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Guest
Guest
can the oil pan be removed without a major job in my 35 sedan.
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where is it leaking? front or back of pan? in the middle?
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John-
I probably have pulled a dozen plus oil pans on various '35s and '36 Fords. While doing this I have tried several different approaches but they all had one thing in common - it is a MAJOR undertaking! It does help if you have a '37-'40 wishbone under the front end. The latter wishbone has a wider stance which makes oil pan removal somewhat easier. Regardless, I would seriously consider a plan "B" before I would jump in and start pulling the pan.
I guess, I would start by asking myself, just how annoying is this "oil leak?"
Tom
I probably have pulled a dozen plus oil pans on various '35s and '36 Fords. While doing this I have tried several different approaches but they all had one thing in common - it is a MAJOR undertaking! It does help if you have a '37-'40 wishbone under the front end. The latter wishbone has a wider stance which makes oil pan removal somewhat easier. Regardless, I would seriously consider a plan "B" before I would jump in and start pulling the pan.
I guess, I would start by asking myself, just how annoying is this "oil leak?"
Tom
G
Guest
Guest
Re: oil pan leak-slight/ FHF,Tom
tom how far would i have to drop pan to install modern crankshaft seal on 36 with a leak.in the car?
tom how far would i have to drop pan to install modern crankshaft seal on 36 with a leak.in the car?
G
Guest
Guest
Re: oil pan leak-slight/ FHF,Tom
Ken-
I have never done it that way (install the new-type oil seal) but it "probably" could be done. To get the front or nose of the pan to clear the front crank gear you need to jack-up the front of the engine about 3"-4". But, before you jack-up the engine, pull the distributor and remove the crank pulley. Now the "work" starts.
As you probably know, to lift the engine you need to remove the fuel pump and stand, loosen the exhaust manifolds, remove the lower radiator hoses, unloosen the upper hoses, remove the air filter, remove the cross-over pipe, remove the fan and the cam cover, remove the pan bolts and probably some other things I forgot to mention.
I would think, if everything goes right, you should have about 2 inches between the front of the oil pan and the front of the crankshaft. That should be enough to slide the seal on. If you don't have enough room you may be hung-up with a crank throw. Just spin the crankshaft slightly and you should be in business.
One disadvantage I see to this approach is the inability to drill a hole on the inside of the seal channel to provide an oil drain if any oil works its way around the seal. This is something I do and yes, I do know many others who have made this seal swap and did not add a drain hole and have not experienced any problems. I guess I want to cover all possible potentialities since so much work is involved.
If you try it this way and it works, let us all know what "quirks" you came across.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Ken-
I have never done it that way (install the new-type oil seal) but it "probably" could be done. To get the front or nose of the pan to clear the front crank gear you need to jack-up the front of the engine about 3"-4". But, before you jack-up the engine, pull the distributor and remove the crank pulley. Now the "work" starts.
As you probably know, to lift the engine you need to remove the fuel pump and stand, loosen the exhaust manifolds, remove the lower radiator hoses, unloosen the upper hoses, remove the air filter, remove the cross-over pipe, remove the fan and the cam cover, remove the pan bolts and probably some other things I forgot to mention.
I would think, if everything goes right, you should have about 2 inches between the front of the oil pan and the front of the crankshaft. That should be enough to slide the seal on. If you don't have enough room you may be hung-up with a crank throw. Just spin the crankshaft slightly and you should be in business.
One disadvantage I see to this approach is the inability to drill a hole on the inside of the seal channel to provide an oil drain if any oil works its way around the seal. This is something I do and yes, I do know many others who have made this seal swap and did not add a drain hole and have not experienced any problems. I guess I want to cover all possible potentialities since so much work is involved.
If you try it this way and it works, let us all know what "quirks" you came across.
Hope this helps.
Tom
G
Guest
Guest
Re: oil pan leak-slight/ FHF,Tom
i think ill live with it for a while. thanks tom. ken ct.
i think ill live with it for a while. thanks tom. ken ct.