I recently pulled the oil pan on my 39 Ford sedan with a stock 221 CID engine using Fordbarn advice and found the attached. About 1/2 inch of sludge in the bottom; I think the pickup screen was so clogged hardly any oil was being drawn into oil pump. Engine was otherwise clean--I guess all the ash and contaniments had settled to the sump over the years. Engine now has about 60 pounds at cold idle, 5 pounds at hot idle, and around 20 pounds at road speed. I think this is fair for an older engine with the original (pre 8BA style) oil pump.
oil pan sludge removal
- Thread starter JHFORD51
- Start date
alanwoodieman
Well-known member
what weight oil are you using? we use 20W50 Kendal in about 10 engines around here and all of us like the performance. do you run an oil filter? changing oil every 1000 miles? do many short trips?
Joe Immler
Well-known member
alanwoodie I use 20-50 in my '41 and am very pleased. I generally put about 1000 miles and a bit more. Is it OK to change once a year before I put it away, say 1100 or 1200 mi.?
Or should I change it at 1000 mi. on the dot?
Or should I change it at 1000 mi. on the dot?
19Fordy
Well-known member
Not to "steal your thread' but a couple of hundred miles will make no difference.
Add some gas stabilizer too along with moth balls for the interior and such to deter critters. If possible, it would be best if you could start your car up at least once a week during storage.
Add some gas stabilizer too along with moth balls for the interior and such to deter critters. If possible, it would be best if you could start your car up at least once a week during storage.
Joe Immler
Well-known member
19Fordy. Thanks. I do use mothballs and start the car on the first of the new month.
supereal
Well-known member
Most of the oil pan sludge was due to the use of non detergent oil. Today's oils have additives to keep the contaminants in suspension. Years ago, we had to scoop out the gobs of "black jello" when the pan was dropped. Some oil pans, such as the Ford tractors, had a large removable port in the bottom of the pan to allow access to deposits. It came in handy, as the engine formed the frame of the tractor, and the oil pan couldn't be dropped without splitting the machine. Thankfully, non detergent oil is now history!
tubman
Well-known member
Unfortunately, this is quite true. It amazes me that, even in recent times, how many users on these forums recommend the use on non-detergent oil, just because these cars are old.
tubman
Well-known member
In your case, detergent oil would be more beneficial. It has components that pick up impurities and keeps them in suspension, rather than allowing them to settle out as the aforementioned sludge. The key to running an engine without an oil filter is frequent oil changes, not non-detergent oil!
This was a car I picked up last year. I feel confident we have driven it more and for longer periods of time than it has run in quite a few years. I have good luck with both 15W-40 and straight 30W.
Agree that short drives, lots of sitting, and no additives to keep trash/ash in suspension is the cause-exaggerated by the poor crankcase breathing ability of the engine design.
Agree that short drives, lots of sitting, and no additives to keep trash/ash in suspension is the cause-exaggerated by the poor crankcase breathing ability of the engine design.