Would like to replace a leaking oil pan gasket. The engine is in the car and I have a couple of questions. Have oil pump retaining tool for use in holding pump in place. Is there enough room to remove the pan with the pump being held in place with this tool. This is a 1930 coupe and I would like to drop the pan and replace the gasket with minimal effort. I also have the helper pins to hold the pan in place while installing the bolts. As I recall I have a modern front pan seal and not a rope seal. One more thing, I have a new oil return tube and remember mine was there but loose. Would JB Weld be the way to secure the new tube.
oil pan removal
- Thread starter TMarsh
- Start date
Wolfman Jack
Junior Member
I have a 29 Fordor and the pan clears when the pump is pinned in place.
As for the JB Weld, I would think it would work but cant say for sure.
Good Luck
PS Minimal Effort <> Easy
As for the JB Weld, I would think it would work but cant say for sure.
Good Luck
PS Minimal Effort <> Easy
Gary WA
Well-known member
The tube should be threaded?
I shudder to think of introducing JB Weld into the oil circulation. If the cap is stripped then remove it and put in a proper insert. If it's just a matter of the tube won't seat in the proper position, perhaps there's blue (removable) Locktite in your future.
Will N
Well-known member
A helpful hint in removing and installing the pan is to turn the front wheels all the way to one side. This moves the tie rod forward and it's easier to maneuver the front of the pan into place. And be sparing with the JB weld- just a little to coat the threads. Be careful not to block the hole, clean off any excess that squeezes out. You wouldn't want it breaking off and falling into the oil pan.
stevemclark
Senior Member
Re: oil pan removal--$5000 mistake with oil pump TOOL
When using this tool (in red above) a few things to know are:
1. The hole where the plug goes is NOT a straight thread, it is a tapered pipe thread. The reason for tapered threads is that the plug does not go in too far and blocks oil flow. See #2 below.
Find the correct plug with tapered pipe thread to plug hole, do not use a standard bolt.
People jam a regular thread bolt into the hole destroying the pipe thread. If bolt is threaded in too far it BLOCKS the oil flow into valve chamber. The result is inadequate oil flow to main bearings and cam bearings. A $4000 to $5000 mistake!
2. DO NOT leave tool installed when finished. If this is done the end of the bolt BLOCKS the passage of oil to the valve chamber.
Look at the top end of oil pump. There are one or two "slots" machined into opposite sides of the shaft HOUSING. The purpose is to allow oil into valve chamber.
There are several versions of pumps some have one slot, others have two slots.
If your pump has one "slot" then most of oil is blocked. IF two slots then 1/2 of oil is blocked.
About the pipe IN rear main cap:
1. There are two pipe sizes 5/16ths and 3/8ths. It is nice to have both in hand before removing the oil pan!
2. Gas welding / brazing the tube to hold it in place is a bad choice. Babbitt in main cap can be melted if too much heat is used.
Electric welding is less likely to melt the Babbitt. Spot welding is better to prevent heat build up.
When using this tool (in red above) a few things to know are:
1. The hole where the plug goes is NOT a straight thread, it is a tapered pipe thread. The reason for tapered threads is that the plug does not go in too far and blocks oil flow. See #2 below.
Find the correct plug with tapered pipe thread to plug hole, do not use a standard bolt.
People jam a regular thread bolt into the hole destroying the pipe thread. If bolt is threaded in too far it BLOCKS the oil flow into valve chamber. The result is inadequate oil flow to main bearings and cam bearings. A $4000 to $5000 mistake!
2. DO NOT leave tool installed when finished. If this is done the end of the bolt BLOCKS the passage of oil to the valve chamber.
Look at the top end of oil pump. There are one or two "slots" machined into opposite sides of the shaft HOUSING. The purpose is to allow oil into valve chamber.
There are several versions of pumps some have one slot, others have two slots.
If your pump has one "slot" then most of oil is blocked. IF two slots then 1/2 of oil is blocked.
About the pipe IN rear main cap:
1. There are two pipe sizes 5/16ths and 3/8ths. It is nice to have both in hand before removing the oil pan!
2. Gas welding / brazing the tube to hold it in place is a bad choice. Babbitt in main cap can be melted if too much heat is used.
Electric welding is less likely to melt the Babbitt. Spot welding is better to prevent heat build up.
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IIRC you are supposed to bed the front seal into the pan and the timing cover with RTV or Permatex. If there is any roughness or pitting on the crank pulley sealing surface I suspect that the modern seal would be less tolerant than rope seal.
katy
Well-known member
That could make it interesting trying to remove the pan while it's still in the car.