Weld in a skim coat around drain....next clean ans paint.
 
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The "bung" that the drain plug screws into is rolled into the pan, meaning that there is no mechanical connection. Over time this "bung" can and sometimes looses its tightness, allowing the drain plug to just turn and not loosen. Since the pan is down , take it to someone that has the capability to silver solder the "bung" to the pan. I have done two and the biggest issue is the degreasing of the lip under the "bung", it takes some work but you won't regret it.
 
Woodie thanks that is the clearest explanation of what happened so far...it had been silvered soldered before and remelting did not "grab" again.... probably as you said oil inside seam. It is now welded to the pan and will have great difficulty turning in the future.
Such a little thing has caused a giant headache but pan now freshly painted and looking overdressed goes back on......
 
tried putting pan on today, Driver side all bolts started but carb side 1/2 inch to seat and blocked solid. Expect oil pump. What a nightmare.
 
No plug is out and I used an awl and a wood block wedge to hold pump in proper spot. Is it possible that hole does not go all the way through to the pan? Mine had nothing but a plug in it and I have no idea what its purpose is. The pump dropped down just enough for alignment pin to come out and move one way or the other. Like if I knew which way I could slide a putty knife in and tap it till it went in the hole again.
Rain today car is outside so taking the day off....Steve
 
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