Oil Pan Question?

GOSFAST

GOSFAST

Well-known member
Need more help here, looking for members running the pan in the photo below, I believe it's a truck pan??

Looking for opinions on whether or not that "plate" is prone to leaking over time?? Don't care for the "double" gasket deal and 7 bolts on a 24" circumference?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If this were my own personal build I would simply weld a new piece of 7.000" round steel plate on there and install a typical Chevrolet bung inside and a use a conventional Chev plug. I'm aware of the purpose behind the removable plate but nowadays it would be totally useless! This is for a member up here!
 

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If it hasn´t been hit and dented badly they work just fine.
Gaskets and a bit of sealant if you really want belts and suspenders...
 
Gary, Your idea of removing that big round plate is the best unless the customer desires the OEM pan.
 
If you don't like it, use a different pan, and save that one for someone who is looking for one. If I was doing a truck restoration I'd want to use the correct pan.
 
Stock pans are usually available at swap meets or in the classifieds here on the Barn or over on the HAMB. Truck pans on good shape on the other hand are more difficult to find and as such command more money. I've had and sold several of both. One of the truck pans went to Australia. If it was me I locate a stock pan and sell the truck pan instead of welding on a plate but that's JMO.
 
I have found over time even with the best sealer theres going to be some leakage. Another problem with the pan has to do with using a high volume oil pump which some prefer using. The relief in the pan for the pump is not tall enough to clear the longer HV pump.
Ronnieroadster
 
Gary, it’s apparent that you’re working with a 49-53 late style block. The reasons for using this truck oil pan would be because
A) you’re putting the motor together for a 48-52 Ford truck.....or
B) you’re putting it together for a customer who wants to install it in an earlier chassis and the rear sump is needed to clear the steering components.

If it’s A (a truck) you’ll want to stay with that pan. If it’s B and you need a rear sump for clearance issues, you only have two possible pans to work with: this truck pan or a 49-51 Mercury oil pan which also has the rear sump. The problem with using the Merc pan is that you’ll also need the Mercury oil pump pickup tube to match it, and those are tough to find.

If a rear sump pan is NOT needed for this job, use either of the 49-53 Ford passenger car pans with the center sump, and the matching pickup tube.

The clean out plate on those truck pans get dinged up over time, and may need some hammer and dolly work to improve the fit. I don’t think Ford used a gasket on the inside....only on the outside between the cover plate and the pan.
 
Looks like it’s already been modified for a bigger front main cap, so why not modify for drain plug?
 
It appears the Truck brace that bolts to the clutch cover has been removed? So I assume this is for (B) in Mac's post?

These are known leakers on trucks, but using a bead of Right Stuff sealer inside and outside, and around each stud on the inside, will reduce leakage substantially, if not completely. With modern oils there is really no purpose to the plate.
 
Hi Ralph, good eye!!

This pan already has some hours into it due to the customer wanting all 3 main stud straps, the front was the only real issue, the rear was minor due only to the pump/pick up.

I want to thank all that responded and expand some on why we go to the lengths we do sometimes!

One of units I'm doing is from Fla., the other from N.J. Both these customers trusted us enough to give us these builds. Joe from N.J. has dealt with us in the past, he knows what were about, different with the Fla build.

I NEVER feel comfortable sending a unit out of here when I know there MAY be a chance of an oil leak due to any parts we're using regardless of who supplied them OR if they could be modified some to work past the original design. This is what inspired me to "fix" that dipstick mounting bracket which really turned out to be one excellent modification. This is my take on that pan bottom also, seeing a potential issue later, so we will speak with Joe and any modification will be entirely his decision. So far he's been an excellent "listener".

Looking a lot closer at all these Flathead pans I'm seriously considering installing some baffling for better oil control, we'll decide more about this before I'm finished here!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. To some of the above items posted, I have no issue with the OEM drain plug, Joe did ask me to remove the rear brace, no problem. Good call also, the spot-welds were rusting through from time. To "Mac" above, good call also on the usage for the build, it's for an "old-fashioned" type street rod. With respect to the oil pickup "matching" the pan, that's a non-issue here, we would simply make our own pick-up and tube. Also Joe sent a couple gaskets for that bottom, not sure if all would be needed. If we do the modification (weld it up) it won't matter, no gaskets at all and a "normal" size drain plug, 9/16" wrench To "Ross" above, we don't want to "reduce leakage substantially", I want absolutely NO leak from that area, not even a remote chance!. Thanks again to all who responded. Here's a shot of the pan (as it still is) and the straps in place.
 

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Gary, we run one of those pans on our dragster,never leaked ,we just use the gasket and some 515 ,no drama
Can you shoot me a pic of your dipstick mod.
Thanks Lawrie in cool 28C
 
Lawrie said:
Gary, we run one of those pans on our dragster,never leaked ,we just use the gasket and some 515 ,no drama
Can you shoot me a pic of your dipstick mod.
Thanks Lawrie in cool 28C
Click to expand...

Hi Lawrie, check out the link below here, post #4 has photo of the dipstick mount fix.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262929&highlight=dipstick+mod

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I have a couple kits left, sold a few already. Does require minor welding with the pan removed! After it's done you can simply remove the mounting plate if necessary w/o removing the pan.
 
The modern Mercedes engine just use sealer, no gaskets, "right stuff" is used for tin oil pan to not machined aluminum--- they don't even tap bolt holes anymore, the bolt cuts them on the way in, once it cures there's barely a need for bolts
 
Here's a couple shots of the pieces we've put together to eliminate that bottom plate!

There will be no way any oil will leak from that area, not a remote chance! It will end up with a Chevy drain plug (9/16" wrench size) and plastic or copper gasket. This isn't a "resto" so the "look" is not in play.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Just waiting for my customer (Joe) to contact me and OK the procedure. When I get the nod we'll weld it all up.
 

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GOSFAST said:
Here's a couple shots of the pieces we've put together to eliminate that bottom plate!

There will be no way any oil will leak from that area, not a remote chance! It will end up with a Chevy drain plug (9/16" wrench size) and plastic or copper gasket. This isn't a "resto" so the "look" is not in play.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Just waiting for my customer (Joe) to contact me and OK the procedure. When I get the nod we'll weld it all up.
Click to expand...

Weld it up! This is not going a show car, so I'm not concerned about the correctness. I need this pan to clear the steering linkage.
As always, thanks to Gary!!
 
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